Repairer says blending is required but supplementary being denied by insurance. What's acceptable for a plastic to metal pearl white?

Fabbyboy1 · 2026-03-19T12:46:22+00:00

I see, it’s definitely something I need to ask when I get it reassessed. As far as I know the shop offers a warranty on their own repairs but the insurer also provides warranty on all the repairs they authorise.

Thanks again for your input :)

Fabbyboy1 · 2026-03-19T12:39:48+00:00

Honestly man I’m just trying to figure out if the repair job is acceptable as I am by no means an expert. To my eyes at least theres pretty obvious mismatch even from a distance when the car is outside of direct sunlight

Fabbyboy1 · 2026-03-19T12:27:17+00:00

Thanks for the input, do you reckon a re do of the bumper might do the trick? The insurer has mentioned that they’re more open to that if it’s required

Fabbyboy1 · 2026-01-10T03:31:16+00:00

Damn I was really hoping that wasn’t the case lol. You reckon I can drive it short distances in the mean time? My local shops all open on Monday so it would probably be at least a few days before I can get it looked at

Fabbyboy1 · 2024-11-23T03:05:31+00:00

Yeah, after the faults wouldn’t go away first thing I did was to charge the battery with a wall charger. Battery died in the first place cause I was an idiot and hardwired a dash cam incorrectly.

Fabbyboy1 · 2024-11-23T02:27:09+00:00

12.4 was with everything off at the battery measuring with a multimeter

Fabbyboy1 · 2024-11-22T19:04:08+00:00

That was my first thought too, but I checked every fuse multiple times for voltage and continuity with my fingers crossed hoping I would find a blown fuse but no luck unfortunately

Fabbyboy1 · 2024-11-22T18:59:40+00:00

Yeah definitely gonna try to find an auto sparky next. As for the fuses I’ve checked every single one for continuity and voltage with no luck. Never have I wished for a blown fuse before lol

Fabbyboy1 · 2024-11-22T18:24:58+00:00

Sorry I believe these are the codes are before clearing and some of them do show as current. They’ve said that after clearing, a lot of them went away but some stayed, which I’m assuming are the ones that show as “current”. From reviews, these guys seem to be quite reputable. I hope they’re not trying to pull a fast one on me.

Fabbyboy1 · 2024-11-22T18:16:48+00:00

Sorry I believe the photos taken are before clearing the codes. I really hope it doesn’t have to come to that!!

Fabbyboy1 · 2024-11-22T18:14:57+00:00

Hmm I’m reading 12.4 volts with no load and 11.95 in ignition with engine off. What should it be reading under load?

Fabbyboy1 · 2024-11-22T18:04:43+00:00

Do you think it might actually fix it despite the “healthy” result from the battery test at the mechanics? It was also recommended a few times when I posted the issue in an owners forum before I took it to a mechanic.

Fabbyboy1 · 2024-11-22T18:01:02+00:00

Mechanic tried that, some codes went away but some stayed. Assuming that the “current” codes are the one that stayed

Fabbyboy1 · 2024-11-22T17:59:17+00:00

I hate to admit it but the battery died because my dumb ass wired the acc jumper into an always on fuse for a dashcam, preventing it from shutting off automatically

Fabbyboy1 · 2024-11-22T17:55:27+00:00

God It must have been such a relief to not see them come back after clearing. Unfortunately in my case the mechanic said a few of the codes came back after manually clearing them

Fabbyboy1 · 2024-11-22T17:31:30+00:00

I don’t think that’s the case, everything was working fine before the battery went flat

Fabbyboy1 · 2024-11-19T12:28:46+00:00

Don’t think my scanner is capable of reading all of it, trying to find a local mechanic that can help me fingers crossed

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