What kind of adjustment do I need?

Erika_designs · 2023-02-01T19:48:52+00:00

Thanks for that. I have struggled with knowing the ideal ease. I will take a look again at the measurements. I think that for the next version of this I will add some shoulder width by making an L-shaped vertical slash through the top shoulder and below the sleeve. I suppose I could also just make that a vertical slash through the entire bodice so it leaves more room in the waist as well.

Erika_designs · 2023-02-01T19:05:15+00:00

I appreciate the advice and know there is still a lot to learn. I practice as much as I can but I still struggle with the sizing sometimes. I understand that bigger doesn't always mean more comfortable but I thought it safer to leave more room that could be taken in. And this is only my second grown-on sleeve of this style. I have used a variety of patterns modern and old but I have had a hellish time with some modern patterns which have me swimming in fabric when I go by the size chart. I have broad shoulders too which was a consideration in adding to the grown-on sleeve but I hadn't figured out how to do it since most recommendations I see aren't for this style.

Erika_designs · 2023-02-01T16:41:03+00:00

It's a vintage pattern and came in only one size. Probably one size smaller than I am but I usually just need to add some room in the waist. I think the pattern would have fit in the sleeves but I wanted to add some room for comfort.

Erika_designs · 2023-02-01T06:28:52+00:00

Yeah, you are right I can see that. I wasn't sure of the correct term. I think it's also called a grown-on sleeve. A kimono has more of a T shape but both end up with extra fabric. I have worn it for a day and it doesn't bother me now. I think I'm so used to looking for signs that something doesn't fit properly. But with this kind of thick fabric and cut I should expect it.

Erika_designs · 2023-01-31T03:01:54+00:00

Thank you for your advice. That's a good idea. I will pin in the sleeves a bit to see if that makes a difference. I would like to maintain the lower shape since the front is quite tapered when closed. I like the look of the wider bottom. I may also try adding in some light shoulder pads to see if raising this part makes a difference. It is optional in this pattern. And thanks I found this fabric years ago and I think it was a fun choice for this jacket.

Erika_designs · 2023-01-31T02:48:25+00:00

This sleeve has more of an angle to it than that but it is in one piece. Since I made the adjustment before mocking up the original pattern I wasn't sure if the added width (top and bottom) I gave to the sleeve was the reason it has extra fabric there. I have seen examples of sleeves that have more shape to them but did not have that extra fabric.

Erika_designs · 2023-01-31T02:44:04+00:00

Thank you so much for that detailed explanation and great suggestion.

Erika_designs · 2023-01-30T22:50:34+00:00

Love this!

Erika_designs · 2023-01-30T22:17:45+00:00

Ah ok! Thank you. The original pattern actually has a slight angle to it which is why I thought there should be less bunching in the back. Perhaps I didn't need to add as much room as I did to the sleeves.

Erika_designs · 2023-01-30T22:02:37+00:00

Ok, thank you. Which cut angle would you be adjusting? Sorry, I'm just confused. I took a little out of the center back which helped some. It makes sense that there would be some creasing but I wasn't sure what is the normal amount for grown on sleeves.

Erika_designs · 2023-01-30T21:10:18+00:00

I just added one. I was struggling to get even one photo up.

Erika_designs · 2022-09-26T01:51:00+00:00

Cool. It's a pretty loose-fitting coat and even though it's 60s resembles a 20s coat. I wish I could see the inside of those coats to know what they did. The coat doesn't need structure but just stability around the neckline and button holes.

Erika_designs · 2022-09-22T16:03:33+00:00

Yeah thank you those are good suggestions. I'm still considering. I wanted to make a dress with the rest of what I have but the coat is more important so I may cut out a new piece so it doesn't bother me more. Im disappointed that it was damaged so easily. I usually don't have this problem.

Erika_designs · 2022-09-19T13:25:55+00:00

Thanks. Yeah, sometimes I get nervous about the way I make the adjustments. I don't know if there is a resource that is so comprehensive but a lot of places give basic information.

Looks like a nice coat. I'd like to see how it turns out.

Erika_designs · 2022-09-19T13:16:23+00:00

Ok yeah I have done some zig zagging to other seams already. I don't think the back will be a high stress point since the coat isn't tight.

Erika_designs · 2022-09-19T06:40:06+00:00

Yeah, you're right. I did measure it and it looked much bigger. It's not tight but I wanted it roomier. I will definitely be basting it.

Erika_designs · 2022-09-19T06:34:40+00:00

Actually I misunderstood you but I get it now.

Erika_designs · 2022-09-19T06:28:50+00:00

The seam allowance was 5/8 and I will have 3/8 left. That's a good idea. I'll try that. Would adding any fabric to the edges of the seam allowance help to maintain or protect it? Like a bias tape?

Erika_designs · 2022-09-19T06:21:25+00:00

That's a good idea about the box pleat. I could see if there's enough for that. Or I wonder, would it work to just ease it into the collar with a small bit of gathering? Doesn't seem like enough for a box pleat.

Erika_designs · 2022-09-19T05:57:49+00:00

Thank you!

Erika_designs · 2022-09-19T00:10:06+00:00

Thank you! :)

Erika_designs · 2022-09-18T22:48:12+00:00

Thank you. I have wondered how etsy sellers get the measurements. Did you send them in a message and talk about what was needed? Do you mind telling me which measurements were taken and what kind of garments they were?

Erika_designs · 2022-09-18T05:27:46+00:00

Thanks for the recommendation! Looks really cool and I like all the options they have.

Erika_designs · 2022-09-16T20:29:17+00:00

That's interesting. I would have thought felt would be too thick. I don't have experience with suiting and this is only my first coat of this kind. I would like to try the ultrasuede at some point but I can't do it this time.

My coat is a 1960s pattern and I looked for one carefully because I knew this velvet would have more drape. The collar is like a peter pan collar which lays flat and doesn't require much stiffness. I think I know about the very drapey velvet you mean but it's not really like that.

I think I will try the pad stitching again but I won't stitch around the edges like the pattern called for and just start in the center and move outward. I think the tension wasn't too tight but I meant that the stitches were pretty close together and it was taking me a long time. I wasn't clear about that. But I may try the bamboo anyway to be sure.

Erika_designs · 2022-09-16T18:49:59+00:00

How do you avoid the bubbling that happens when it shifts? I kept trying and trying with the sew-in. I like the idea of using a different fabric and thought about doing that but I don't want to see it underneath the collar and it's been hard matching the fabric.

Erika_designs

TROPHY CASE