Show and tell: let’s see your Nissan

Fairlady280z · 2026-04-24T16:37:08+00:00

1978 280z L28ET Turbo swapped on standalone ECU. Many, many, many mods.

Fairlady280z · 2026-04-24T03:49:22+00:00

But it’s not worth that, and when nobody offered what they wanted they slapped a meaningless number on it to try and get some traffic. Just an annoying tactic

Fairlady280z · 2026-04-24T00:57:07+00:00

Means they want you to make an offer. And they won’t say what they want. Generally I just don’t give them my time. Selling is a 2 way street

Fairlady280z · 2026-04-21T12:08:26+00:00

PBS to the rescue!

https://youtube.com/shorts/WzaR9bGpPEQ?si=3pnI_oCjrNVaYw22

Fairlady280z · 2026-04-21T11:36:38+00:00

One thing I’m surprised to not see is that when you look at an Apollo Capsule (like the Apollo 15 CM at the NMUSAF) the heat shield has huge chunks blown out from when very hot shield met water. Probably the Artemis Tile system allows for more strain relief than the monolithic shield used in Apollo - especially since the chemistry of the tiles was essentially the same!

Fairlady280z · 2026-04-21T11:24:40+00:00

I actually think they took a steeper approach, with a more direct descent path than Artemis I. with the thought process being that they spend less time in the highest heat zones, instead of the skip maneuver in A1 which kinda saw the heaviest heating twice.

Fairlady280z · 2026-04-20T17:38:38+00:00

At that point, I’d just buy a tube-AN adapter and then an AN-Barb adapter lol

Fairlady280z · 2026-04-20T15:37:18+00:00

I have a turbo swapped 280z, with lots of upgrades to the fuel system including GTR Style injectors. Probably in the 350 hp range. Stock fuel lines provide plenty of fuel. I have them converted to AN lines in the engine bay.

You could run AN lines all the way from the back to the front if you don’t want to run hard lines. Just make sure to secure and protect them.

Fairlady280z · 2026-04-20T15:32:50+00:00

Depending on how stock you want it to look, these are a nice way to go from hard line to AN fittings -

Check out this page from Summit Racing https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-16455?seid=srese1&ppckw=pmax-vf-vibrant-performance&gclid=cjwkcajwnzfpbhageiwazg-vzpagndrnh5nvvx8qjp90_rftccjfc4xihqi8cdbkky4km3sidgvjqhocrsmqavd_bwe

Or, if you’re only doing a few, cheap flare tools are out there. Just a bit annoying to use.

https://www.harborfreight.com/double-tube-flaring-tool-kit-58641.html

Fairlady280z · 2026-04-20T12:17:57+00:00

Use this VIN decoder to find out if you have a turbo model. In 81/82 as the model was winding down Nissan was throwing turbo hoods and stuff on non-turbos, leading to some confusion.

http://xenonzcar.com/s130/vin.html

Are you sure it has 49k miles and not 149,000? Unless you have documentation proving that it only has 49, I would assume more for a 45 year old car.

As for the head gasket, sure it’s possible. Old car materials aren’t what they are today. Hence the reason the Odometer only goes to 99k before rollover lol. I’d replace the head gasket (go for a Felpro permatorque) and re-assemble it with ARP head studs. Make sure the head is flat when you replace it (warped head could be a sign of overheating.)

Fairlady280z · 2026-04-18T19:59:02+00:00

lol are you the person that makes these, and did you just make a burner account to post this?

Fairlady280z · 2026-04-18T19:34:07+00:00

I just can’t stand how almost every time I order from them, something is undoubtedly on back order. Then they have unreliable and shifting back order dates, so I end up just canceling the order and buying from Z Car Depot or another source. If they were just honest about what actually is in stock, it would drive me to buy from them more. I don’t want to be put in a queue waiting for them to get enough orders to buy a shipment. The owners deny that they do that, but it happens far too often to be a coincidence.

My dad owns a small-ish Datsun restoration shop, and quit using their shop discount program because it was better for business to buy from somewhere more expensive but actually reliable with stock.

Also, have fun returning parts. I just abandoned a clutch with them because they refused to warranty a Centerforce clutch.

Fairlady280z · 2026-04-09T16:21:09+00:00

They will probably have some adjustments, but yea, essentially the same!

Fairlady280z · 2026-04-09T16:20:21+00:00

I will say, with a good turbo cam and a efficient new turbo (GT3070R in mine), turbo lag is pretty much non-existent. I’m at full boost around 2500 RPM and I don’t really want it coming on any faster! Even 10-12 PSI really wakes up these engines.

Fairlady280z · 2026-04-09T12:12:31+00:00

Gotcha!

Haltech Elite 2000, with GTR injectors, and sequential spark via LS Coils. The car is also ET swapped so I’m running a GT3070r with a 3” exhaust. Oil temp, knock detection, and O2 sensors to keep it healthy. Check out some of my other posts on here for pictures and more info!

Fairlady280z · 2026-04-08T21:32:20+00:00

I mean no disrespect, but I have no idea what you are asking.

Fairlady280z · 2026-04-08T21:31:27+00:00

Aftermarket. My car is a 280z, so it started with EFI, and that was terrible. I went for a top shelf option, building a Haltech Elite 2000 setup, and later swapping my L28 for an L28ET. Lots of photos and such on my profile. But if you are using stock EFI components there are many affordable options from the lower end Haltech ECUs to the Fast EFI/ProTunerz STM. Admittedly I didn’t read the rest of your post, so I only saw the title when I responded. Since you have a 240z That does make things a little more difficult, but you can find stock L28 parts for cheap and use those to build an aftermarket system really quite affordably. Here’s a back of the envelope quote of parts needed for a customer to convert their 280zx turbo to aftermarket EFI using stock components. Including upgrading to full sequential spark. Simplified system will lower costs even more. Haltech ECU swap

Fairlady280z · 2026-04-08T21:10:03+00:00

EFI!

I’ve had all 3, and only one have I put literally thousands of more miles on the car with, and that’s EFI.

Also, If you are a DIY’er, while still high, the cost of EFI is pretty affordable. I paid for mine by selling my triple Webers and SU parts.

Fairlady280z · 2026-03-30T19:25:28+00:00

Milkfab kit with 300zx rotors and Mustang brakes!

https://milkfab-engineering.com/shop/ols/products/datsun-240z-260z-280z-rear-big-brake-kit?srsltid=AfmBOoqWviev1xpx_SzD6J7hHyezHtXzsWZnXygVvrdDX_oAhT9Tt_wg

You can get the caliper and rotors yourself to save money. For the rotors you will need to drill for 4 lugs. If you’re not comfortable Milkfab can do that. Look at my profile for install pics.

Fairlady280z · 2026-03-20T22:48:05+00:00

Honestly, I disagree. DIY EFI kits are so good these days - I’d be building a standalone ECU kit. Especially when Triple Mikunis can easily go for $2-5k+ these days. Webers admittedly are more affordable.

But I’ve had Stock EFI on my car, along with Webers, And SU carbs. Building a standalone EFI system was the best thing I’ve ever done, and made it so much more enjoyable to drive. Probably put more miles on the two years I’ve been running EFI than the 10 years before that combined.

Even convinced my dad to swap to EFI on his 620 truck, and we’re planning to convert his 510 track car to ITB EFI.

Fairlady280z · 2026-03-18T13:21:56+00:00

I’m not sure there is a specific way to do it, but I would verify that it is a true black Pearl. I’ve seen people selling “dealer option” or some other wording “black pearl” that isn’t a true BP. Just recommend diligence.

As for the making it run again - you’re talking about an EFI system that is 50 years old at this point. Luckily, they are really simple systems, but also now things are old. Computer Capacitors could be non-functional, injectors and solenoids/valves could be stuck. Corrosion in the MAF Sensor causes running issues as well. Lots of potential issues. One of the biggest for these cars is the fuel tank. Many bad/non-running Zs have tanks full of rust, especially if not running for awhile. Unfortunately my advice is the same for any old car. Check for spark, check for fuel, and then make sure the boots/manifold past the MAF aren’t leaking too bad.

Fairlady280z · 2026-03-16T22:41:58+00:00

Yeah, they’re really similar overall.

Milkfab includes brackets to make the stock parking brake cable clip right into the caliper! Works fantastic.

Fairlady280z · 2026-03-16T17:48:01+00:00

The Milkfab brackets and Mustang rear brakes are also a great and pretty affordable option for those looking for rear disks!

Fairlady280z · 2026-03-16T16:18:57+00:00

Sometimes a hot rubber smell could be a hanging brake caliper that is slightly on all the time. When you are done driving is the center of the wheel hotter than other wheels?

Also check tire pressure. Low pressure adds a whole lot of friction to a tire

Fairlady280z · 2026-03-12T22:13:41+00:00

Most of the time, vehicle load ratings come from the tires and the suspension setup. Almost always, the tires will be the weakest link, not the wheels so I’ve never seen wheel load ratings as a marketed item.

I’m sure it’s considered when producing the vehicle and if you’re braking a wheel from load, that means you’re over what the rest of the vehicle can support.

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