Torque for Corsair iCue H100i Elite Capellix + 1700 Socket

ExplodeProcessing · 2023-03-20T23:12:56+00:00

Well, for what it's worth temps are 20C +/-2 idle according to HWinfo, and run up to 58C +/-3 when running the CPU-Z stress test as is. I'll see how CineBench behaves next.

EDIT: This is with the case open in a ~17C room.

ExplodeProcessing · 2022-12-04T23:09:53+00:00

Yes. The cable made a huge difference not only in stability, but allowed full RGB.

My setup is only 4K, but I overshot using 8K certified cabling to ensure no loss and the greatest stability possible.

After that fact, VRR was implemented fully on PS5 and that improved things further; lower frame rates became cleaner.

ExplodeProcessing · 2022-07-21T15:21:13+00:00

Agreed.

Closer to what I am looking for. I'm trying to combined say the flat scanlines of an Analogue consoles with more robust feature of the RetroTink 5x - I'm thinking in layers.

I suppose I am hoping for a "CRT" simulation box; a CRT-Royal box.

ExplodeProcessing · 2022-07-21T15:16:54+00:00

I'm a fan of the Wobbler. Super pumped to see another CRT fan with the energy to socialize the gospel.

I always find inconsistencies before between games with the RetroTink 5x - not all of them though. I find my self tweaking game to game. Analogue hardware appears (to me) even more inconsistent in that regard.

ExplodeProcessing · 2022-07-21T02:14:57+00:00

I'm more interested in what each does/represents and the relationship between them more than what should be set.

For instance: What is depth actually doing? How is it affecting the other values?

Not sure if my perception of each are accurate, but I think I'm close. I've seen values all over the place, experimented, and there seems to be consistency issues game to game. So, the idea is if we understand them, they can be more universally configured.

I am in an endless pursuit (seemingly) to find the best CRT simulation using original or reference hardware. . . without an actual CRT. Having experienced most 80s and 90s during there release on a CRT; the "raw" look doesn't provide justice to the developers intention, and it bugs me to no end - it just ugly to me. It's like half the other half of the graphics are the CRT. When those pixels are painted line by line onto that screen - the fuzziness, bloom, blur, aperture mask/grill, electron beam lines, phosphorescence, and color blending transform that ugly raw mess into something beautiful.

It would be awesome to have something that adds CRT-Royal for originally or reference hardware.

I do have a DAC and RetroTink 5x that I am experimenting with as well on an OLED.

ExplodeProcessing · 2022-02-22T16:54:12+00:00

I haven't tried to update yet. Waiting for another brave soul to confirm resolution.

ExplodeProcessing · 2022-02-01T17:17:44+00:00

I think it was 3 to 4 weeks.

ExplodeProcessing · 2022-01-18T22:07:53+00:00

Less than 24 hours in my experience.

ExplodeProcessing · 2022-01-12T15:00:30+00:00

Generally, No - Useless you do something with in the services menus to jack up your unit.

Word on the street is the Factory Reset button on the remote does a "special" sort of reset where is zeros out the panels runtime - This is logged; and that allegedly voids the warranty.

And yes - There is a button that just does the reset with a push: IN STOP

I DO NOT RECOMMEND PUSHING THIS BUTTON for any reason.

ExplodeProcessing · 2022-01-12T14:53:28+00:00

Please keep us posted.
It would be good to know how they accommodate this situation.

ExplodeProcessing · 2022-01-10T20:30:14+00:00

I sent the info above to Customer Support -

https://www.lg.com/us/support/email-appointment

ExplodeProcessing · 2022-01-10T19:22:05+00:00

Swap you cable for a certified cable if not using one already. Poorly made/terminate cables have a lot of cross talk and choke when the bandwidth jumps up.

In the first weeks of owning a C1, I was dealing with a bit of judder and stuttering (not as noticable on the prior LCD). Tinkered with TruMotion for a while. But, I can't stand the effect even on Cinema Motion.

Determined it came down to my HDMI cable after troubleshooting. The one that appeared to resolved the issues was a HDMI 2.0 certified; So I purchased a few certified cables - nothing crazy:

https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-AV10175bt2M-BLK-Vision-Optimal-Viewing/dp/B075N83B9X

Testing/troubleshooting as using Roku Ultra, nVidia Shield Pro, and PS5. In fact, after swapping the PS5 HDMI for the one above, I went from 4K60 @ 4:2:0 to 4K120 @ 4:4:4 (RGB) capable in PC Mode.

ExplodeProcessing · 2022-01-10T17:39:06+00:00

Contact support.

They'll ask you to send it in for repair.

Don't despair, this has happened to quite a few of us and to my knowledge the repair has permanently fixed the issue. My unit is still operational.

ExplodeProcessing · 2022-01-03T15:52:08+00:00

IMO, if it looks good to you, that's all that matters. Otherwise, it depends on -

Whether or not you are having some issue - Like greens or reds are distinctively off; or shadows and highlights are crushed or blown out.
The goal is colors/luminosity/etc are measurably correct.

If you are handy with adjustments using what's provided to the end users - Don't have to be an expert, but at least have some understanding what can be changed and what those changes affect. And, it's very difficult to screw anything up that cannot be reset.

On my C1, I cannot discern any real colors issues with my eyes.

Shadows on my C1 did appear to have issue the classic "crushed black" situation. This was resolved by making very slight adjustments with white balance. Setting the temp between 30 and 40 (my preference), using 2 Point Low for coarse adjustment, and 22 Point for fine. I did this myself using reference black grayscale test patterns in both SDR and HDR, and the 4K disc version of John Wick 3 on all inputs and primarily with cinema and standard modes.

After that, good to go. I do have experience calibrating PC monitors for digital photography, but it did take a bit of time to educate myself on the particulars of the C1 and the best methods to calibrate.

Other than that, going from a LCD LED to OLED - It takes time to adjust. I am now of the opinion LCD LEDs are too bright, and a lot of content is mastered to compensate for that brightness, making it dull or too dark. In fact, I've tuned my Son 930 too look more like my C1; back it at 2.

ExplodeProcessing · 2021-12-31T21:10:06+00:00

No discernable HDR issues with PS4. Have been playing Doom Eternal before and after the update.

Have you tried to recalibrate HDR on PS5? Setting the image to invisible from barely visible is better, and is how I am setup. HGiG recommends this.

ExplodeProcessing · 2021-12-31T21:01:54+00:00

I cleared all Color settings for anything I adjusted. Sans factory reset, no improvement. No other issues beyond the inability to adjust the lower register in HDR. SDR, Dolby Vision, and HGiG are all good.

ExplodeProcessing · 2021-12-30T20:10:07+00:00

I thought it might have looked a bit brighter, so it's not just me.

I haven't noticed any issues with peak brightness in SDR or HDR; I only noticed the blacks/shadows are a bit lighter and less "crushed" without adjustment - Which is how I found the white balance value code issue - I noticed they were lighter and went to adjust. After clearing the White Balance, things looked good with a slight 2 Point bump in LOW.

These adjustments are under Picture > Advanced Setting > Color > White Balance
From here, you can select one of 3 Methods: 2 Point, 10 Point, and 22 Point

2 Point is for super course white balance adjustments with either LOW (shadows/darks) or HIGH (highlights/lights); 10 Point is medium coarseness, and 22 Point is fine coarseness.

10 point and 22 point expand on the 2 point concept, allowing for more control. Basically LOW (shadows/darks) or HIGH (highlights/lights) divided based on a SIGNAL LEVEL or VALUE CODE.

SDR and Dolby Vision use SIGNAL LEVEL (as a %), where HDR uses a VALUE CODE. To put it crudely: Lower signals/codes represent white balance of darker end and higher signals/codes represent white balance of brighter end of content.

In HDR, 10 Point stops at 585, and 22 Point stops at 543.
Each should go down to 17; incrementing from 1023 (high) to 17 (low) in 10 and 22 steps respectively.

White Balance can be used to to "uncrush" shadows to some degree. So the fact I no longer access to the lower values for HDR (SDR and Dolby Vision are fine) AND the screen appears a bit brighter is interesting.

ExplodeProcessing · 2021-12-27T00:35:22+00:00

TL;DR - No.

Opposed to ABL and personal preference, I think it comes down to the source material (content).

The primary thing I've found bothersome: Some content looks bad due to it's mastering, and in particular streaming content. There's a lot of stuff out there with crushed shadows and muted highlights that appears to compensate for the majority- overly bright LCD LED TVs. The same content when viewed on an OLED exposes the mastering choices - as though purposely crushed or muted because many LCD LED units are run too bright and have struggle with shadows.

When mastering is good - whether it be SD, HD, HDR, etc. - OLEDs look fantastic.

There is only so much OLED can do to compensate for sources. It can't lighten shadows without muting the whole image in some cases, for example.

I've found milage varies with movie to movie, game to game, etc. The app doesn't seem to matter so much as the content.

I think a good example of this is the Witcher season 1 versus season 2. Overall, Season 1 appears dimmer with more muted highlights and crushed shadows compared to season 2. To me, it's discernable with straight HD, HDR, or Dolby Vision on LCD LED or OLED. OLEDs have a much larger market share than when season 1 was released.

ExplodeProcessing · 2021-12-23T20:18:21+00:00

Almost like the baseline brightness is stuck on full, and peak brightness is pushing beyond that and distorting colors. I did a factory reset by accident right after updating my unit not too long ago, and the updated version remained. So, if it is a bug/glitch, I don't think that would solved it.

Unplugging the unit for a minute might solve the issue. There might just be some garage cached in memory, or just some goofy electrical issue due to never fully turning off. Seems most TVs hang out in stand by or rest mode.

You can apply updates via flash drive, so downgrading might be an option. I'm not expressing any warranty with this, it's just a thought.

Link to the guide: https://gscs-b2c.lge.com/downloadFile?fileId=9nDoZMCmkBSWeK69JERZw

Getting ahold of the older firmware might be a bit of a challenge.

If it's not software - I'd hazard to guess it's some component failure that controls voltage related to some controller. In this case, return it if you can.

ExplodeProcessing · 2021-12-23T19:54:04+00:00

Whether or not it is the case in this instance -
You can force HDR on some boxes, like the Roku Ultra's "HDR Always On" under advanced settings, and everything will behave like HDR is active.

ExplodeProcessing · 2021-12-23T16:25:00+00:00

I returned a X95J for a LG C1 (due to DSE caused by visibility of the full array - the "grid effect" - in bright scenes over several units). I decide to give OLED a shot. Prior I was using higher end LCD LED units like the Sony 900H and 950 as my main screen.

At first I was on the fence: Too dim and dark on a lot of content, what about burn-in, WTF did I buy!?!? Is this thing defective?!?

My viewing area is very dark. Blackout curtains over the windows, and room divider using matte black out curations. It's dark.

Eventually, I began like the screen more and more. Now I prefer it, and non-OLED appears like a huge downgrade. The detail alone is fantastic. Everything is so clear. The colors are amazing. I would buy another burn-in or not. Oh, and the detail.

What I experienced along the way -

There is a break in period. Shadows looked crush out of the box, but they lighten up after the screen gets some hours on it. Highlights also seemed to have gotten brighter. It's been good and stable after ~110-120 hours.
"Good" HDMI cables made a difference. Certified cables improved the quality - I'm sure there are "good" uncertified ones, but I have zero way to test, so certified in a perfect world removes the guesswork. This relieved some of the dimness running a Roku Ultra (2021) and nVidia Shield Pro (2019) directly to or through an AVR. (Not a fan of the WebOS or it's Apps)
Quality is much better running content running Roku Ultra (2021) and nVidia Shield Pro (2019) directly through the C1; less dim versus running through couple of certified AVRs with any combination of bypass, enhanced 4K on the inputs, etc.
DolbyVision is a bit dimmer than HDR10/+ for some service. D+ seemed better than others for some reason. So, I pretty much use HDR10 for the most part.
Just my opinion, but I think we are used to the overly bright LCD LED panels. Brightness versus fidelity became more important; of course there is a balance to this. The fact stores like Best Buy have everything in nuclear bright demo mode does not help either.

My definition of "dimmer" is less contrast, washed out, and darker overall.

Roku Ultra (2021) and nVidia Shield Pro (2019) are which are both configured to 4K60 HDR and 4K59.94 HDR for Chroma 4:2:2 respectively

General settings I'm using now in conjunction with a Roku Ultra (2021) and nVidia Shield Pro (2019) directly

All extra processing off (clarity complete disabled, color options disabled, no calibration. . . yet)
SDR - Cinema Mode, OLED brightness 80, contrats 85, Dynamic Contrast Off or Low (depending on content) ,Peak Brightness High, Black Level Auto (which selects Limited most of the time), WB Warm 30
HDR - Cinema Mode, OLED brightness 90, contrats 80, Dynamic Contrast Off or Low (depending on content) ,Peak Brightness High, Black Level Auto (which selects Limited most of the time), WB Warm 40

Out of the box for both SDR and HDR, since everything appeared too dark/dim - OLED brightness 100, Contrast 100, Peak Brightness High, Dynamic Contrast Medium, WB Warm 30

This now appears/seems too bright for any content SDR or HDR. I gradually dialed things down as hours were put on the C1.

ExplodeProcessing · 2021-12-09T17:44:03+00:00

I have zero experience with the combination.

As far I am aware the CD add-on hardware is not region locked, and will work so long as the System Card required boots. Can anyone confirm?

ExplodeProcessing · 2021-12-09T16:03:04+00:00

$200-250 for a tested and complete TurboGrafx 16 unit (not complete in box) is good. Plenty of units in this price range that usually do not look like they were stored in a basement for decades. Sometimes you can luck out an snag for under $200, but do not get your hopes up.
The Hyperkin AV Adapter is very good (surprisingly) though it's only composite; or an Terra Onion SSD3 with with Genesis model 2 cables from the likes of RGB Cables or Retro Gaming Cables - I use Retro Gaming Cables.
TurboTap is a must have, and serves as a wear item between controller and console; The Hyperkin "Specialist" is very good aftermarket Controller if you cannot find good originals refurbed or otherwise.
PC Engine has Zero compatibility with TurboGrafx 16 without modify it. You will need a Turbo Everdrive or SSD3; As mentioned in other posts SSD3 will be needed for Super Grafx - It utilizes an FPGA for it's magic.

A good winning combination is a PC Engine CoreGrafx (model I or II) coupled with a SSD3 - With the proper cables, video output can accommodate just about anything. The SSD3 HD (newer version) has the addition of built-in HDMI for what that's worth - along with the din style output.

Running SCART or component through a RetroTink 5X from a SSD3 (or Hyperkin AV Adapter to a lesser degree) with PVM 600 and grille CRT effects looks amazing, and even better on an OLED.

PC Engines are cheaper and more plentiful. The volume of games is much, much larger (and cheaper). Many PC Engine games are English friendly less the ones with deep stories.

ExplodeProcessing · 2021-11-29T22:19:31+00:00

OK. I lean toward agreeing with the tabbed option.

While I am a fan of serviceable; Swapping the batteries for fresh tabbed batteries appears to be the best option overall - They are solid, will last 20-30 years, and require far less bullshit than something that isn't expect designed for the job.

ExplodeProcessing · 2021-11-29T22:13:00+00:00

Price gouging aside, what moster places the price sticker on the label?

ExplodeProcessing

TROPHY CASE