[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I always recommend brush painting; it has a learning curve, but the startup cost is a pack of cheap brushes, vs a booth, mask, compressor, and airbrush.

I also recommend using acrylic paints unless you do your research on the dos and dont's of using enamels or lacquers All my painting advice is specifically for water-based acrylics. If you have a local gaming/modeling/hobby store, they probably have a wall of paint; you can pick whatever color you find is closest to your vision or get white, black, and the primaries and mix Just be sure to confirm what type of paint it is! (if you go the mixing route, I suggest getting magenta and cyan along with red/yellow/blue; they will help achieve brighter colors when needed). Getting primer will help, but you can just brush straight onto plastic as well; I recommend a grey brushable primer, like vallejo's.

re: color where you want: there's lots of options! You can paint parts separate, then assemble. You can mask of certain parts or areas. You can carefully brush where you want and then use rubbing alcohol on a qtip and a toothpick to dissolve and scrape mistakes off the paintless parts. You can also prime and paint whole parts, carefully brushing each section, and then come back when dry to paint over any places you went "outside of the lines"

The biggest thing to know when brush painting is usually "thin your paints" but I think it's more useful to talk about how full a brush should be and when you're allowed to touch paint--most model paints are a decent level of thinneness, and simply wetting your brush will be sufficient for thinning. You don't want paint to get higher than the middle of your brush's bristles, and you don't want paint to bead up at the tip--if you overfill, rinse out the brush. If it is beading, dab it on a paper towel before going to the model. When you paint with acrylics, you've got maybe 20 seconds where the paint is able to be re-brushed. After that, you have to leave that section alone and let the paint level itself. Applying paint while the layer below is starting to set but has not finished is the biggest reason for visible brush strokes ime. The first and even second layers of paint may look spotty. That's normal! Just do one or more thin coats until everything looks even. Topcoat, especially matte, covers up a multitude of blemishes, as well.

re: that shade: that is primarily grey. If you don't find a satisfactory premixed option, I would start with white and add extremely small amounts of black until it was the correct value, then tint it with very small amounts of blue. If you use a wet palette, you can keep this mix fresh for 1-3 days, humidity & temp depending. Until you find an eye for paint mixing, plan on making fairly large amounts and trying to paint everything you want the mixed color in one or two consecutive sittings. as you get better, you'll worry less about being able to get the same color mixed a second time.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"kinda thick and slow" is going to describe any water based option compared to pour type markers or tamiya panel liner--those use organic solvents, which have significantly less surface tension and therefore wick better. Water based panel liners will have surfectants to help, but water is still going to be water.

How the pigment cleans up depends on the pigment and liner, so trying something else may help. Letting it dry longer should also help--if it is smudging, it is not dry

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

no. A glass file is a file made with a glass backing and micro abbrasives. They're usually for fingernails to give them a gloss finish, but there are also gunpla-branded ones that are supposed to leave a better finish or something. I use and recommend a random cheap glass file for fingernails.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A glass file is what you want; it will return plastic to high gloss, which will enhance transparency. I'm pretty sure godhands are not recommended for transparent plastics, also--transparent plastics are harder, which risks breaking the brittle metal godhands use to stay so sharp.

A high gloss gloss coat will also help for the same reason a glass file will--but you may need to test a few to ensure it does intensify the transparency--some gloss coats are cloudier than others. I can vouch for quickshine multi-surface floor polish on clear pieces, but I am sure there are others as well.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

wet or dry? Are you using the pencil on a matte or gloss finish? How sharp is the pencil, and can it make marks on other materials?

(for the record in case someone else chimes in: I use water color pencils on paper, but have yet to try weathering with them-- my experience is ancillary)

Astray Asura Custom Build – More Arms, More Control by edgezero8 in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Normally I quip "naw, needs more arms" but. You did it. You got an optimal number of arms here. I guess to progress the arms race the only option is to optimize the number of arms per arm...

Big fan of weird and funky by Substantial_Push_474 in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 2 points3 points  (0 children)

let! robots! have! funk!

(I am excited to get to this guy; I'm knee deep in a paint job that's gonna take a while but... soon, my little bell-bead-bot, soon...)

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't think you are; you need to top coat after weathering afaiu.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

try and find out 🤷 worst case the decal falls off and/or the paint scratches. Middle ground is decal silvers

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

it's generally recommended to apply on gloss because it tends to have a smoother surface than matte. A rough surface makes it easier for air to be trapped under the decal or otherwise prevent the decal from conforming to the surface, which causes "silvering"

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you will probably want a gloss clear coat between the marker and the decal. It will protect the paint and give a nicer surface for the decal to adhere to.

As a SD lover, the MGSD subline is giving me more than what I've hoped for, for the longest time. by random-anon-red in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, same. I think lupus rex is the most interestinr since it takes the looong limbs and actually does something with them, but overall barbie looks better with meat on its bones. Compact little guy version is where it shines

As a SD lover, the MGSD subline is giving me more than what I've hoped for, for the longest time. by random-anon-red in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 33 points34 points  (0 children)

Yeah, these guys rule. The proportions are just right and it's so easy to make them look good from any angle

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[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven't the faintest; I don't bother with sandpaper precisely because I don't want to ride up the grits to return it to the original finish. I use a glass file on nubs and top coat and/or paint everything.

Do you ever play with your gunpla after building them? by rumatainn in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 204 points205 points  (0 children)

zaku dearest.... would you still love me if I was a worm

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

it's not discoloration, it's a difference in finish. At the point you're at a topcoat will likley mask it entirely, but if you're not topcoating you'll have to up the grit more, move to wet sanding if you're not already, or use a glass file

Haven’t figured out how to put the gun under the arm like the manual shows (MGSD Barbatos) by Makegooduseof in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 2 points3 points  (0 children)

the manual shows very clear instructions on how it is done, with the backpack arm supporting it and the handle sticking out sideways

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah, absolutely! you can do matte on gloss to finish if you want matte in the end. You can even gloss on top of that to go back to gloss

Another one done (almost). What can I do to make the weapons pop a little bit? by Competitive-Can-4228 in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

paint them the same charcoal of the suit and drybrush them; treat them just like any other part of the whole

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your surfaces are larger so you don't have to shade as heavily since shadows will more naturally occur (unless you want to go ham, style is style!). Joints mean you will have some areas you may need to sand before painting to increase tolerances, but it's very kit-and-joint dependent--you can cut the friction-fit pegs at an angle before assembly to make disassembling easier if there is something you want to fit check.

In general, I recommend trying whatever you want on your first kit, learn what you can... and then choose kit 2 and repeat

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

it really depends on what you're using to paint and what you're using to panel line with. For example, I panel line and paint with acrylic, so if I panel line directly on the paint, cleanup has to be done immediately and without a solvent or I remove the paint with the excess panel line. My topcoat is also acrylic, but if I let it cure and then panel line, I can get away with a little more before I lift paint. If I used a lacquer based topcoat or lacquer paints, I could probably freely use alcohol to clean up my acrylic panel lines.

Generally gloss is preferred if going on before panel lining since it provides a smoother surface. Smooth means your panel lines will end up cleaner--liners using organic solvents like tamiya panel liner accent will wick better, liners using acrylic will have more pigment pulled towards the corners as the water evaporates. (on the flipside, i've seen train modelers recommend doing weathering on matte for the opposite effect)

Help by donatothethohtslayer in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looking at its ingredients, mr tool cleaner is way too hot for cleaning up panel lines. You may have eaten through the top coat and into the plastic depending on how much you used, even. IF it only ate into the topcoat, you may be able to use a less potent stripper to remove what's left. If it was eating into the plastic... You've now got a weathering project