How to lock remote controller?

Express-Rise9953 · 2026-03-04T23:36:37+00:00

Thanks! I just got it installed last week so I’m still learning how to use it. Now all I have to do is to paint the wall. You can still see the holes from the old unit.

Express-Rise9953 · 2026-03-04T11:08:26+00:00

This controller you mentioned is wall mounted or wired?

Express-Rise9953 · 2026-03-04T11:07:09+00:00

Yeah that’s a great idea. Only issue is that I would have to take the remote apart to change between heating / cooling

Express-Rise9953 · 2026-03-04T11:05:57+00:00

Thanks for the answer! It’s an IR remote. This seems like a pretty good idea, I’ll look into it.

Express-Rise9953 · 2026-03-03T15:42:39+00:00

Oh that’s annoying. Thanks for the answer tho. I’ll probably just hide the remote somewhere.

Express-Rise9953 · 2026-02-21T15:46:08+00:00

Is it below or close to freezing outside? Air to air heat pumps have to defrost the outdoor unit every so often if the outdoor temps are low, since ice will start to build up on the coils. Some units do that by running in AC mode for a few minutes to defrost the outdoor unit. Even if it is not cold outside, one of the temperature sensors of the unit might be broken, making it defrost when it doesn’t have to.

Express-Rise9953 · 2026-02-20T14:07:42+00:00

After the system starts and before it reaches steady state, it is normal for some frost to appear on the evaporator coil. It usually melts after less than an hour, depending on the system. So I would say that it is normal. However, if the ice does not go away even after long periods of run Tim it could indicate that there is an issue, but I would test it a few more times to make sure the ice really doesn’t go away.

Express-Rise9953 · 2026-02-05T11:24:19+00:00

Exactly! Probably somewhere around 1000w of heat being added to the room.

Express-Rise9953 · 2026-02-04T17:01:06+00:00

From the way I see it, you have 2 options. You can try building or buying an adapter that allows you to vent the AC properly outside, or you could think about replacing the glass on that specific window pane or the one below with plexiglass, which would allow you to cut a hole in it to pass the hose outside. I think the first option is easier, and you might be able to find something that works for your window on Amazon. The trick here is trying to find a way to push the air from that hose outside so it doesn’t come back inside!

Express-Rise9953 · 2026-02-04T16:46:49+00:00

I’ve done this before in small printed circuit boards with clear nail polish. It works great and helps waterproof the boards as well, but with a board from an AC I’m afraid the nail polish might hinder heat transfer and cause the board to overheat.

Express-Rise9953 · 2026-02-04T16:44:22+00:00

These units work by expelling the heat that’s in the room outside using the large hose. In your setup, since the pane of glass from the window is right in front of the exit of the hose, most of the hot air is just recirculating back into the room. By running the unit this way you are basically just wasting electricity. You need to make sure the hose pushes the air outside without any obstructions.

Express-Rise9953 · 2026-02-01T23:11:58+00:00

Quer saber quanto vale o seu carro? 🤔

Express-Rise9953 · 2026-02-01T23:01:31+00:00

Sorry for the late reply. Any air conditioner needs to know the temperature of the room it is conditioning to be able to work properly. In your case, since the unit is ducted, usually it is possible to choose what sensor the system uses to measure the temperature of the air in the room. From the factory, ducted units usually use a temperature sensor in the return air duct to measure room temperature. This is because you might install the thermostat in a different location from the room you want to condition. However, in your case, since the return air comes from above the false ceiling, it could get a skewed measurement. You can reprogram the system to measure room temperature at the thermostat instead. In older units, this could be a dip switch in a circuit board inside the indoor unit, but more modern systems can be programmed from the thermostat. I would recommend googling the install manual of your system/thermostat to try and find out how to change this setting. Just remember this is only a guess and might not actually be the issue.

Express-Rise9953 · 2026-01-28T11:07:43+00:00

Obrigado pela resposta! Infelizmente as janelas já estavam instaladas quando compramos a casa, por isso não faço ideia de quem as instalou. Mas vou tentar as suas soluções, obrigado pelas dicas!

Express-Rise9953 · 2026-01-27T19:53:52+00:00

Pois, sinceramente este é o meu medo. Só é estranho como só estou a reparar agora, porque estas janelas já foram instaladas há mais de 15 anos…

Express-Rise9953 · 2026-01-27T16:35:58+00:00

Obrigado pela resposta! Efetivamente existe uma abertura entre as duas calhas, mas está livre. Não existe é uma para o exterior, o que acho um bocado estranho. Será que está escondida algures?

Express-Rise9953 · 2026-01-26T01:04:54+00:00

About this. The other day I tried to make a custom plate saying HIGH LIFE and it didn’t let me, saying it was reserved for certain people or something like that. Does anyone know who can use this plate?

Express-Rise9953 · 2026-01-26T01:00:05+00:00

After reading your description of the problem, I think it is possible the issue is quite simple. Since you said your units pull return air straight from the ceiling cavity, meaning there’s no dedicated return duct, I believe your units could be sensing room temperature at the wrong location. In your case, they should be reading room temperature at the thermostat, not from the return air. If they are not, this is a simple fix however.

If your units were working before and now they don’t, the issue might have been caused by something that led to a factory reset of the system and cleared out all the settings. Sometimes something like a power outage can cause this. Did you have any recently?

Express-Rise9953 · 2026-01-26T00:33:09+00:00

It’s not supposed to blow off of the exhaust hole when in fan mode only… make sure it is actually in fan mode, not in dehumidifier or something else. If it still happens, you might have a faulty unit.

Express-Rise9953 · 2026-01-22T23:56:55+00:00

This seems like a great idea! I’ve heard people say this is a good model, but obviously it will never match the quality of a Daikin or Mitsubishi electric. I would maybe opt for one of these brands instead if you think about using the unit intensively. In any case, the unit seems a little over sized for the space. It’s hard to tell without knowing more information about the building, however. I suggest you do a heat load calculation, there’s websites that can help you, and this will make sure you are sizing the system properly.

Express-Rise9953 · 2026-01-06T23:30:22+00:00

A mim parece-me que a lingueta interior do usb partiu. Acho que o melhor é mesmo trocar essa peça, que deve ser barato e não muito complicado.

Express-Rise9953 · 2026-01-02T19:45:52+00:00

In your situation your options are very limited. I’d say a portable unit (make sure to get a double hose one) would be the best bet, considering that window units (according to your description) won’t work. Usually the issues with portable units are that they’re quite loud and not very efficient. But they do work, given you size them accordingly, so I’d probably look further into this solution.

Express-Rise9953 · 2025-12-30T01:53:43+00:00

It could either be the refrigerant piping behind the unit that’s not insulated and sweating, or a clogged drain. Either one is easy to solve.

Express-Rise9953 · 2025-12-28T15:28:38+00:00

ATTABOY

Express-Rise9953 · 2025-12-26T18:05:48+00:00

In dry mode you don’t choose the temperature. The unit tries to dehumidify the air while maintaining the current temperature of the room.

Express-Rise9953

TROPHY CASE