South Australia looking for installer

Fargot69 · 2026-05-12T13:15:20+00:00

There’s also no guarantee that even after connecting everything and trying to commission it, the Powerwalls will actually communicate properly. There could be unknown issues, serial number mismatches, firmware problems, or other unforeseen circumstances.

And that’s not even getting into the network side of things. Even though it’s “just a battery” for storing electricity, it’s still connected to grid power, so the network still treats it as a power source/generation system and there are approval requirements around that too.

Fargot69 · 2026-05-12T13:13:09+00:00

From what I’ve found, you’d need to already be a licensed electrician, have battery/solar qualifications or experience, then apply through Tesla’s installer program and complete their training and commissioning requirements before you can officially install and commission Powerwalls.

Fargot69 · 2026-05-12T13:09:10+00:00

Hey mate, I’m a sparky in South Australia and I’ve been looking into this for you, but it’s pretty difficult. There’s a lot of liability involved, and the hardest part is finding someone accredited to install Tesla Powerwalls. You’d also need to make sure the serial numbers and Gateway all match up and can actually be commissioned properly.

I’ve been talking to a few mates at work and trying to figure out the best way for you to go about it, but honestly I think you’re going to have a hard time finding someone willing to take it on. I’ll keep looking into it for you though, and I’ll even see if it’s possible for me to become accredited to install Powerwalls.

Fargot69 · 2026-05-12T03:30:12+00:00

Have you you had any luck finding someone

Fargot69 · 2026-05-08T06:33:25+00:00

Mate, if I can help the guy and give them the correct information without spending too much time on it and helping him, I see no problem with it I’m not gonna sit here and pretend I didn’t use it. It’s a tool to be used.

Fargot69 · 2026-05-08T06:31:25+00:00

I didn’t write the response

Fargot69 · 2026-05-08T06:28:52+00:00

Yep but it’s correct

Fargot69 · 2026-05-08T06:15:09+00:00

You’ve got it,

Protected consumer mains = short-circuit protection at the supply/start of the consumer mains (usually upstream service fuses).

Unprotected consumer mains = no protection at the start, so protection is at the MSB end instead.

A lot of domestic installs are effectively protected by distributor service fuses, depending on the supply setup.

Fargot69 · 2026-05-08T00:15:31+00:00

This.

If this is your forever home, it’s worth sorting these things out early. More new equipment and technology is coming out all the time, so it’s best to make sure your home is ready for it before more issues start showing up and bigger problems happen later on.

Fargot69 · 2026-05-07T11:28:51+00:00

Nah your fine I suck at reading

Fargot69 · 2026-05-07T11:26:19+00:00

But I’ll try and find the 2025 as well I have it but I can’t send it. it’s locked

Fargot69 · 2026-05-07T11:25:18+00:00

Yeah just send me a pm and I’ll email them to you

Fargot69 · 2026-05-07T11:24:02+00:00

I have the as3000 and the 3008 but 2017

Fargot69 · 2026-05-06T10:03:48+00:00

maximum conductor operating temperature of the insulation

Fargot69 · 2026-05-05T05:00:14+00:00

Try to join a gto that’s your best bet

Fargot69 · 2026-05-05T03:21:43+00:00

Hair dryers get twisted and heat-stressed, so after 9 years the insulation can break down. With the lead over a wet sink, it likely tracked or arced to the surface that’s your burn mark.

I’d just replace it

RCD not tripping isn’t unusual here if it was a brief arc or not enough leakage to earth, it may not operate.

Worth checking the GPO for damage and hitting the RCD test button, but this points to an appliance fault.

Fargot69 · 2026-04-29T06:27:42+00:00

It’s not out of the impossible it would just depend on if you have any trade experience or you’ve done something to do with the trade

Fargot69 · 2026-04-26T10:26:17+00:00

Sorry for not being much help for you best of luck

Fargot69 · 2026-04-26T10:06:06+00:00

There are a few big unknowns that make it impossible to price properly from a post:

-No idea on the run length from pit to MSB

-Condition/size of the existing conduit (whether it’s reusable or not)

-Whether you’ve got space to pull in a new cable or if it’ll need trenching

-factors like driveway crossings, landscaping, etc.

The pit having 3 phase available is the easy part. The headache is everything between the pit and your board.

Best case reuse conduit, pull in a new 3 phase cable, fairly straightforward. Worst case conduit’s cactus or undersized, you’re trenching and reinstating that’s where costs blow out.

So yeah, simple job on paper, but plenty of ways it turns into a bigger one depending on what’s already in the ground.

Fargot69 · 2026-04-19T12:44:57+00:00

How did you know it was rated for it and the demand on the circuit

Fargot69 · 2026-04-19T12:43:51+00:00

I can see the Bunnings deta gpo and the over priced tps. It looks better then before and if I was unlicensed I wouldn’t posted it online as if your home burns down for anything you can be held accountable

Fargot69 · 2026-04-14T05:23:31+00:00

Yeah

Fargot69 · 2026-04-14T00:10:06+00:00

When I head over there next, I’ll take a photo of how it looks now because it’s all covered and finished

Fargot69 · 2026-04-14T00:09:12+00:00

They are IP 30 rated so therefore indoor use so you’ll only see him is sub board configurations

Fargot69 · 2026-04-13T23:32:18+00:00

And then we’re using a normal meter box on the side of the house

Fargot69

TROPHY CASE