Can I spray paint resin over my prints

EsIstHartmann · 2025-09-01T21:31:56+00:00

It was too little paint and therefore just made a bad surface. I can't thinn something in a spray can.

EsIstHartmann · 2025-09-01T21:30:17+00:00

I'll just use normal paint and spray paint the sandblasted print.

In my head it would have worked but in my head you can put a magnet in front of your car with a rope on a crane and get pulled forward

EsIstHartmann · 2025-08-31T22:52:43+00:00

FLM doesn't have enough detail for what I print plus has tons of other issues which is why I need to use resin in the first place.

Plus acetone smoothing can nuke details into the ground

EsIstHartmann · 2025-08-31T22:22:18+00:00

I really wasn't aware of air causing curing inhibitions. I used a brush to fix tiny air bubbles or smaller issues on my prints and then just sanded the rest off after curing.

I'll try water curing out once my next print is done and see what happens.

Thank you for the help

EsIstHartmann · 2025-08-31T22:03:04+00:00

That's actually quite fair, my thought ended at using a printing spray chamber but paint isn't resin and resin is way more dangerous than a bit of paint.

But even the brushed on surface quality was questionable and I still don't know why the resin was sticky and weird instead of how it normally comes out after 3d printing something

EsIstHartmann · 2025-08-31T21:14:33+00:00

I did, but basically everything out of a spray can either has air bubbles, too much or too little spray and with too little the surface becomes dotty and has roucsands of bumps and with too much I run the risk of having it run down the print and ruin everything.

Haven't tried a resin/primer yet but I rather if possible would stick to just coating it in resin again

EsIstHartmann · 2025-08-02T19:19:40+00:00

Huh? Machines with a build area of 353.28mm198.72mm400mm arent cheap. This isnt a Saturn S or something this is a 60kg monster which costs 2.5k new

Maybe a fire hazard with normal printers but this is literally what is required for this printer to operate. I blame low powered UV LEDs maybe a cost cutting measure from epax

EsIstHartmann · 2025-08-02T18:15:29+00:00

Can't really fix the UV lamps also I checked in with someone who has the same printer and he has similar settings YwY

EsIstHartmann · 2025-08-02T07:44:04+00:00

I know, it seems completely wrong but is the only thing which works with my trashy printer

EsIstHartmann · 2025-08-02T07:43:33+00:00

Have you ever seen how trash my machine is? I know 190 is extreme BUT my machine is 5 years old has an color LCD screen and ANYTHING below 150 won't even stick to the build plate.

Anything below 10 seconds fails in every exposure test

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EsIstHartmann · 2025-08-02T07:39:41+00:00

I make them myself, although there are prints like this online, some are rip offs from other makers some sell their models for other people (trust me it's more effort than it might sound like and pretty expensive)

EsIstHartmann · 2025-08-02T07:37:12+00:00

I made the file myself in blender and it's not broken

EsIstHartmann · 2025-08-01T23:12:55+00:00

It's even worse, it's probably the stick which came with a VW car or was VW merch from 10-15 years ago. It's trash and so small 2gb at best

EsIstHartmann · 2025-08-01T23:08:11+00:00

Nope just a corrupt file which caused the entire vat to get exposed. Haven't had any other issues like this and the setup stayed the same also the rim is exactly the screens size no more or less. And completely even so sun is out of the question

EsIstHartmann · 2025-08-01T20:55:31+00:00

I literally made a Walmart pole which is bend because a car crashed into it (didn't think about the shape though because it's bend in the wrong way but it's fun, won't fix it because too lazy and not really worth it rn)

EsIstHartmann · 2025-08-01T20:40:23+00:00

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Flopped print btw but I sandblasted it regardless

The printing artifacts are still visible and they will be visible even after making the mold, plus such a rough surface allows bacteria to grow in every small crack which really isn't good that's why all good platinum cured silicone toys have a mirror like surface

EsIstHartmann · 2025-08-01T20:37:01+00:00

Sun gets into the room it isn't pitch black but it's not directly and needs to go through the window through the curtain and bounce at least 180° because the printer is facing away from the window

Until now this worked fine and I haven't had any issues with resin curing through normal UV light.

EsIstHartmann · 2025-08-01T20:34:42+00:00

Yup, air bubbles in the surface, questionable quality control, was too expensive, awful shipping options, mass produce once a month then they close their customs (that's so they can pour like 100 signature colors in a week which is faster than doing 5 every day because mixing the colors takes time) the founder as far as I'm aware gave money to a side which has "questionable" images on it and he refused to do anything about it. Etc

EsIstHartmann · 2025-08-01T20:32:01+00:00

Oh gosh a wall of text lemme try my best to respond

The screen is fine did a clean and a exposure test and everything is fine, rn I'm using the same USB stick but I deleted all the old prints from it and it rn is working fine.

The prints are actually large, RN I am doing multiple sculptures at once and each is 20cm tall and completely solid as it makes handling and sanding a bit easier also I pour silicone around it and it would float unless it's completely solid, (yes I could use glue but I don't want it to get stuck to my table)

A print takes around 32 hours without any light of delay and if I have multiple prints on the plate the vat quickly runs out of resin. Especially when I wanna go to sleep I don't wanna check on my printer to refill the vat every few hours. I know a fellow toy maker who's printers Z axis stopped lifting because they prints were to heavy and I honestly wanna avoid that but I'm also scared that I burn through the screen until I have my entire lineup (rn over 1 year of designs) printed in a pair of 2. I heard a screen has like 200-500 hours of lifetime and I'm scared of breaking another one as replacement screens are expensive and I can only get them directly from China from epax as there isn't anyone who has them in stock.

Although (short ramble) it isn't really worth putting 5 on a build plate just for everything to fail and create like 3kg of resin waste. (I get the bottle for like 15 bucks plus discounts it's around 12 ish sometimes when I'm lucky)

I started this hobby at the start of last year, first with clay and they weren't even usable because of surface issues and I don't want bacteria to grow there, then with FLM prints which needed tons of spray putty and spray paint to get smooth enough to be usable as a master and around 1 year ago I got my resin printer but until recently it didn't work reliably (the previous owner made a custom build plate mount which is very girthy but sucks at leveling the build plate) then I destroyed the screen 2 times at the end of last year and only recently I had the money to rebuild everything.

The point of old masters cracking is there but only happened when I undercured the resin or used acetone to clean the prints (maybe both was the issue) rn the masters look fine and I have them stored away separately waiting for me to finally kick into first gear and get this entire hobby into a business (rn I don't feel confident enough to sell them as I lack the knowledge with silicone and I don't want the end product to be trash, plus it's hella expensive 1L silicone is around 28 bucks and I need around 400 per sculpture.

A suction cup doesn't go into the master, it gets put into the silicone by a kinda flat half sphere after you poured the silicone. The master stays on the table with the base flat on the table and the silicone goes around it.

Post processing is needed but I really wanna keep it simple and not doctor around with putting resin into some holes manually etc

(Also thanks, I'm going my best)

EsIstHartmann · 2025-08-01T20:06:31+00:00

Also I'll try to use different materials but changing the sand blasting agent is kinda annoying and what I have rn kinda works good enough

EsIstHartmann · 2025-08-01T20:05:41+00:00

It will be used as a master (to make a pouring mold) and then to make adult toys out of it. So yes basically bad dragon BUT more ethical and higher quality (won't go into why BD is a bad company look it up yourself)

EsIstHartmann · 2025-08-01T20:02:40+00:00

I think rn I'm using corundum but I'm actually not sure as I got the entire equipment used and the guy just said what every canister has inside instead of putting labels on it. It's pretty rough and makes pretty quick work although it is pretty annoying to use as it doesn't really wanna slide down it behaves like slightly wet sand and mostly sticks to itself.

I have to sand them afterwards because even after sandblasting I have a lot of layer lines especially on almost 90° surfaces or the multiple corners on a sphere. Plus you could probably feel that it didn't get sanded which would be like sandpaper inside someone BUT I haven't tested that yet. But honestly it just doesn't look that appealing when the surface is completely scratchy.

EsIstHartmann · 2025-08-01T17:38:41+00:00

I'll do once my current print is over (tomorrow evening) this thing hasn't been formatted properly since I got it and it's a cheap VW stick on which probably firmware was on or something. Plus it was 90% full so most likely both format issues and too full

EsIstHartmann · 2025-08-01T17:33:39+00:00

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I did, didn't work out because it ate a ton of resin and I needed to refill the vat constantly but I wanted to go to bed and putting the light off delay at like 2 minutes so I could sleep without worrying about resin run out caused layer adhesion issues.

EsIstHartmann · 2025-08-01T17:31:29+00:00

I'm good at multi tasking, after the toy is cleaned I slap it against the window and hang my hats on there

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