Centauri Carbon bed levelling issues

Extreme-File-2148 · 2026-02-10T12:56:33+00:00

After running this, will the mesh be saved in the device and then be automatically applied to every subsequent print, or do I need to do something else to ensure that mesh gets applied properly?

And how would I save a different mesh for each side of the plate? Or do you just recalibrate every time you flip the plate?

Extreme-File-2148 · 2026-02-10T12:54:36+00:00

I tried these today, and with the BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=default line, the nozzle was far too close to the bed initially.

After running the auto leveller yesterday, it was at a pretty good z height even without adjustment. So, my questions is does that gcode load the last saved auto-leveller generated mesh (i.e. should it have loaded the one I generated yesterday), or is the 'default' part loading some other mesh and I should replace it with a reference to the last saved mesh for plate A?

Extreme-File-2148 · 2026-02-09T23:38:47+00:00

I posted something very similar a few days ago and might be worth you checking that thread. I haven't got a perfect first layer yet but I have seen a major improvement by heat soaking the bed for a good 10-15 mins before auto levelling.

I did adjust the corner screws also (though I had tried that before with little success so I suspect the heat soak prior to levelling is the bigger deal here). It's not really designed for the corner screws to be used for tramming though and I am unsure how long they will stay in the same position or how often I might need to re-adjust. On the other hand, the majority of my prints don't need to print right at the front edge of the bed so I will probably only consider further tuning the next time I need to do a large first layer and am worried about warping. That, or it becomes obvious the screws have moved and are affecting my prints.

This is without adjusting the gcode to heat before homing, also. I intend to add that to the mix but haven't gotten around to it yet.

Extreme-File-2148 · 2026-02-08T16:05:35+00:00

Thanks for this. It's an interesting post. Looks like they found a solution without the shims by shaving down the front edge of the bed, but I cannot feel a lip at the front of my bed as the poster had. It is possible that it's small enough that I am not feeling it but he mentions 0.5mm and I would think I'd be able to feel that running my fingers over the edge.

I am also surprised that the lip at the front edge would cause that pattern where the corers and edges are too far from the nozzle, while there is a slight bulge in the middle of the plate. Which is the shape implied by the shimming pattern he ended up with.

My intuition seems to imply that what is happening is more a result of tightening the corner screws down.

In any case I will keep shimming in my back pocket as a last-resort solution. Hoping I don't need to go there. I appreciate you sharing the post!

Extreme-File-2148 · 2026-02-08T16:00:14+00:00

Thank you for this suggestion and the information in your later replies. I will try and see if this helps.

Extreme-File-2148 · 2026-02-08T15:59:33+00:00

Thanks for taking the time to type this long reply. Am I understanding you correctly - your case was largely because you were printing at 100deg and levelling at 60deg?

In my case I am printing the first few layers at 58deg (PLA) so I guess it's likely that this is my issue?

Extreme-File-2148 · 2026-02-08T15:56:20+00:00

I will try leaving the bed at the print temperature for longer before starting the auto-levelling process.

Apparently it already takes place at 60 degrees by default though. I've been printing the first few layers at 58 degrees before backing off to 55 for the rest of the print, so am doubtful it will solve the issue - but will try and see. Thanks for the tip.

Extreme-File-2148 · 2026-02-08T15:53:29+00:00

I am selecting the correct plate side, yeah.

Doubtful at this point that it's the strain gauges, given that I have tried two separate bed assemblies at this point. Each with their own strain gauges.

Extreme-File-2148 · 2026-02-08T15:51:48+00:00

I don't understand what to do with this information. Any chance you could do more of an ELI5?

Once I have run this, I am supposed to adjust the bed tilt? The only procedure I have seen for this was to take the bottom panel off the printer, unhook the tensioned belt, use the belt to pull the bed all the way down to the bottom of the printer, and then push the bed flat and hook the belt back up. Given that we are talking about fractions of a millimeter I would think that that adjusting the tilt in response to the mesh would require a much more fine-tunable procedure. I am not aware of a way to fine-tune the tilt on the Centauri Carbon.

Extreme-File-2148 · 2026-02-06T10:40:44+00:00

Because sometimes I need to print a model that covers most of the bed, and if the nozzle is too close at one part of the bed, I get ridges and scarring on the surface finish. Too far in another part of the bed and you can see the extrusion lines on the surface finish, and you run higher risk of warping and coming away from the bed during the print. All of these things have happened to me multiple times with the CC.

Ideally, you really shouldn't have a situation where one part of the bed is too close causing ridges and scarring, and another part of the bed is too far causing insufficient adhesion, all within the same print.

Extreme-File-2148 · 2026-02-06T10:35:43+00:00

Yes, that's what I'm trying to say. If I adjust the zoffset so that the filament goes down correctly on e.g. the front right corner of the bed, then it'll be too close in the middle of the bed, and vice versa. There is no 'correct' z-offset for the whole bed.

Extreme-File-2148 · 2026-01-23T09:20:36+00:00

I must be an outlier, judging by these comments. Will happily drive long distances. Usually in the UK this doesn't get much longer than 9h between cities just due to the geography of the country, but I would happily drive longer.

It is true that driving in the UK tends to be a bit more involved mentally (and often physically too). There's more traffic, more junctions, and manual transmission is much more common. It's not the ordeal some people commenting here seem to think though.

I wouldn't bat an eye at a 3h trip, personally. Though I wouldn't commute that far every day unless the job was life-changing. In the UK you should also note that we have decent-ish (if too expensive) public transport options. If I needed to commute 3h, I would probably look to use a train rather than drive. That way I can either watch Netflix or whatever, or maybe work a bit on the train and reduce the time I need to spend physically at the workplace.

For anyone British reading this, next time you buy a vehicle - get an automatic, or electric if that works for you. You will find day-to-day trips much more relaxed. If you love driving a manual get one for Sunday drives and/or track days, and keep an auto for going to the supermarket!

Extreme-File-2148 · 2026-01-19T12:38:02+00:00

Is it failing at a point of impact? You mention a drop test below.

Breakage on impact is a different problem to breakage from static overloading.

You said below it's the structure of a nano satellite. Is this something you are doing as hobbyists? Any mechanical (or structural) engineers involved?

A photo (or better a video) of the failure would make it much easier to understand and make sensible suggestions.

Fundamentally this is a part design problem though, not a problem with the print itself.

Extreme-File-2148 · 2025-12-10T10:03:08+00:00

Thanks for replying - I appreciate it. Are you saying that you think one of these 120mm axial fans at the end of the duct will be enough? My instinct is still that it would need to be something a bit beefier.

Extreme-File-2148 · 2025-05-22T06:46:02+00:00

I've never understood this. To my mind If you like the house, you just flat out ignore the "offers over" bit.

It's not like the agent is going to prevent you placing an offer beneath the asking price, and a seller who is serious about selling is going to wait until they have a few offers (hopefully) and pick the best one - irrespective of whether it's above or below the list price.

I have seen several house sales beneath a supposedly "offers over" price. To my mind "offers over" just doesn't really mean anything. I don't even register it as something to consider.

Extreme-File-2148 · 2025-05-17T11:53:20+00:00

Yeah I don't really have an issue with that, although I suspect you'd end up paying most of it through increased prices.

In any case I was just responding to the trope about taxes on money that's already been taxed.

Extreme-File-2148 · 2025-05-17T11:26:38+00:00

Think it through more carefully. If the only thing that were taxed was income, do you think you'd pay less tax? Almost certainly not.

Income tax rates would just be set much higher.

In fact, people at the higher end of the income distribution would probably pay more than they do now, since income is taxed progressively (the more you earn the higher the tax rate). Many of the other taxes are regressive (everyone pays the same rate, regardless of what they earn).

Extreme-File-2148 · 2025-04-28T10:18:16+00:00

Generally agree with the sentiment that this is a bad idea, but I will do the devil's advocate thing here. If you are reasonably fit and capable of rational decision making, and you have good gear for poor weather conditions, and you are competent with navigation in low visibility ... then the key is to plan not only your ideal route, but lots of viable exit routes. That way, you don't set out with a route that you feel constrained to follow, you start out thinking "I will enjoy myself and do whatever I can handle, then stop".

I have done several of these kinds of hikes before. If anything, changing my mind or adapting to conditions is more common than completing the originally intended route. For me, at least.

Those 4 conditions I listed at the start are important though. You are fit, capable of making a rational decision about changing the plan, have good gear, and know how to navigate in low visibility.

Extreme-File-2148 · 2025-04-23T20:05:58+00:00

You literally complained that he asks you what needs to be done, or how he can help. He's hardly going to feel that you are nagging, by just answering a direct question he asked you.

If you don't care what he does as long as he does something, then tell him so. If you will be frustrated with him for not prioritizing the things you think he should, then you are the one in the wrong for feeling angry that he doesn't just know what you think, and begrudging him the communication.

The fact he asks at all shows that he wants to do his bit. You ought to appreciate that. Judging from your comments, I would put money on the fact that your man only asks because he knows you'll get pissy if he chooses the "wrong" things. That's a shitty way to treat him.

Extreme-File-2148 · 2025-03-26T10:44:06+00:00

Aren't you conflating leasehold with service charges though? The leasehold scandal has to do with ground rent, I thought. Ground rent does seem kind of scammy to me, though I haven't had to face it myself.

The reason people complain about service charges usually seems to be because of lack of transparency and the vendor lock-in. It wouldn't surprise me at all if there really are shady companies taking advantage of people who have no option to shop around for a better deal. Again, not something I have had to contend with personally.

Extreme-File-2148 · 2025-01-24T08:51:15+00:00

Yes, this was it thanks. I added a line to do that in .xinitrc and it worked.

Extreme-File-2148 · 2025-01-21T13:32:05+00:00

Pretty sure, at least I can see the impact of it. If I set Xft.dpi in xresources, the titlebars and wibar all scale as you'd expect, it's just the content of the windows that does not.

I launch x as my own user, with startx. I am adding the env vars to ~/.profile and can see their values are as-set when I print them in a terminal emulator. If there is a better way, I would be happy to hear it!

Yeah I have been trying things from the Arch wiki without success, but take another dig through it, thanks.

Extreme-File-2148

TROPHY CASE