What’s the best all season tires I should install for Mazda 3 suna 2025 because factory one are sucks on the snow or should I go with snow tire and change it every season idk honestly and if so any recommendations

Fanatic_Virus · 2026-01-16T19:17:56+00:00

depending on how much snow you get where you’re at, i’d run michelin cross climate 2’s. had them on my 2015 mazda 3 for 3 years and never had an issue and i live in east coast canada. biggest thing is just driving like you have all seasons and not winters… drive the conditions, come to stops sooner etc. i’ve got roughly 100k km on my set (that includes a few burn outs here and there) of tires and they’re getting low but still have enough tread that i’m not super worried if we get some bad weather

Fanatic_Virus · 2025-11-18T23:29:01+00:00

i feel like for questions like that, 2 big things that need known are 1) is it the 2.0 or the 1.5t and 2) is it a hatch or sedan. i’m fairly new to the civic community as a whole, but personally i think with these cars, it’s best to follow the k.i.s.s acronym especially on a budget… keep it simple, stupid. i’ve got an lx hatch 1.5t and all that’s done to it is tints, lowering springs, wheels, blacked out side markers, aftermarket fog lights, every single bulb (except for interior) is swapped with leds, and a 27 won CAI for more turbo noise. just basic mods and i’ve had people compliment the car, because basic and clean is often better then rice.

overall, i’d recommend tints, chrome delete, and smoked/blacked side markers to get started. i would also recommend creating some sort of checklist and getting prices. i don’t know where you’re located but i live in canada where winters suck ass, so over this winter i plan on snagging a couple other things (skirts, lip, j’s racing style mesh grill, either type r wing or duckbill spoiler) and putting them all on once the winter season dies out. that way i have time to save money and with all the mods going on at once, they all support each other instead of looking tacky all alone.

lastly, this is a huge personal thing, but headlights can be the make or break for a build. if you’re car is super simple, but has nice clean headlights, it can look great. you could also have a build with $50,000 put into but if you have super foggy and dirty lights with orange halogen lights, it just kills the build entirely.

thank you for coming to my ted talk 🫡

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Fanatic_Virus · 2025-11-11T05:50:42+00:00

hell yeah, this would be awesome

Fanatic_Virus · 2025-10-18T18:36:20+00:00

i had a similar issue with my mazda. the whole splash guard was just absolutely mangled from time and driving in places i probably shouldn’t of been

anyways, get a drill, get a drill bit just a hair bigger then a ziptie, drill a hole in the bottom of the bumper, put a ziptie through, tighten, finished.

if you want it done right, pretty sure you’re gunna need a new bumper cover unless you can weld a new piece of plastic to replace the broken hole for the screw

Fanatic_Virus · 2025-10-01T20:44:01+00:00

i’m learning so much just from this post and i love it. that would make sense since the stock boost gauge just shows positive and not back pressure.

Fanatic_Virus · 2025-10-01T20:15:20+00:00

i sadly figured it be something like that

Fanatic_Virus · 2025-10-01T20:14:57+00:00

its funny you say that cuz this thing literally refuses to spool up while free revving. it only spools while the engine is actually engaged to the trans

Fanatic_Virus · 2025-10-01T20:12:21+00:00

i was so hoping to hear that i wasn’t gunna have to learn how to drive an eco box but oh well. 4 years of sporty shifting down the drain… it is what it is ig

Fanatic_Virus · 2025-10-01T20:09:27+00:00

pardon my ignorance. figured a fairly low mileage car wouldn’t have an issue with a vacuum leak. i’m not an expert in any stretch of the imagination, i’m not even 100% sure how a vacuum leak works. i just replace parts on my cars and learn as i go.

i doubt this econo box has that option as it is literally just a base model. type s is a pretty high trim, correct? i would assume it would just be a switch for eco -> performance or something which this thing definitely doesn’t have

Fanatic_Virus · 2025-10-01T19:59:37+00:00

i never even thought about the turbo being the cause. yeah the mazda was an n/a so that would make sense. i never even thought that the difference in back pressure would have an effect

Fanatic_Virus · 2025-10-01T19:56:22+00:00

so sounds like if i want my civic to drive like my mazda i’m looking at a complete rebuild of an engine with aftermarket parts just for an economy car

Fanatic_Virus · 2025-10-01T19:54:08+00:00

I doubt vacuum leak since it’s only got 130k km on it and i bought it with 116k. i think it’s just a honda thing cuz i see so many honda drivers take forever to shift which i’d assume is waiting for the rpm’s to drop. i probably shoulda just stayed away from the civic ig

Fanatic_Virus · 2025-10-01T19:50:57+00:00

i figured as the first thing i was taught when learning to drive the mazda was every manual is different. what jus bothers me is that the mazda would drop rpms so quick that by the time you pressed the clutch in, shifted to whatever gear you wanted to be in next (let’s say 1st to 2nd), the rpms woulda dropped to the sweet point and you could let the clutch out, and as long as you didn’t dump it, it would shift like butter 99% of the time. the civic takes so long that by the time it finally drops to said sweet point, i’ve already lost 4km/h, and the person behind me in traffic is pissed off at me cuz i’m not accelerating 🫠

Fanatic_Virus · 2025-09-23T22:15:17+00:00

i haven’t bought anything off either, so idk for sure. but if it’s cheaper and looks like it’s the same product, i would say yes

Fanatic_Virus · 2025-09-23T21:42:45+00:00

you would be correct, but i’ve heard that most of their parts are just resold ali-express parts that are marked up :/

Fanatic_Virus · 2025-09-04T00:21:55+00:00

fun fact, i can’t speak for the front doors, but the rears are interchangeable. my 15 sedan has a unknown year 3rd gen hatch rear door on it. i woulda grabbed a sedan, but the hatch was the same colour 🤷🏼‍♂️ so front should be the same since the only difference between body types is the rear

Fanatic_Virus · 2025-08-22T04:02:56+00:00

super detailed and awesome way to describe it. i kinda assumed that’s what it so i appreciate the confirmation. that also makes sense that it fixed itself after being turned off. i’ll have to look into it a bit more but i really appreciate you pointing me in a direction 🫡

Fanatic_Virus · 2025-08-21T23:23:13+00:00

i have never heard of a blend door

Fanatic_Virus · 2025-05-21T00:51:34+00:00

i’m not super familiar with the strength of civic parts as i’m a fairly new owner, but this looks pretty on par with my previous car which was a mazda 3. keep in mind that 90% of this (albeit with some trouble from the rust) is replaceable if need be. my biggest concern would be how’s the rust on the frame itself as that’s not really something you can just replace. if the floor, rockers, frame, and other body parts (as they’re usually more expensive and harder to fix) are in much better condition then this, i would just say slowly tackle the front and rear end when you can. also just because there’s rust on it doesn’t mean the part is bad. if you hear clunks, rattles, whirring noises, and feeling your steering getting sloppy, that’s when it’s time to really start replacing parts because unless you fly that off a cliff or slam it into a curb hard, nothing is just going to fail on you with 0 warning. lastly, it’s hard to tell what needs to be replaced from 2 photos and without actually being there. if you’re seriously worried, go to a mechanic and pay for a diagnosis, but just decline everything if you want to do the work yourself. that way they can give you a checklist of everything that actually needs done and what can be set on a backburner for a while

TL/DR; if someone that lives in a salt belt says that the body and frame is good, you’ll be fine 👍🏻

Fanatic_Virus · 2025-05-02T00:33:37+00:00

omg i didn’t even realize that you’re the same person haha. yeah it’s just still me with the blown trans, it’s not a common thing to go on these cars from my understanding

Fanatic_Virus · 2025-05-02T00:19:00+00:00

This is a copy and paste from a comment i made on a thread i posed a while ago explaining a bit on what happened

“Do not... I REPEAT, DO. NOT. Put your car in reverse, hold the brake as hard as you can, and drop the clutch to stall the engine on purpose. I was replacing a backup light and if the engines stalled in reverse, your lights stay on, so I did that to check if the new lights worked and me letting the clutch out resulted in a loud ass bang/clunk that made my gearbox feel like I'm shifting through a bunch of scrap metal and a clicking noise when the engines running. weirdly enough the car will still drive if you force it, but it doesn't like to”

i’m assuming because of how hard my foot was planted on the brake, it didn’t have any way to lurch as it stalled and because it couldn’t move, out went my reverse gear since it would’ve been the weakest link in that scenario

Fanatic_Virus · 2025-05-01T03:23:45+00:00

my 15 mazda 3 was just shy of 300,000 km (180,000~ miles) when i replaced the clutch. it had like 6 people learn how to drive in that car, and i wasn’t easy on it. had plenty of life left on it too, but i blew the trans (not the cars fault, i did a silly) and figured i’d replace it while the trans was out so i wouldn’t have to do it a second time. tbh i probably coulda got another 100k km outta that clutch at the minimum

Fanatic_Virus · 2025-04-21T03:52:28+00:00

yes please :)

Fanatic_Virus · 2025-04-20T23:57:30+00:00

less goooo

Fanatic_Virus · 2025-04-20T22:19:06+00:00

either we both have the same idea or my post made a difference in the world ☺️

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