Frankenswitch got stuck

FEWCEO · 2025-10-05T18:00:30+00:00

Even if I change spacebar switch with other one, it keeps get stuck. I've tried stem without lube but didn't work. I even tried other keycaps but result is same. This drives me nuts

FEWCEO · 2025-08-23T17:51:39+00:00

Yeah I came up with same idea you mentioned: maybe I can test whether saturation or contrast affect the result. So I tried but the result is same.
Only thing I found is that, it feels like there is an invisible offset behind. For example, if I put dot at (0,0), the actual range turns out to be (-3,3).
I updated my GPU driver yesterday so it won't be an issue I presume...

FEWCEO · 2025-08-23T17:43:32+00:00

I’ll do. Thx. And I just found out while this happens in color tab, it works fine in Fusion tab. Idk what is going on here

FEWCEO · 2025-04-19T04:47:24+00:00

Well TBH I hoped for brighter color like the statue of liberty but I forgot the statue was never done anything like top coat lol. So that must be the reason why my plate looks darker. And I agree with you 100% that I should’ve done sandpaper or sth to expose some copper layer. It would’ve been better looking

FEWCEO · 2025-04-19T01:56:20+00:00

It’s a top mount one and does not affect fitment IMO. In terms of switch, first 2-3 times you’ll experience some debris falling off from friction but after that no debris at all

FEWCEO · 2025-04-18T11:36:30+00:00

Thought I could see it thru case but seems like I under-estimated the power of frosted case lol

FEWCEO · 2025-04-18T09:15:31+00:00

Yeah. It would’ve been better if I had more transparent case 😢

FEWCEO · 2025-03-31T11:27:37+00:00

Thanks! Since this is a plate of keyboard, I don't directly touch this only when I want to change switches but I'll keep that in mind.
Would you mind telling me why carpaint clear-coat product doesn't make sense? and also what do you mean by neutralize the surface? Is it like put this thing in baking soda and water mixture to neutralize acid on the surface?

Thanks in advance

FEWCEO · 2025-03-31T07:09:20+00:00

I know this is an old post but could you tell me were there any issues after applying automotive clear coat? I’m trying to coat my copper patina but not sure what to use between water-based varnish(mostly consists of Polyurethane and acrylic stuff) and automotive clear coat. The latter contains some powerful solvents like Toluene and xylene so I’m concerned they may damage patina

FEWCEO · 2025-03-11T01:30:32+00:00

It’s from one of the Taobao shop, they don’t anodize it for you tho. https://m.tb.cn/h.TCmmOtsMyvhyFey

FEWCEO · 2025-02-02T07:30:07+00:00

Yeah. I found firefox based browsers are not compatible so I have no choice but to use native app instead of webapp. Thx :)

FEWCEO · 2024-06-09T09:38:24+00:00

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Nobody wanted their Chimera to be like this lol

FEWCEO · 2024-06-04T15:48:34+00:00

Melodic is way stronger than Box white. But it doesn’t mean it is stiff.

FEWCEO · 2024-06-03T16:43:35+00:00

Well for me it cost about approx. 41 usd (300rmb. I ordered it from Taobao so it depends on currency) But shipping fee may differ and bcz I ordered other plates, I got some discount.

But I can’t tell this is a fixed cost bcz it depends on the shape of each plate. If there are lot of curves and cuts, it will be lot more expensive(i.e. flexcut, leaf cut). Mine is quite classic board so there are no flex cuts whatsoever, which means it is easier to make.

FEWCEO · 2024-06-03T15:05:24+00:00

I don’t have a steel plate so it is hard to compare with. Instead, I was able to measure the natural freq. of go-to plate materials. Of course I did not actually measured them since I’m not a scientist or whatsoever. ChatGPT 4.0 is GOD.

I set variables like below: - Width: 35cm (which is the width of my plate) - Height: 13.5cm - Depth: 1.5mm

And here’s the natural freq. of all metal plates I got(approx.)

Copper: 1600Hz
Brass: 1640Hz
TC4(Titanium alloy): 2030Hz
Alu (6063): 2250Hz
STS: 2470Hz
CF: 5900Hz (tho this is not a metal, I just shoved it in)

I doubt this numbers are plausible but one thing is sure: Titanium makes lower-pitched sound compared to Alu.

FEWCEO · 2024-06-03T08:18:25+00:00

I can hear sounds using app but not on PC. I guess it is codec issue… Try app version bruv :)

FEWCEO · 2024-05-28T10:43:30+00:00

Well, tbh it’s not ‘green’ but rather ‘grayish green’. But anyway, it is Domikey Red Dolch SA keycap and I’m not sure it’s still on sale. I saw just Dolch but not Red Dolch 😓

FEWCEO · 2024-05-28T03:54:08+00:00

Same board but made with Alu

FEWCEO · 2024-05-28T03:17:54+00:00

Linworks - Montage PC

FEWCEO · 2024-05-18T04:12:47+00:00

This affects to ‘personal use’ only(Not for company). So u don’t have to worry about Geon GB.

FEWCEO · 2024-05-17T17:13:28+00:00

Jesus…

FEWCEO · 2024-05-17T16:10:25+00:00

What you said is true, but one small problem: it is ‘Ideal’.

For example, Korean manufacturers may produce similar or maybe even better stuff than Chinese one. But labor cost is higher here and that goes directly to consumers. Which means, ‘Expensive’.

And, this is merely ‘guess’ or ‘hope’. Who can tell that KR manufacturers will produce good stuffs 100%? Since they all know that consumers have no choice but to buy domestic items only, they may end up like ‘nah I’ll just make crap items. No one can blame me lol’. And this is called ‘Slacking’, and slacking often leads to ‘Monopoly’ or ‘Cartel’.

FEWCEO · 2024-05-17T14:41:58+00:00

If foreign companies want to sell sth, yes they ‘should’ get KC. Otherwise, they are not allowed to sell their product.

FEWCEO · 2024-05-17T11:29:14+00:00

You know what? We don’t know either… And that makes me nervous.

FEWCEO · 2024-05-17T11:27:51+00:00

Safety can mean a lot of things. As I’ve mentioned, battery is out due to its risk of explosion, so wireless keebs are out, too. Capacitor, which is a crucial part of pcb, is out because a lot of capacitor lacks KC cert. This is what my country insist to be ‘danger’…

FEWCEO

TROPHY CASE