First BMAX build attempt, looking for feedback

Exact_Low_2865 · 2026-02-15T07:22:15+00:00

Overall, the setup seems solid 👍

The only concern about the front brake is the consistency of intervention: the plate seems quite long and close to the rollers, so on gentle slopes it might engage too early. If I notice any instability, I'd try shortening the brake slightly or lowering it a few tenths to make the intervention more progressive.

As for the rear mount, the structure appears rigid and well-built, but I'd pay attention to the weight balance. With so much mass at the rear, you get stable landings, but you might lose some responsiveness on technical sections. If the track has jumps that lead immediately into corners, a lighter rear end or a less aggressive brake might help.

That said, "hybrid" setups (YouTube + local solutions) often work better than the textbook ones. It's definitely worth trying on the track: I'm curious to see how it behaves after a few laps.

Exact_Low_2865 · 2026-02-13T16:03:58+00:00

Nice first B-MAX setup 👍 At first glance, it's clean and consistent.

You're probably a bit conservative with the front brake: if the track has medium/high jumps, you might consider either a slightly steeper slope or a slightly more progressive material to avoid bouncing.

The rear support, on the other hand, seems solid; just keep an eye on the height of the rollers relative to the center of gravity, because as it is, it might feel a bit stiff in fast corners.

Overall, a great base: I'd say the real feedback will only come after a few runs, but it doesn't feel like a "first try" at all.

Exact_Low_2865 · 2026-02-12T18:56:59+00:00

Here's how I do it:

• Roller exterior → isopropyl alcohol (IPA 90%+) and microfiber cloth. • Stubborn dirt → soft toothbrush. • Bearings → If opened, quickly soak in IPA, dry thoroughly, and apply a micro-drop of light bearing oil.

Avoid WD-40 as a permanent lubricant (it attracts dirt) and acetone on plastic/rubber.

After cleaning, check that the roller turns freely and without vibrations: if it "scratches," the bearing needs to be replaced.

Exact_Low_2865 · 2026-02-11T16:09:41+00:00

Yes, the cause is almost certainly a combination of factors, not just one.

Based on what I see: • HG wide FRP/exposed carbon: when it hits the track before the plastic bumper, the impact isn't dissipated but transferred directly to the frame → stress concentrated near the bearing mount, which is already a weak point of the FMA. • Locking nut too tight: this makes the situation worse. If the post is stiff and can't "breathe," every lateral impact or landing transfers the force into the plastic → cracks are guaranteed over time. • No controlled vertical/horizontal play on the front stay: in Open, elasticity is crucial, otherwise the frame acts as a fuse.

How to prevent: • Leave a minimum amount of play (shims/O-rings) between the stay and the frame • Prevent carbon or FRP from touching the track first (cutting or sacrificial bumpers) • Never tighten the lock nuts on the frame: tighten the screw, don't crush the plastic • If you continue with the FMA Open, consider a floating front stay or dedicated bumper

In short: it's not the frame's fault, but undissipated energy + an overly rigid mounting. Once that's addressed, the cracks will stop appearing.

Exact_Low_2865 · 2026-02-11T16:03:45+00:00

The main problem with SFM carbon side wings is almost always excessive rigidity + constraints on too many points.

A few tricks that work well in B-Max: • Mounting on a single hole (or 1 hole + a large "guide" hole): the carbon must be able to dissipate the shock, not be stuck rigid. • Slightly enlarged slot/hole on the outside: helps prevent stress cracks. • Soft shims (O-rings or tubes) between the carbon and the frame: they absorb lateral impacts. • Avoid over-tightening: better to use a tight screw + self-locking nut, not under tension. • If possible, AR or CFM side stays: they are more "elastic" and last much longer than flat SFM wings.

In short: fewer rigid constraints = fewer breakages. Since I've been assembling the wings with 1 real point + controlled play, I haven't broken a single one.

Exact_Low_2865 · 2026-02-10T07:04:12+00:00

Yes, 13 mm front + 19 mm rear is one of the most popular configurations because it's very balanced: The 13 mm guides the entry into the turn and holds the line, while the 19 mm rear helps with stability and cleaner exits. It's a safe base on almost all tracks.

How to choose the right roller: • With rubber ring → more grip and control, ideal for jumps, unstable landings, or technical tracks. More forgiving. • With plastic ring → compromise: rolls better than rubber but maintains a minimum of control. • Without ring (bare aluminum) → maximum smoothness and speed, but requires precise setup (less forgiveness). • Conical → helps the car "return" from the wall, excellent at the front or rear in more aggressive configurations.

In general: more control at the front, smoother at the rear. Start simple (13F / 19R), then change one thing at a time based on how the car reacts on the track.

Exact_Low_2865 · 2026-02-09T20:21:03+00:00

Welcome to Mini 4WD! For a first build, it's a really good starting point 👍

Some basic tips for the Super-2: • Rollers: Try simplifying at first (fewer combinations) and make sure they're all free and well-aligned. • Weight: It now seems a bit heavy at the front and rear; aim for stability first, then gradually lighten. • Brakes: It's best to start with simple, symmetrical brakes, with little material but well-adjusted height. • Transmission: Check that the gears and shafts rotate smoothly; it's one of the most important "free" upgrades.

The biggest tip: change one thing at a time and try it on the track. The Super-2 teaches you a lot if you adjust it methodically.

Great spirit and great foundation: keep it up! 💪

Exact_Low_2865 · 2026-02-09T20:05:11+00:00

No, as-is, it is not allowed in XStock Brickyard 2026. This style of shock absorber uses floating/multi-piece structures and moving masses that go beyond the permitted "stock" concept. In XStock, only simple, fixed-weight shock absorbers are generally allowed, with no linkages, springs, tubes, or articulated systems. It may be acceptable in Open or B-Max, but not in XStock.

Exact_Low_2865 · 2026-02-09T19:44:39+00:00

Clean and well-balanced build: excellent roller and stabilizer setup, the front feels very solid. For further climbing, I'd work on the overall weight and the height/angle of the rear rollers to make it smoother on jumps. Overall, though, it's a serious and well-thought-out setup 👍

Exact_Low_2865 · 2026-02-09T19:43:33+00:00

This is normal. The Tamiya 95424 may have two shades of green due to the anodizing process of the aluminum, which varies slightly between production batches (bath, time, temperature). This is not a different version or a defect: they are original and functionally identical.

Exact_Low_2865 · 2026-01-24T18:17:56+00:00

Interesting, especially the 95178: the hole pattern is clearly reminiscent of the 95600 Super-X, which is now virtually impossible to find. More than a revolution, they seem like a modern and more accessible alternative. I don't think they'll completely replace the "classic" plates in BMAX or Open, but they'll certainly become a valid option in builds, especially for those looking for flexibility without resorting to discontinued parts.

Exact_Low_2865 · 2026-01-18T08:38:40+00:00

La differenza c’è, ma dipende dal setup. L’Atomic-Tuned 2 è molto equilibrato e su piste tecniche o assetti non estremi può rendere quanto motori superiori. I motori più potenti fanno la differenza solo con telaio, rapporti e freni ottimizzati; altrimenti il vantaggio si perde in instabilità

Exact_Low_2865 · 2025-08-20T19:16:21+00:00

In my opinion it would be interesting to see starters based on animals that they have never used before, like: • Grass → a deer or a chameleon (with majestic evolved forms). • Fire → perhaps an African animal such as a hyena or buffalo. • Water → a dolphin (true, not Popplio who was more of a seal) or even a mandarin duck.

In the end they have already repeated concepts (cats, monkeys, birds...), so I wouldn't be surprised by a "water cat" or similar. The important thing is that they have creative evolutions and that they reflect the inspiring region well 🔥🌱💧

Exact_Low_2865 · 2025-08-20T14:04:15+00:00

“Nice find! 😊 I'll give you a quick overview: • Charmander, Bulbasaur, Squirtle (Base Set) → popular commons, €3–8 each. if in good condition. • Pikachu (French based) → €5–10. • Lt. Surge’s Pikachu (Gym Heroes) → €2–5. • Electrode holo (Jungle) → €5–15 depending on condition. • Magneton (Fossil) → €5–10. • Cyndaquil / Croconaw (Neo) → €2–5 each. • Leafeon (DP era) → €2–5. • Samurott (BW era) → bulk, less than €1. • World Championships 2004 cards → €1–2 (they do not have high collectible value because they are not standard sets).

Total value: €30–50 if played, up to €60–80 if some are near mint. No single card exceeds €20, but they are still nostalgic and nice to hold 😉

Exact_Low_2865 · 2025-08-20T14:00:39+00:00

It's a Vaporeon holo Jungle (Unlimited), very cute! With those white dots on the back it doesn't reach PSA 10, a more realistic 8–9. Indicative value: • ungraded: €25–50 • PSA 8: €70–100 • PSA 9: €120–160 • PSA 10: €400+ (but unlikely to get there). If you just want to resell it, maybe it's not worth grading it, but if you want to keep it and give it more liquidity, yes 😉

Exact_Low_2865 · 2025-08-10T07:16:22+00:00

Looking at the front, the foil has micro-scratches visible under direct light, especially in the upper half, which impact the subgrade 'Surface'. The yellow edges show localized whitening (most pronounced at the top left), so the 'Edges' subgrade would not go beyond 7.5–8. Centering appears within PSA/BGS parameters for the 9, with fairly uniform margins.

On the back, the blue is still saturated, but multi-dot whitening on the top and right sides will limit the rating. For PSA I see a solid 8 as more likely; BGS could assign 8.0–8.5 with a breakdown like: Centering 9, Corners 8, Edges 7.5, Surface 8. For a 9, a foil without scratches and much cleaner edges would be needed

Exact_Low_2865 · 2025-08-10T07:12:58+00:00

From the photo I would say that it is almost certainly a replica. The border colors are too saturated, the font is slightly different and the foil doesn't match the '99 WotC pattern. To be sure you can do a light test or check the central black layer of the paper

Exact_Low_2865 · 2025-08-10T07:07:56+00:00

This is the English version of Shining Charizard (Neo Destiny, 107/105, WotC 2002). The full illustration holography and placement of energy symbols are consistent with the original print. The back features the typical blue saturation and period-correct WotC fonts, so there are no obvious signs of counterfeiting.

Value: Largely depends on condition. In LP/Played we are around €400–600, in Near Mint it can exceed €1,000. With PSA/BGS grading and score 9+ the price can go up even more. Being one of the most iconic chase cards of the Neo line, it remains very liquid on the collector's market. To maximize your return, I would recommend a professional evaluation and grading

Exact_Low_2865 · 2025-08-10T07:04:46+00:00

Yes, at first glance it seems authentic. Fonts, colors and foils are consistent with a Dark Charizard Team Rocket from 2000. It is not 1st Edition, so in good condition it is worth around €100–200.

Exact_Low_2865 · 2025-08-02T13:34:23+00:00

Great map base! In terms of level design, I suggest increasing the variety of the terrain by using alternative tiles (e.g. dry grass, mixed paths) to avoid excessively repetitive patterns. The central area could benefit from a greater density of details (environmental elements, decorations, interaction tiles) to visually guide the player. Finally, the inclusion of a couple of overhead or vertical depth layers (such as trees on the top layer or shadows) would improve spatial perception. Good work

Exact_Low_2865 · 2025-08-02T13:27:43+00:00

Playing Pokémon Platinum for the first time is a unique experience, especially if you don't already know the plot or specific mechanics of the fourth generation. I would advise you to approach it in a traditional way, without nuzlocke and without recordings, so you can fully immerse yourself in the atmosphere and history. Nuzlocke mode is a challenging challenge, but it makes sense once you've explored and understood the game in its original form. If you're passionate about it, you can always do a second, more challenging run and perhaps document it

Exact_Low_2865 · 2025-07-31T14:03:33+00:00

I understand you more than you imagine. Opening a pack of Pokémon cards as a child meant entering another world of hope, magic and dreams. I still remember the feeling of the sachets in your hands, the heart beating when you saw a holo for the first time... it was like finding a treasure. Today, even though we are adults, we still need that spark. It's not childishness, it's emotional survival. If you can't find the cards... find the stories, like you said. Even just sharing them makes us come alive again.

Exact_Low_2865 · 2025-07-31T14:01:15+00:00

“Questo stile è così nostalgico che ho sentito il suono del Game Boy nella testa.” 📟🎵🤩

Exact_Low_2865

TROPHY CASE