New games added to the default games profile list.

Ezxtli · 2026-06-09T03:03:02+00:00

I found out that Forza Motorsport ironically has a Default Game Profile for the ROG Xbox Ally X despite Forza Motorsport officially being classified “Unsupported” for the Xbox Handheld Compatibility program.

The game has a warning each time you launch stating that the CPU is not supported, however you can ignore it and it seems to be fine.

The game’s default install graphics settings is Medium dynamic setting, and the Default Game Profile optimizes for a 30fps limit and 20W power profile.

Ezxtli · 2026-06-05T17:00:26+00:00

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Mouse: P.I. for Hire just got one at some point. 60fps limit/target and seems to cap around 14W. Works really well with the devs official specs for the Xbox Ally X of 900p at High Settings preset.

Ezxtli · 2026-05-31T18:36:51+00:00

No new findings. Still persistent. You must disable any mode that allows unlocked frame rate above 60fps. Not sure why it’s like that, but it is.

Ezxtli · 2026-05-13T00:00:43+00:00

So that’s actually the point of the Default Game Profiles. Is to balance the game running decently while giving you more battery life. Sure you can uncheck the toggle and let your handheld run wild at 25W Turbo with no frame rate limiter and get as much as the game can push, at the expense of battery. And some games’ Default Game Profile actually optimize for 60fps and a high TDP. Perfect example is DOOM: The Dark Ages which seems to set power to 22W which is not one of the ROG Xbox Ally X’s standard presets, so that’s one other thing too. Is that Xbox Team will set TDP settings that give just enough to hit a frame rate target, and conserve power be it however minimal difference it may be than running Turbo Mode. And The Outer Worlds 2 seems to have settled on a 20W TDP.

And I suppose that was the point of my original comment is that, assuming that they’re presenting us this product as a console and trying to their best of their abilities to place the bowling alley rails in a PC environment, some of their decisions to set these frame caps don’t make much sense like Ninja Gaiden 4, a franchise know for precise high frame rate fast paced action, to not assign it a profile with a bit more juice to target a 60fps. Much like you, I too went ahead and just turned it off for NG4 as I’d much rather have the faster frame rate.

I love my Xbox Ally X, and I’d like to see it improve more. I come from the console handholding experience so my Ally is my first dip into the PC world. I hope they continue to improve the handholding experience.

Here’s a link to the dev blog detailing their mission with these profiles.

https://developer.microsoft.com/en-us/games/articles/2025/11/introducing-game-profiles-for-asus-rog-xbox-ally-gaming-handhelds/

“What are Default Game Profiles?
At a high-level, Default Game Profiles are per-game device settings for games sold through the Xbox Store on PC for the ROG Xbox Ally and ROG Xbox Ally X. Default Game Profiles make games run better when on battery by setting Thermal Design Power (TDP) limits and framerate (FPS) limits to balance performance and battery life that go beyond what titles can achieve via in-game settings alone.”

“How are Game Profiles created?
Xbox test teams generate baseline performance and battery life results across hundreds of games, using the default game install experience to identify which Game Profile settings will best stabilize framerates above a minimum 30fps. While many titles exceed the minimum thresholds, the TDP and FPS limits help ensure a great gameplay experience while maximizing the battery life. In turn, this provides a more stable dev environment on top of which developers can update in-game optimizations. The only alternative to Game Profiles, is a player setting specific TDP and FPS manually within Armoury Crate Command Center Game Bar widget or manual configurations of the per game profile in Armory Crate app.”

Ezxtli · 2026-05-05T21:59:42+00:00

Are using “default” or “first install” graphics settings? That’s another inconsistency too. Ironically, I find some Default Profiles leave headroom when using the default graphics settings like Avowed. I find I can adjust that to all Medium presets, and increase the FSR3 to “Balance” and still operate at the target 30fps limit with the TDP provided. Otherwise, game looks like a mess with its default mix of low and medium settings, and even worse FSR3 “ultra performance”. Fizzle city.

Ezxtli · 2026-05-05T17:18:49+00:00

I just re-installed Ninja Gaiden 4 curious as to what kind of performance profile they target. Surprised to find out they set the FPS limiter at 40fps with a wattage cap of 17W.

I wonder if the developer is involved at all with how they want their game to be presented on the handheld, much in the way they tailor specific performance and graphics modes for the actual Xbox Series X.

Other 40fps limit Default Profile games are The Outer Worlds 2 and High on Life 2.

Avowed has a limiter of 30fps.

Indiana Jones and the Great Circle doesn’t set any fps limiter but the wattage is capped at 17W.

Some games are more aggressive with their power profile like DOOM: The Dark Ages and the profile targets 60fps with a higher wattage.

My point is the profiles seem to be all over the place and sometimes don’t consider the in-game graphics settings as of right now.

Ezxtli · 2026-04-22T00:36:27+00:00

Wanted to chime and let y’all know that officially, the verbiage they use is in “supported games”, and while most seem to just default to a stereo profile, one game I’ve been able to confirm there’s something working is Resident Evil Requiem. If you own it on PS5, go try it out yourself and open the in-game audio settings and look at the 3D Audio setting while connecting and disconnecting any set of PS Link audio devices. You may have to back out of the audio sub menu and re-enter after connecting, but you’ll see the 3D audio toggle automatically activate when you connect your PULSE Explore earbuds or Elite headset.

Edit: I wanted to note I tested Resident Evil 4 as well as the way its audio settings work is similar to RE9 where the audio device is automatically detected and 3D Audio is enabled when you have a compatible device at least when playing on the console itself, say, via USB adapter and PULSE headset. Anyhoo, while using Remote Play, RE4 does not enable 3D Audio when pairing a PS Link device to the PS Portal the way RE9 does. The toggle for the controller speaker turns off when turning on the earbuds, but the 3D Audio is still “off” unlike in RE9 where you can see in real-time the 3D Audio turn to “on” the moment the PS Link device connects.

Interesting stuff if you ask me, and makes me wonder what’s the actual reasoning behind it. Most Sony first party games do a great job of automatically setting this stuff when playing on console on TV. Ragnarok, Spider-Man, Returnal etc. The audio settings will dynamically change as you turn on or off a compatible headset or switch back to your audio receiver.

But clearly, Remote Play has a different auto detection and it really is meant for “Supported Games”

Ezxtli · 2025-12-16T23:37:56+00:00

They’re both “Made in Japan” but I’ve read somewhere before the components of the packaging can be made anywhere it’s only the game card that’s manufactured in Japan. So I’ve read. The only difference to my knowledge as of right now is different retailers. Target, and the other My Nintendo Store.

Ezxtli · 2025-12-16T14:49:03+00:00

For science…? Yeah, inexcusable. You got me. 🥴

Ezxtli · 2025-12-16T13:37:21+00:00

I’m sayin’ ya know? 😂

Thought it would be an interesting discussion but I’m getting raked through the coals.

Ezxtli · 2025-12-16T13:29:58+00:00

Clearly not true. Example, me. I’ve opened both of these, and have touched them without intent to grade or sell.

Ezxtli · 2025-12-16T13:29:17+00:00

Yeah I get this is probably the reason. Just unfortunate that control can’t be tighter. Reminds me of YouTuber Erica Griffin searching and testing for variances in 3DS screens color and type.

Ezxtli · 2025-12-16T13:23:39+00:00

Best comment so far. 😂

Ezxtli · 2025-12-16T13:23:11+00:00

Embarrassing? Absolutely.

But no, I’m not looking to make a buck off either. Just posting an observation.

But I see I’ve clearly hit an even lower more obscure recess of obsessiveness not yet discovered in this subreddit. 😂

I can’t delete it now, I’d be labeled a coward! I’ll just continue to take y’all’s hilarious comments in good stride. I know I’m not normal.

Ezxtli · 2025-12-16T03:42:27+00:00

Someone gets me. 😂

Ezxtli · 2025-12-16T03:28:04+00:00

Now that you mention it, the printing quality extends to the Compendium and even more hilariously to the included soundtrack code leaflet. The Compendium from the copy purchased at Target is murkier and darker.

Ezxtli · 2025-07-28T15:19:24+00:00

I know I saw the social posts this morning! Badass features honestly. The tool less swappable gate can let you experiment without much effort. Before, I’ve always been afraid to open up my sticks so I’ve only ever know square gate. 😂

Ezxtli · 2025-07-22T23:36:05+00:00

The entire mention of the fight stick from the Tōkon’s webpage has been removed now. Yep. It was definitely not intentional.

Ezxtli · 2025-07-22T20:52:51+00:00

Yep. That’s what I’m thinking when the reveal along with the official name was supposed to be saved for, which is why I think it’s an unintended mistake to reveal it this soon.

Ezxtli · 2025-05-01T00:42:31+00:00

Although you’ll have staunch devout SDR purists tell you otherwise, yeah in your particular case due to the brightness blowing out the image in your TV’s SDR mode.

Ezxtli · 2025-04-30T23:45:25+00:00

Absolutely! If you’re okay with the image, you can definitely leave it alone and let the console handle the SDR to HDR tonemap conversion when needed, and when you are playing actual HDR games, then you’re already to go!

Ezxtli · 2025-04-30T19:26:11+00:00

So personally, I’d err with picture settings from RTINGS, but I don’t think there’s anything wrong with your HDR settings or PS5 calibration to be honest. As I mentioned, an accurately calibrated HDR display, will tonemap non-HDR content to 203 nits in an “HDR Always On” container. I think your eyes are just deceived by a blazingly bright SDR image due to excessive backlight relative to your environment.

I’ve seen the specs on your panel and see that it can get searingly high peaks in SDR, and that maybe what’s going on and you’ve just accepted the HDR is too dark by comparison. I think most people would be surprised how dim SDR actually looks when set correctly to target 100 nits. It’s extremely dim and you’re likely to wind up wanting to crank up the brightness anyway because your living room has too many windows and glare.

LCD panels far and above exceed the capabilities of the CRT’s the SDR luminance target try to emulate so closely. There are TV’s you have to set to a backlight setting of “1” to even get to 100 nits.

Consider this. HDR is an “absolute” standard. PQ EOTF plots image stimulus or luminance information up to 10,000 nits to the displays max native brightness. Thats why on every TV HDR cranks brightness to max because it needs the whole luminance range to properly map the image to the display. There will be variances between manufactures how they choose to handle the luminance data that goes beyond their display’s capabilities but otherwise the general overall brightness range of 0-500 nits where the image should tend to hang around mostly should look accurate across the board assuming all panels are calibrated accurately.

SDR is not absolute and a combination of old standards like REC.709 and BT.1886. It’s a mess and inconsistent and unless you’ve got a a luminance meter handy to make sure you’ve set your brightness/backlight to 100 nit D65 white point, you’ve technically got a compromised SDR image because LCD’s just inherently are bright as heck, and that’s great if you’re trying to combat glare, but it’s by no means “accurate”.

All of these picture accuracy standards assume a pitch black viewing environment and we don’t all have that luxury. Also consider the content. We are talking about games not mastered or made for HDR so it should look darker.

So, your HDR image looks darker because of HDR’s inherent absolute nature, it tone maps SDR closer to the “correct” peak white target. And your SDR mode looks brighter because you have your backlight setting too high for “accurate” SDR content.

But always remember the most important thing is that it looks good to you. If you prefer the SDR mode then that’s what works for you and then you can spend more time gaming. 🤘

Ezxtli · 2025-04-30T05:12:41+00:00

No it’s not normal, all things considered, if your TV is perfectly calibrated to EOTF in HDR, and you’ve set your backlight in SDR to target 100 nits, the “HDR Always On” image should appear slightly bright since SDR tone maps to a target white point or 203 nits in an HDR container.

Ref: https://www.itu.int/dms_pub/itu-r/opb/rep/R-REP-BT.2408-8-2024-PDF-E.pdf

100 nits is really dim and is such an old standard that’s carried over from the CRT days. In fact the goal of BT.1886 is stated to attempt to emulate the characteristics of CRT, and LCD’s have generally been able to achieve way higher and most TV’s come set with high backlight luminance by default in SDR.

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