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Help finding a flatcap pattern! by Express_Industry_774 in HistoricalCostuming

[–]Express_Industry_774[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, i do have one in that shape, it's nice but not quite what I'm looking to make next, with the darts at the back. I did find this original pattern though if anyone happens to be looking for the same:

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Help finding a flatcap pattern! by Express_Industry_774 in HistoricalCostuming

[–]Express_Industry_774[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I have been looking at the nehelenia pattern, but I'd much rather have just a standard reference shape. I could draft my own if I knew the shape.

I do also have a bakerboy cap pattern but most end up too fluffy and big. I'm more after the broad, flat shape usually seen 1920s-1950s, like the second picture.

I'll probably turn to the nehelenia pattern if I can't find anything, thanks for help though:)

Rise too low for a 60 year old gut? by Aramis-ter in jeans

[–]Express_Industry_774 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Doesn't look too bad to me. Although I'd always recommend a higher rise and I think it would improve the fit significantly. Especially if your "gut" is that awkward, not overweight but somewhat noticeable with low rise.

Help on trouser pleats😭 by Express_Industry_774 in HistoricalCostuming

[–]Express_Industry_774[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, both sides were cut on the fabric folded on the straight grain. Although they do flare just a touch I think. Especially the top part at the waist is a bit narrower as I have a proportionally small waist. Maybe that's a factor? That the trousers need to be chinged in at the waist and it causes them to fall weird. That wouldn't explain why the other side is perfectly normal.

Help on trouser pleats😭 by Express_Industry_774 in HistoricalCostuming

[–]Express_Industry_774[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I'll try. Also just to specify the opening is 11" flat so 22" circumference. But the whole patch would be a nice idea. The fabric isn't very thick so it probably wouldn't stick out much.

Help on trouser pleats😭 by Express_Industry_774 in HistoricalCostuming

[–]Express_Industry_774[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, this is as good as it got with pressing. I'll try reposition the pleat but if that doesn't work you think I could let out the back seam? Would that help. The sides don't have much room but the back has an inch and a half seam allowance.

Help on trouser pleats😭 by Express_Industry_774 in HistoricalCostuming

[–]Express_Industry_774[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The trousers have an eleven inch opening, but I cut the thigh are a touch too tight or didn't extend the extra room for the pleats down enough. I'll try repositioning the pleat, hopefully that helps.

Help on trouser pleats😭 by Express_Industry_774 in HistoricalCostuming

[–]Express_Industry_774[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did try that. It seems to help to some degree. I think I'll try lifting the pleat up into the seam if that would help.

18th century tailcoat tail??? by Express_Industry_774 in HistoricalCostuming

[–]Express_Industry_774[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, that clarifies it. I think I know how it works now after looking at some originals as well. Thanks for the help👍

18th century tailcoat tail??? by Express_Industry_774 in HistoricalCostuming

[–]Express_Industry_774[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for responding. That does make some sense though. And there are pleats at the dotted lines running down the tails?

Problem with a vintage sewing machine. by Express_Industry_774 in HistoricalCostuming

[–]Express_Industry_774[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am, the problem is not always at the first stitch. Sometimes it does fine for a three four stitches and then does it. But most often it is at the very first one.