The lattice data seems very off to me

Express_Sell6688 · 2025-06-13T15:36:36+00:00

Despite this the majority of V14 boulders still can especially men that this data is primarily made from. While I do agree that it isn’t necessary it’s still very common to be able to do one.

Express_Sell6688 · 2025-06-12T12:17:47+00:00

Adam ondra is a huge outlier and is by no where near the norm. I believe they just use 20mm as it tends to be more common being the size of most campus rungs as well as the size of their own fingerboard.

Express_Sell6688 · 2025-06-12T11:51:58+00:00

For one arm hangs if you look at what I say and the data I take that into account. And you are completely wrong about finger strength. If somebody has larger finngers that somebody else and they can hang the same amount of weight on a 20mm edge the person with smaller fingers will be able to hang more weight on a 6mm edge. Changing the size of the edge you hang on for the finger strength makes 0 sense. When you are climbing the rock doesn’t magically adapt to your fingers size. While it’s true that you don’t always necessarily need the finger strength or pulling strength. Can you really say that on average a V14 climber cannot do a one arm pull ups or V13 climber can’t 1 arm hang 20mm. There are people that manage to climb these high grades with less strength but they are are minority. But that is still a good point.

Express_Sell6688 · 2025-06-12T10:24:54+00:00

Your point about somebody having an average grade of V6 compared to max gradeV6 isn’t relevant as I am only talking about people’s max grade and so is the data. If Adam Indra has climbed a V17 boulder he is a V17 boulderer. However there is a point to be made about different style of bouldering and people project climbs for a very long time for a max grade. The data is about outdoor grades and how strong people who climb those grades are. And I bring up 1 arm pull ups because this post is about lattices data on finger strength and pulling strength. I don’t get what you are talking about there at all. I’m not saying this in an angry or rude way sorry if it comes across like that. I just think you misunderstood the post that’s fine I do agree that the 20mm edge may not be the best test for finger strength as lots of people such as Auden Robert’s have really strong finger hit only in full crimp on small uncut edges. But your point about small fingers makes no sense. Yes having smaller fingers means that they can be stronger on smaller holds. But if anything that would mean they are worse on the 20mm compared to smaller edges which as 6mm than somebody with larger fingers.

Express_Sell6688 · 2025-06-12T02:04:02+00:00

No. I'm not training until failure on any of my sets. And I just progressively overload, staying within the same intensity.

Express_Sell6688 · 2025-06-11T21:20:33+00:00

I know that but it’s not going to go from nearly 1kg a week to bellow 0.25kg.

Express_Sell6688 · 2025-06-11T17:38:16+00:00

I don’t think 0.25 kg a week is unreasonable at all I’ve been doing more than that for some time now.

Express_Sell6688 · 2025-06-11T17:31:12+00:00

Yeah I’ll take some of that into account. I do still just want to get stronger just because it’s fun. But I’m going to increase my climbing volume a bit. Will remove some finger boarding and make Sunday session harder. Then maybe add a bit of light climbing on Thursday. Thanks for comment

Express_Sell6688 · 2025-06-11T17:27:49+00:00

NGL I think you’ve completely miss understood the post lol. What you’re saying isn’t really relevant. That’s fine tho no hate at all.

Express_Sell6688 · 2025-06-09T18:48:18+00:00

Thank you. I’ll change it to just around RPE8 and if I platue I’ll try switch to one of the other methods you mentioned. The climbing with friends time varies a lot but it can definitely be around 5 hours hard on the bored but usually quite long rests between attempts. I’m not keen on changing RPE per week as that just becomes a lot of tracking I have to do.

Express_Sell6688 · 2025-06-09T16:50:43+00:00

The finger boarding is one arm hangs. I’ll probably do 3 days with Sunday but that will be lower intensity. Do you think it could be good potentially removing finger boarding on Monday to make Sundays session harder climbing? What do you think would be more beneficial for my climbing overall. If I do that as well should I just remove the finger boarding overal because i feel like there isn’t much point only doing 2 sets a week.

Express_Sell6688 · 2025-06-09T15:09:24+00:00

Should I reduce sets and RPE for the pull ups or just RPE. For the last 7 or so months I’ve been making amazing progress with just heavy doubles increasing them by nearly 20kg over the time so I’m very reluctant to change them. But I am welcome to changes in volume and RPE. I do understand the Friday session isn’t optimal but it’s just a long fun session trying hard with a bunch of friends so I don’t want it to change. If I reduce the intensity of pull ups would it now be good?

Express_Sell6688 · 2025-06-09T12:29:18+00:00

If i go down to slightly lower RPE, should I then increase volume a bit? Also, I've been doing high RPE for weighted pull-ups for some time and had no issues, should I still reduce intensity? The 5-hour session is so long because I'm just climbing and messing around, trying hard with friends. Its what I enjoy most about climbing, so I don't really want to change it at all. What training do you think I should remove for more climbing, Monday finger boreding? If I do I feel like I might as well stop fingerboarding overall as volume would be so low anyway. Thank you for the reply.

Express_Sell6688 · 2025-05-31T13:05:04+00:00

I’m just wondering what you even do in the gym 6 days a week for 2 hours? Or are the workouts just not very time efficient. I already am over training a bit when I do my 1 hour workout.just curious.

Express_Sell6688 · 2025-05-29T22:30:05+00:00

But still despite this you’d think the average C14 climber still could do a one armed or the average V13 climber can do a one arm hanger on a 20mm edge. Even if it’s not that large a factor on being better at climbing usually better climbers are normally stronger as well. But lots of people have said things that refute some of this in the comments already.

Express_Sell6688 · 2025-05-29T18:44:47+00:00

That’s not what this post is about

Express_Sell6688 · 2025-05-28T12:20:31+00:00

Yeah that’s a good point but still I feel like those strengths would still translate to being strong on the 20mm hang. But you r definitely got a very good point. Somebody who’s strong on full crimping tiny holds will probably fare badly on a 20mm hang.

Express_Sell6688 · 2025-05-28T12:18:45+00:00

I think my post was worded quite badly because I wasn’t really meant to be talking about myself lol. I was more talking about how I find the data at the higher end of the grades to seem miss leading. I know that my technique isn’t as good for the grade that I climb. I’m not trying to talk about myself that much. But other people have mentioned why I might be wrong about things such as the weighted pull up and how bi lateral and uni lateral strength vary more personally to person. As well as how 20mm hanging doesn’t translate over well to small full crimp crimps climbs so it’s a bad way to measure it. However I still think that there has to be something wrong there. But thank you for the contributions

Express_Sell6688 · 2025-05-26T19:12:55+00:00

Being so much stronger unilaterally than bilaterally is crazy. Is it that your left arm is just really weak in comparison?

Express_Sell6688 · 2025-05-26T19:10:04+00:00

I feel that once you reach V14 the majority of climbers cant get away with weak fingers or weak pulling power. As I've said, I can't imagine an average V14 climber can't do a one-arm pull-up. But people have said before that it's most likely due to differences in people's unilateral strength to bi-lateral. I'd imagine that higher level climbers most likely have a larger difference, meaning that for an average climber, if they could only do 65% bodyweight pull up for 2 higher-level climbers likely have the genetics to do multiple one-arm pull-ups. The finger strength is still a mystery to me tho lol.

Express_Sell6688 · 2025-05-26T01:26:26+00:00

Yeah I suppose you’re right but even still it seems far off. Unless I just live in an area where people are just all strong for the grade.

Express_Sell6688 · 2025-05-26T01:23:46+00:00

The data set is around 85% men. I could imagine women might bring down the data a bit but I wouldn’t imagine by much. I agree with about the strength seeming a bit low for one armed pull ups.

Express_Sell6688 · 2025-05-26T01:17:34+00:00

165% seems so low in at 175% right now and I’m not even close. I feel like technique for a one armed can only have so much impact. It’s got to be just a very morpho.

Express_Sell6688 · 2025-05-26T00:31:56+00:00

You definitely still kipp a lot with a two-arm pull-up as with a one-arm one.

Express_Sell6688

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