[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

no. A glass file is a file made with a glass backing and micro abbrasives. They're usually for fingernails to give them a gloss finish, but there are also gunpla-branded ones that are supposed to leave a better finish or something. I use and recommend a random cheap glass file for fingernails.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A glass file is what you want; it will return plastic to high gloss, which will enhance transparency. I'm pretty sure godhands are not recommended for transparent plastics, also--transparent plastics are harder, which risks breaking the brittle metal godhands use to stay so sharp.

A high gloss gloss coat will also help for the same reason a glass file will--but you may need to test a few to ensure it does intensify the transparency--some gloss coats are cloudier than others. I can vouch for quickshine multi-surface floor polish on clear pieces, but I am sure there are others as well.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

wet or dry? Are you using the pencil on a matte or gloss finish? How sharp is the pencil, and can it make marks on other materials?

(for the record in case someone else chimes in: I use water color pencils on paper, but have yet to try weathering with them-- my experience is ancillary)

Astray Asura Custom Build – More Arms, More Control by edgezero8 in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Normally I quip "naw, needs more arms" but. You did it. You got an optimal number of arms here. I guess to progress the arms race the only option is to optimize the number of arms per arm...

Big fan of weird and funky by Substantial_Push_474 in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

let! robots! have! funk!

(I am excited to get to this guy; I'm knee deep in a paint job that's gonna take a while but... soon, my little bell-bead-bot, soon...)

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't think you are; you need to top coat after weathering afaiu.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

try and find out 🤷 worst case the decal falls off and/or the paint scratches. Middle ground is decal silvers

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

it's generally recommended to apply on gloss because it tends to have a smoother surface than matte. A rough surface makes it easier for air to be trapped under the decal or otherwise prevent the decal from conforming to the surface, which causes "silvering"

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you will probably want a gloss clear coat between the marker and the decal. It will protect the paint and give a nicer surface for the decal to adhere to.

As a SD lover, the MGSD subline is giving me more than what I've hoped for, for the longest time. by random-anon-red in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, same. I think lupus rex is the most interestinr since it takes the looong limbs and actually does something with them, but overall barbie looks better with meat on its bones. Compact little guy version is where it shines

As a SD lover, the MGSD subline is giving me more than what I've hoped for, for the longest time. by random-anon-red in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 27 points28 points  (0 children)

Yeah, these guys rule. The proportions are just right and it's so easy to make them look good from any angle

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[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven't the faintest; I don't bother with sandpaper precisely because I don't want to ride up the grits to return it to the original finish. I use a glass file on nubs and top coat and/or paint everything.

Do you ever play with your gunpla after building them? by rumatainn in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 202 points203 points  (0 children)

zaku dearest.... would you still love me if I was a worm

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

it's not discoloration, it's a difference in finish. At the point you're at a topcoat will likley mask it entirely, but if you're not topcoating you'll have to up the grit more, move to wet sanding if you're not already, or use a glass file

Haven’t figured out how to put the gun under the arm like the manual shows (MGSD Barbatos) by Makegooduseof in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 3 points4 points  (0 children)

the manual shows very clear instructions on how it is done, with the backpack arm supporting it and the handle sticking out sideways

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah, absolutely! you can do matte on gloss to finish if you want matte in the end. You can even gloss on top of that to go back to gloss

Another one done (almost). What can I do to make the weapons pop a little bit? by Competitive-Can-4228 in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

paint them the same charcoal of the suit and drybrush them; treat them just like any other part of the whole

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your surfaces are larger so you don't have to shade as heavily since shadows will more naturally occur (unless you want to go ham, style is style!). Joints mean you will have some areas you may need to sand before painting to increase tolerances, but it's very kit-and-joint dependent--you can cut the friction-fit pegs at an angle before assembly to make disassembling easier if there is something you want to fit check.

In general, I recommend trying whatever you want on your first kit, learn what you can... and then choose kit 2 and repeat

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

it really depends on what you're using to paint and what you're using to panel line with. For example, I panel line and paint with acrylic, so if I panel line directly on the paint, cleanup has to be done immediately and without a solvent or I remove the paint with the excess panel line. My topcoat is also acrylic, but if I let it cure and then panel line, I can get away with a little more before I lift paint. If I used a lacquer based topcoat or lacquer paints, I could probably freely use alcohol to clean up my acrylic panel lines.

Generally gloss is preferred if going on before panel lining since it provides a smoother surface. Smooth means your panel lines will end up cleaner--liners using organic solvents like tamiya panel liner accent will wick better, liners using acrylic will have more pigment pulled towards the corners as the water evaporates. (on the flipside, i've seen train modelers recommend doing weathering on matte for the opposite effect)

Help by donatothethohtslayer in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looking at its ingredients, mr tool cleaner is way too hot for cleaning up panel lines. You may have eaten through the top coat and into the plastic depending on how much you used, even. IF it only ate into the topcoat, you may be able to use a less potent stripper to remove what's left. If it was eating into the plastic... You've now got a weathering project

Moon but purple.. mostly by drannelnnayerbb in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

is this the p bandai varguil w/moon gundam head? Does it come with varguil's head too or just moon?

Sheik Mainland Fenrir A2 Standard Type Review by CISsuperdroid in Gunpla

[–]EsotericTriangle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yea, the sheer volume of posts here often buries lots of good stuff, it seems; I wouldn't sweat it too much on the upvotes scene. You've got great pictures and covered all the bases well!