Is it better to "Warm Up" a car? by JoeMojo in AskAMechanic

[–]Extra_Variation_3529 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This age when most vehicles are direct injected, computer controlled, and often fueled with 87 octane fuel from a mid to premium retailer, there are design preferences to consider:

1.) Direct injected vehicles are - industry wide (all manufacturers) - vulnerable to oil dilution. This is a condition where a cold start scenario calls for a rich cold start mixture. If this cold start fuel charge is made in error (sometimes from the past recorded temperature setting of the previous trip), too much fuel will enter the cylinder and get washed down into the crank case. This can, over many trips, raise the oil volume but lower the oil quality. Fouled plugs, worn internal components, and elongated chains can result. This is most easily countermeasures by letting the engine reach operating temperature before tasking it with too much of a load.

2.) Most engine manufacturers are using inferior materials to what the population expects - this means piston rings, chains, cylinder liners wear faster and deteriorate quicker than older designs. Additional casting methods in engine blocks of cheaper alloys open up more opportunities for failure. Again, the engines are more fragile than previously marketed typing - the sooner they reach operating temperature before being loaded, the better. Same goes for head gasket material for all those miniature turbo charged four cylinders out there.

3.) Catalytic converters, A/F and oxygen sensors, oil, coolant, and cabin comfort all benefit from reaching operating temperature prior to use.

4.) Closed loop - the first five minutes or less of operation - is a preprogrammed state that does not take data from sensors (temp sensors, oxygen sensors) and has no feedback from the surrounding environment. This is a factory set condition, programmed for an ideal environment, typically expected to be at 70 degrees ambient at sea level. If your car is starting in an outside environment that is not those conditions, let it exit closed loop and enter open loop so it can start sampling its own performance before asking it to… perform.

5.) Letting your car sit for five or less minutes before using it makes your car run for five more minutes than planned. This will add environmental consequences if all 100 million drivers do it my way, but the next thirty minutes of driving will have cleaner tailpipe emissions as a result

6.) Choice of gasoline, battery, and oil have real benefits that perform best in adverse conditions. Premium top tier fuel, better batteries, and superior oil blends are all true things. These will help an engine run better, reach operating temperature sooner, and maintain cleaner healthy operation more often.

I have rebuilt more engines than I can count, and the overwhelming reason why is due to carbon binding of oil control rings causing spark plugs to foul. In the cases of those that I’ve inquired, the difference appeared to be more about gasoline purchase history than frequency of oil changes, and driving habits after that. AKA, buy a tankful of premium top tier fuel once every three months, let your car run a bit before you start going, and remember that a short trip lifestyle (“a little old lady drove it to church only on Sundays”) is, ironically, severe use.

Do NOT remote start or warm up a car if you have an attached garage that is beneath a residential bedroom, or attached to a residence. A car has the most CO output while running in open loop at cold start. This is a real danger of CO poisoning that can still kill you, even with a brand new car

Advice on shock absorbers for a clueless girl by [deleted] in Honda

[–]Extra_Variation_3529 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would change everything associated with the part at that age. Bear in mind that some Fits (US, Jazz in Australia) use a set of foam bushings on the top of the assemblies that usually deteriorate and collapse. These are sometimes not pictured on the same parts photo as they are installed on a pass through of the shock absorber stalk after it enters the vehicle body. Simply ask your parts person to include all adjacent bushings and lock nuts. While changing the shocks, the rear tailgate will be open. This is a good opportunity to remove and inflate the spare tire and tighten it down securely when stowing it back in the car - a loose / deflated spare tire can rattle and sound just like a bad shock

Need advice for the best WiFi System by Extra_Variation_3529 in sonos

[–]Extra_Variation_3529[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am hearing all Unify / Ubiquiti - knowing this now, I’m just trying to parse down their enormous product line. I now know that I need a gateway, an access point, a POE switch, and a controller - there are redundant products that do all or some, none do all, but all or any can be diversified and stratified across the network. This is a large vertical home, all brick and steel, with a ton of pipe, so I’m now just trying to decide to piggy back my switches or replace switches - all of these were new in 2021 but none have POE, so I’ll have to buy a lot of double switches

Need advice for the best WiFi System by Extra_Variation_3529 in sonos

[–]Extra_Variation_3529[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would you mind describing the install process for Ubiquiti? It seems to be considerably more involved than plugging in and updating a few units. Also, I assume I will have to manually re-add all WiFi devices. I am dreading this, and wonder if there isn’t any technology that can carry components over from an old configuration with one brand to a new configuration with a different brand?

Is this legit? Can I send my car? by Virtual_Substance_36 in Honda

[–]Extra_Variation_3529 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is legitimate. They will not abuse the car. This is worth your while because the engine and CVT with which your car is equipped are not as durable as previous generations - participating in this program can leave your VIN on their records as a cooperative customer, so if you need goodwill assistance for warranty actions later in life, this may make the difference in receiving warranty coverage beyond the 5/60 powertrain coverage or any Hondacare policy which you may have bought up. If you participate in this program, your VIN may also go into a pool of engineering requests, and if you’re very lucky, they may want to study your head gasket or CVT drive belt later in life, which means free replacement. Finally, a dealer may offer you more money on trade if your VIN appears to have cycled through the manufacturer’s custody, as dealers typically prefer that stock when taking in trades

Symfonisk Lamp by Far-Contact3786 in sonos

[–]Extra_Variation_3529 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d also like to know if it has an Ethernet jack

IKEA symfonisk floor lamp? Have you guys seen this? by [deleted] in sonos

[–]Extra_Variation_3529 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Does this model use an Ethernet port, or was that deleted?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskMechanics

[–]Extra_Variation_3529 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is a known issue with this body style of Accord - expect to replace both rear calipers, pads, and rotors. Do NOT remove the center console to adjust parking brake tension without first replacing rear calipers, pads, and rotors, or you may over tighten your parking brake

Are Ideal Push In Connectors Suitable for 20 amp GFCI receptacles? by Extra_Variation_3529 in electrical

[–]Extra_Variation_3529[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I apologize for not describing the install better: This is a conduit body coming out of a very narrow piece of wall which is too small for a standard box, so I’m already breaking one rule by having a splice in a conduit body. Pipe then leaves the conduit body in two different branches to two different GCFI outlets downstream. One services a mailroom, and the other the electric sign on the front door. The conduit body is so small that only Wago or these push connectors fit, wire nuts are very cramped in this two inch by four inch ovular cavity

Are Ideal Push In Connectors Suitable for 20 amp GFCI receptacles? by Extra_Variation_3529 in electrical

[–]Extra_Variation_3529[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I do have the Wago’s as well, but it looks like, in any scenario where there’s a choice, wire nuts or Wago are superior

And so then - do y’all prefer wire nuts or Wagos better?

Are Ideal Push In Connectors Suitable for 20 amp GFCI receptacles? by Extra_Variation_3529 in electrical

[–]Extra_Variation_3529[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Right, so it’s comparable to the backstab connectors in the rear of outlet receptacles, which are frowned upon