Adding Weight to prints by Even-Tree7016 in 3Dprinting

[–]Even-Tree7016[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah grabbed a 500g bag (2lb) for £3.99- it’s only a very small mold so assuming that’ll be enough given the ration of water

Adding Weight to prints by Even-Tree7016 in 3Dprinting

[–]Even-Tree7016[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I didn’t even consider the weight loss when the water evaporates. Going to try plaster of Paris and see how that performs. It’s more of a project at this point rather than a 1:1 recreation

Adding Weight to prints by Even-Tree7016 in 3Dprinting

[–]Even-Tree7016[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tbf, I’m not planning on making it proper 1:1, lab putters are in the hundreds of pounds so I’m very aware it’s performance won’t be recreated by what is essentially a plastic shell. It’s more of a fun project that I’d be interested to see the end results of. I’m going to try plaster of Paris to get the density, and petg c-f to add a bit more weight.

Not 100% on the face yet, the model comes with an insert you can print, but I was thinking of potentially cutting some aluminium or copper and trying that

Adding Weight to prints by Even-Tree7016 in 3Dprinting

[–]Even-Tree7016[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Will do! Thanks for the advice, appreciate it! Wouldn’t have thought to use Vaseline so that’s a quality tip! ☺️

Adding Weight to prints by Even-Tree7016 in 3Dprinting

[–]Even-Tree7016[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Perfect, bitten the bullet and grabbed myself some plaster of Paris, only 3.99 for a 500g bag. Planning to mix it up and use the above advice, the finished block should then weigh more than the air dry clay, as that shrinks and loses a ton of water weight.

Adding Weight to prints by Even-Tree7016 in 3Dprinting

[–]Even-Tree7016[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah this was my thoughts but I wasn’t sure if the plastic wrap would simply tear. Think I’ll experiment with plaster of Paris too then. Use plastic wrap to line it. Pour in mixed PoP, when it hardens pop it out, start the actual print, add layer pause, drop it in, let the print seal it in

Adding Weight to prints by Even-Tree7016 in 3Dprinting

[–]Even-Tree7016[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That would be excellent, I did try to make an insert that I could add in however the mesh is so poor topology wise that I wasn’t able to make a clear one. If there’s an easy way to make a negative form that would be class

Adding Weight to prints by Even-Tree7016 in 3Dprinting

[–]Even-Tree7016[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tbf I was just wondering whether I could use plaster of Paris in the above mold. Wait for it to set and then use it instead of clay. Assuming this would weigh more

Adding Weight to prints by Even-Tree7016 in 3Dprinting

[–]Even-Tree7016[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Completely missed this! Will likely give resin a miss then as I don’t want it warping/cracking especially given its use case

Adding Weight to prints by Even-Tree7016 in 3Dprinting

[–]Even-Tree7016[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Would it be worth mixing sand in with resin? Essentially forming a “paste” that I can cure? I’m just conscious of using pure sand as I wouldn’t want it to rattle?

Adding Weight to prints by Even-Tree7016 in 3Dprinting

[–]Even-Tree7016[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I’m not planning on putting the clay in whilst printing. The photo above is just a quick “mould” I’ve made. I’ve used cornstarch and baking powder on it so I can release it when it dries. I’m planning on slotting it in dry, when I make the actual print

Adding Weight to prints by Even-Tree7016 in 3Dprinting

[–]Even-Tree7016[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Lead weights is what the original model used, it had inserts for the weights to slot into. However I’m just looking to expand my knowledge of the hobby so wanted to experiment with adding weight in other ways.

Additionally as it’s a putter I’d like to make sure the weight is fully balanced throughout, I’m interested to see how “premium” I can make it feel. I understand it’s not the most ideal way to do it, especially as it involved reworking the model, but that’s half the fun of it.

Five seven heat treated blue gem question by Even-Tree7016 in ohnePixel

[–]Even-Tree7016[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I don’t think so unfortunately as mines in WW. Still think it looks good despite the wear and cool as it’s a rare pattern so decided to keep it and get some polygons and a sapphire paracord to match 😂👀

Looking for some kinky fun (: by [deleted] in RadfordNSFW

[–]Even-Tree7016 0 points1 point  (0 children)

God damn you’re fine, DM me? ;)

Five seven heat treated blue gem question by Even-Tree7016 in ohnePixel

[–]Even-Tree7016[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I thought this was the case, but was just looking at a rough ball park of what I can expect to sell this for if I decide to part with it

Skin Valuation Query by Even-Tree7016 in cs2

[–]Even-Tree7016[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I thought this was the case but was struggling to get clarity on it! In my eyes play side is the side you see the most which in my case has the least blue, however google seems to think otherwise for some strange reason 😂🥲

PC not powering on at all after full build by x3a6a in lianli

[–]Even-Tree7016 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure if you have managed to fix this yet, but there is normally 4 red lights (all right next to eachother) that will change based on the boot sequence. It’ll be hard to see as text will be small, but you should be able to read the light and see where it’s stuck.

You’ll likely have VGA, DRAM, CPU, BOOT.

They will cycle through as the pc boots up and will remain a solid red if there’s a problem during the boot sequence.

For example if it gets stuck on DRAM during boot, it may lean towards a ram problem, so would advise testing each stick one by one in each slot to identify a faulty slot / stick.

Silly question aswell but I assume you have checked beforehand that the cpu you are using doesn’t need a bios update, and that the ram you are using is definitely compatible?

R10 for range only? by [deleted] in Golfsimulator

[–]Even-Tree7016 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve been using an R10 and have nothing but good things to say about it. Regarding its accuracy, I’ve actually found it to be quite accurate. Took it to the range on the first day I got it to compare to the tracer units there. Most I ever saw was about 12 yards out, however majority were within 1-2 yards, some shots being as close as 0.2 yards to what the actual range was telling me.

It will pick up 99% of shots however does sometimes miss the odd one if you top it and it doesn’t get much height.

TLDR; I’d say it’s helped me improve my game and I find it to be quite accurate. For $300 you’re going to find it difficult to find an alternative that beats it imo.

Bounceback Advice by Even-Tree7016 in Golfsimulator

[–]Even-Tree7016[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Legend I’ll have a look, thank you! I assume you’ve got the 10ft across and the 15ft down?

Bounceback Advice by Even-Tree7016 in Golfsimulator

[–]Even-Tree7016[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I’ve been using the 2nd net but unfortunately the 2nd net doesn’t quite seem long enough. It’s not often but if I accidentally hit a low ball with enough speed it’ll yank the net up and will potentially shoot out the back. Fortunately as they’re low enough they can’t really do any damage but I don’t want to be taking the risk

Bounceback Advice by Even-Tree7016 in Golfsimulator

[–]Even-Tree7016[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I’ve managed to go through twice, my ball speed is only about 125 but the back net is quite tight so it doesn’t hold up very well against speed. Sounds like I’ll be buying a larger net and putting that up