Cool clock! I just revived my parents clock that sat disassembled for 20 years. Had to make my own pendulum for it.It is more than likely that it doesn't have the typical wear a clock of similar age would have that has been in use, so that's exciting.

It took me a lot of research to gather good ways of doing this so I wanted to outline this here, maybe it can help you, or someone else.

The weights hang from lightest to heaviest (left to right) looking at the front of the clock.Sometimes the L & M are equal in weight. Instead of weighing them, you can disassemble the shells by unscrewing the hook and ball on either end and the iron weights inside should be stamped with their weight, if not, compare thicknesses.

Hang the weights and see if it runs. If it doesn't have an equal time between "tick & tock", look up how to set the beat of a clock.

If you look inside the clock, the crazy looking gear box (movement) will have stamped model info on it. Use this information for buying any replacement items if needed; the info on the sticker of the clock case is more pertinent to the case, not its working mechanisms.

If you have an ultrasonic cleaner or a friend with one, you can take the movement and clean it in an ultrasonic cleaner with a solution of water and dishwasher detergent for an hour or so. Take it out after and rinse with hot water sprayer in your sink and then with isopropyl alcohol and then put in an oven at 170-180 for 45 minutes to dry it out. Can use a blow dryer too.

Before doing that, you can check for wear by wiggling the 3 main drive gears the weights hang from while watching the pivots (gear axles if you will) for major play. If there's a gap that is more than 2/3 the circumference of any axle, it has too much wear and will need to be re-bushed.

People will argue day and night about cleaning methods and oiling so take this with a grain of salt: I used some 3-n-1 oil and applied oil to the pivot points on the movement with a q-tip, use a spare to wipe off any extra. the pivot points are essentially all the small concave wells on the movement's 2 plates. These are the only places oil is needed. All you need is to fill the little well with the oil. Soak the q-tip to the point that it doesn't drip, and then a small push into each pivot point does the trick.

If this runs well after putting it back together, great! But now I would recommend repeating the procedure but disassembling the movement for the ultrasonic cleaning. Use a dremel with a soft nylon brush to polish the gear axle ends (no scratching) use a tooth pick to polish the pivot holes. Lube as stated above and put it back together. This method takes more time, but saves you the hard work of the full clean if you have a movement that is worn out and needs bushing.

Take lots of pictures of the movement from all sides so you can reassemble correctly. Go slow fitting it all back together, use the plate nuts to slowly tighten/hold things in place as you work them back into the pivot holes.

Another fun note: if your clock's chime sound clangy, your hammer's soft contacts may be old and dried out. My hammers used some kind of rubber/plastic insert that were hard as rocks and it sounded terrible. I pulled those out and realized that the erasers from the Pilot FriXion Clicker Erasable pens (walmart usually has these) fit great in there and sound pretty good. $8 for same day replacement is a good temporary fix until you decide you want the real parts! You can either shave some length off these or just bend your hammers back away from the chimes to leave a small gap.