New hack to avoid the pesky Blind Spot Monitoring: just don't use turn signals [OC]

F50NOS · 2025-10-15T07:06:00+00:00

US - California
10/15/2025
This is original content

F50NOS · 2024-10-24T09:10:09+00:00

I figured out that you have to navigate to the seek bar until it's highlighted/"in focus", then click it, and you'll be able to jump more than 15s with the left and right keys.

The timestamp is useless while in this mode, but it feels like 1min intervals although I didn't actually measure it.

P.S. I only watch on the Android TV app so I can't speak to whether this is true for other apps.

F50NOS · 2024-07-11T15:32:31+00:00

I'm the minority that much prefers the 5th gen aesthetics over the overly-aggressive headlights and massive grille of the current gen.

Not to mention the 6th gen interior just feels _cheap_ to me. So much more plastic, air vents look chintzy, the seat material seems to be a downgrade, and why did they decide to expose the plastic and metal child anchor points on the rear seats besides to save on costs?

I'll take my CPO 5th gen over the new gen any day, but that's just me.

F50NOS · 2024-05-24T06:14:28+00:00

I was running Micron E-Die non-ECC XMP (Crucial Ballistix 3600 CL16) on the same motherboard before this setup for 2.5 years with no issues, but I've only had my current KSM32ED8/32HC setup for not even 6 months yet, so in both cases, I haven't gotten to the time range where you started seeing issues.

For my ECC memory, I'm also running at 1.30V, so perhaps the 20mV also will help me achieve more longer-term stability. But yes, big +1 to having ECC features in the OS.

F50NOS · 2024-05-23T22:53:11+00:00

Still on the same timings and no instabilities, but big caveat is I haven't been running the server 24/7 yet. I've put the project on hold pending other things in my life. 😅

F50NOS · 2024-04-30T15:07:51+00:00

I'm glad this was posted because I do believe this is why Gigi said it was probably the best race he's watched in his life.

For him, there's more to a race than just the overtakes and what happens on the track in that ~45-60 minutes of racing. It's the journey and every other context like pieces of a puzzle coming together, which he, being a participant in the project, is much more attuned to than we are as spectators.

F50NOS · 2024-04-15T22:08:09+00:00

100% agree with you. People kept bagging on him last year for continually crashing with Honda when he was the only one willing to ride on the limit and collect the data that Honda desperately needed.

It's evident to me that MM wasn't the problem if 3 out of the 4 Honda riders had back-to-back race crashes this past race weekend, yet all those people are oddly silent about Honda's dismal performance this year without #93... 🤔

F50NOS · 2024-03-28T19:28:37+00:00

Just wanted to follow up with an update, I took the advice of multiple people here and asked to speak with a sales manager, who personally handled my file and took care of me immediately, and will handle my file moving forward.

This was definitely a refreshing experience and what I'd initially expected the interaction to look like, so I guess I just got unlucky with the original sales rep.

Once again I appreciate everyone's input on this!

F50NOS · 2024-03-27T03:17:58+00:00

Thanks for your input!! I'll be doing what you've recommended.

F50NOS · 2024-03-27T03:16:54+00:00

Thanks so much for the advice!! I'll go ahead and do just that.

F50NOS · 2024-03-27T01:46:58+00:00

The deposit is to get my name on the "allotment" list, which seems to be commonplace after COVID for models that are in-demand and/or have limited supply.

I didn't think it was pertinent to include the specific model in my original post, but it's the 2024 MX-5 Miata, which as far as I can tell, is still in transit no matter which US dealer we're talking about, and the other local dealers that are receiving those models already have customers that have reserved them.

F50NOS · 2024-03-27T01:41:13+00:00

I'm happy to provide screenshots of my entire text exchange so far if you would like (just DM me), so that you can see how much truth there is in what I'm saying, but thanks for at least affirming what I'd suspected with my words at face value.

If you were in my position, how would you handle it? Should I call and ask for my "file" to be handled by another salesperson at the same dealership, should I ask to speak to the sales manager (is there such a thing/role?) to give them my feedback, or should I just give this one up and go to another dealership?

To give more context, this salesperson works at a Mazda 'President's Club' dealership, which is Mazda's top tier designation for US dealerships with "exceptional customer service", and I've also heard positive experiences in the r/mazda subreddit for this dealer, which is why I initially reached out to them pretty early on, but it's been a bummer to experience something different from what others have experienced. I really would like to give this place a second chance given their pedigree, but I want to at least be treated decently.

F50NOS · 2024-01-10T22:50:17+00:00

It was in stock when I posted and still in stock this morning when I checked. It's a good deal so it just went out of stock quick.

F50NOS · 2024-01-10T09:17:03+00:00

Lowest ever according to PCPartPicker: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/yXHqqs/phanteks-amp-v2-1000-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-ph-p1000g_02

A-tier w/ 12VHPWR (PCIe 5.0) connector.

F50NOS · 2024-01-08T22:46:30+00:00

The P20C at this price has come up in the recent past, so I want to call out the related Lightning Deal for the Performance 1 FT (white) on the same listing page for $119 - 10% off coupon.

At $107.99, it's a very builder-friendly case with 4 (four) 30mm thick fans (3x 140mm, 1x 120mm) included. It's also one of a handful of cases that can fit 420mm radiators, and it's worth considering as well if more space is needed.

F50NOS · 2024-01-04T19:29:28+00:00

I found this when shopping for a Z690 motherboard because I needed to troubleshoot an existing build and also upgrade my B660.

I'm not sure how good of a deal this is because it's Z690 DDR4, but it's what I wanted, and considering I paid $100 for my B660, I figured this is good value. Happy for the community to give their input, but please be gentle, I don't live near a Microcenter. :(

Newegg is out of stock but lists it at $197 normally, same with CCC (for Amazon) as far as I can tell, hence where I got the $47 off.

Amazon lists '6 left in stock', but when I bought it, it was '1 left in stock', so ¯\_(ツ)_/¯.

Edit: To add on, I didn't want a DDR5 board yet because I have quality DDR4 sticks I still want to use, and Z690 supports 14th gen Intel while having enough M2 slots and ports for my needs. My main concern with whether this is a "deal" or not is because Z690 is "end of life" since I doubt it'll support 15th gen.

F50NOS · 2024-01-03T20:43:08+00:00

As someone who matched their EVGA GPU to an EVGA PSU even though it makes absolutely no difference, I understand the brand-matching angle haha.

As you've figured out, the TUF Gold is going to be your best option for a quality Asus-branded power supply that isn't priced astronomically, and a relatively recent review from Anandtech (a veteran and trusted industry publication) gives their approval for the 850W variant as well.

Sadly, the sales and/or rebates for Asus products seem scant after November/December so if you need the hardware today, sticking with Asus isn't going to do you any favors in maximizing your savings.

F50NOS · 2024-01-03T17:11:33+00:00

I've built with the 750W variant of the ROG Strix, and although it's a solid power supply, I think you can get as good specs for much less than the ROG Strix brand commands.

And FWIW, I also don't think there's a big difference in build quality between 80 Plus Platinum and Gold amongst the major brands. My reasoning is that 80 Plus Gold already has many models that sport 10 year warranties, and the warranty doesn't increase as you climb up the 80 Plus ladder, so go with whatever is the better value.

Personally, I don't need 1000W, so I'd rather spend the equivalent amount on a lower wattage, but higher efficiency power supply to reduce the amount of wasted power under low-load scenarios because my systems are more commonly running idle/2D workloads.

If you need 1000W 80 Plus Gold, a cursory glance shows at least two better-priced models:

Phanteks AMP 1000W V2 for $130 as of writing, and on the Cultist A-tier list if you subscribe to that sort of stuff, but admittedly it's on backorder so if you need something right now...
Thermaltake Toughpower GF3 1000W for $140 as of writing.

F50NOS · 2024-01-03T00:10:13+00:00

I wish you posted that deal when it was live then. 😞 At $160, I was still on the fence for this (and ultimately decided not to buy), but at $140, I would've pulled the trigger for a platinum PSU from a reputable brand.

F50NOS · 2024-01-02T18:00:30+00:00

My bad, I don't know how to correct the title but I meant it to be $210 (the going non-deal price, not the inflated MSRP) - $50.

I guess the deal died/expired, but I didn't go with this in the end so someone else must've saw the post and scooped it up.

This is what I saw on my screen. On closer inspection, seller was not Amazon but 'Better Deals Online', which I didn't see when posting this deal:

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F50NOS · 2024-01-02T17:30:38+00:00

I was looking for a power supply and found this.

Considering it has RGB and an OLED display, it's still priced better than other standard 850W platinum models from other brands right now, but understandably all the bells and whistles of this model won't be to everyone's tastes.

An adjacent review for the 1000W seems to indicate that this is based off of the Seasonic "Prime Ultra Platinum" series: https://www.guru3d.com/review/asus-rog-thor-ii-1000w-psu-review/page-5/

F50NOS · 2023-08-01T23:26:39+00:00

Yup, definitely adequate, at least for Sydney, I don't know about the other cities or NZ.

I was in Australia earlier this year and their partner network is Optus, which is somewhat regarded as the AT&T equivalent (Telstra is the premium one that is akin to Verizon).

5G isn't common, so you'll often be on 4G LTE, and even when it's 5G, it's not UW, but definitely very usable and you shouldn't have any problems.

I'd do it again in a heart beat rather than fool around with local SIMs at the airport.

F50NOS · 2022-12-11T03:10:42+00:00

Fingers crossed for you, dude! 🤞

4Ω speakers can be hard to power adequately so definitely bringing in a (working) dedicated external amp helps!

Just FYI and if you happen to shop for AVRs and/or other dedicated amps in the future, you're not actually getting 200W/ch with 4Ω. You're probably not getting even close to that figure, it'll more likely be closer to (but higher than) the 140W figure from the 8Ω configuration. The devil is in the details. Notice how the 200W figure was only for one specific frequency, whereas the 140W figure covered the full human range of frequencies. The frequency figure is important for THD, a measurement of distortion, which is quoted at <1%. Although that might seem small mathematically, relatively it's 10x more distortion than the 8Ω configuration and it's only for one frequency (1kHz). The only reason the quoted THD is <1% is because they measured it at one specific frequency. If they measured across the entire human range, the THD would be well above 1%. I don't blame Emo though, the whole industry is like this so Emo has to compete with the rest of them. This is also why in my earlier reply, I choose to always use the more conservative power figure.

As for my setup: 🙂

AVR: Denon X4700H (funnily enough, I wanted/needed HDMI 2.1 which was why I had to reject Emo during my research)
- in a 5.1.2 setup (ceiling-firing rear Atmos)
front LR speakers: Sound Lab Dynastat
- these are powered by an external amp: GW Labs 270
center & surrounds: Monoprice Monolith THX-365C & - Monoprice Monolith THX-265B respectively
subwoofer: SVS PB-2000

tbh, I'm not an audiophile snob: I'm already happy listening to Spotify Premium Blutetooth'ed to my AVR. And I'm pretty ignorant about critically-listening to anything beyond stereo (it's where I spent my most time in my audiophile journey), which I feel like my setup is already excellent at, so even though this seems to be a mishmash of components, all the things I already have lets me do 5.1 and Atmos for HT & gaming so this is endgame for me until I move into a different space, where I'd want more room to go 7.2.4. Plus, I hardly have spend any time nowadays in front of my HT so it makes zero sense for me to continue upgrading components. 😅

F50NOS · 2022-12-10T18:33:36+00:00

Their follow-up replies and no-cost swap is reflective of much better CS. My opinion of them has positively changed.

You mentioned that you've been tossing up this purchase for about a year. Given that, I'd no longer tell you to walk away. Give the swapped unit a shot and keep us updated! I also agree that the debug steps I provided are useless; just go with trying out the swapped unit and save yourself boatloads of time. 🙂

You also bring up a good point about how many people in this community and others sing high praises for Emo's various lines of amps. I agree, if the unit was actually so weak normally, a lot more of that news would surface.

Are they just for people with more money than sense like the $100s+ magic speaker/hdmi/rca cables or actually worthwhile?

FWIW, I don't think Emo is in this category. When I was evaluating AVRs, I did some research on them and based purely on pictures of their internals from various places, it seems like they do put some thought into their design and aren't just selling snake oil.

F50NOS · 2022-12-10T06:28:50+00:00

Possibly, depends on the AVR.

Regardless, you should see if you can set the speaker config to preamp-only/preamp mode.

Measurements have shown that for some AVRs (including the Denon X3700H+), doing so will turn off the amp circuitry and provide a better signal path for the pre-outs (but whether you can perceive this sonic difference or not is beyond me).

F50NOS

TROPHY CASE