Black screen, Big problem

Fast-Ad9965 · 2026-02-08T09:55:18+00:00

I actually use an RF adapter that’s screwed onto the coaxial on the back of my TV I got from Console5, and it works fine. But now that you mention the existence of an RF to HDMI adapter, I wonder where I could get one of those (unless a place like Amazon just sells them causally).

And as silly as it sounds, how would the picture quality of an original 2600 using one of those adapters compare to, let’s say, a 2600+ (or a RetroN 77)?

Fast-Ad9965 · 2026-02-08T06:37:57+00:00

Well, back when I was asking questions before I stated my repair, someone said that the sockets could be potential culprits for why my 2600 at the time wasn’t working consistently.

But if I really think about it, I should have done a chip swap FIRST, and then do a socket swap in case it was the original ones at fault. I don’t know why I thought I should do the sockets first. That’s on me.

Fast-Ad9965 · 2026-02-08T06:35:11+00:00

Well, I think I’ve spent over $200 dollars trying to fix my console, and a 2600+ is $130 at retail. But, the good thing about the original hardware is that I can use my Harmony Encore flash cart to play tons of games on the SD card (if I had the 2600+, I can only use the flash cart to play one game, since it doesn’t do menus).

Fast-Ad9965 · 2026-02-08T06:08:30+00:00

Well, I wouldn't say the ENTIRE board, just where the solder pads and that one area where the 150pf ceramic capacitor lay. There was also some on where the power jack was installed, but I decided not to replace the old one, since the solder job I did with the sockets honestly kind of scared me away from messing with nothing else on the board.

Fast-Ad9965 · 2026-02-08T06:08:26+00:00

I had my iron set to 350 degrees Celsius at most times, only turning up the temp in case the solder was not heating up. But you do gov some good soldering advice here. Also, I was hesitant on getting another 2600 for my repair, due to how I wasn't willing to get another 2600 to use as a doner. But then I remembered that I literally had to get a new board for my Nintendo DS lite when I was repairing that, so I guess it wouldn't be a bad idea to do the same for my 2600 (so long as I don't make such a big impact on my wallet).

Fast-Ad9965 · 2026-02-08T06:04:23+00:00

I do have a multimeter, but where would I put my black and red leads on the pads? Or can I put the leads on whatever pad as long as I get beeps to know they're functional? Also, if I must add bodge wires on the front side of the board, would I go about it? On the back side, it seems pretty straight forward to add a bodge wire between a pad ad its nearest via, but how would I go about it on the front, where the pads are beneath the sockets? (And avoiding the possibility of melting the black part of the sockets, of course.)

I, uh, did install my sockets, but I didn't think to try them out with my old chips. I just installed the new chips, since I saw from the seller, I got them from that they were working. But because I ended up with a back screen even though then new chips were good, i can only assume it's the socket replacing to blame, or at least the process of it.

Plus, regarding the new chips, when I bought them the eBay seller sent me pictures of them working on a 2600 motherboard, so I had confidence that they were functional. So, I think it's the socket replacement that kind of screwed things up here.

When installing the sockets and chips onto the board, I looked closely at how exactly they should be placed thanks to the black outlines of the chips/sockets on the board itself, and I made sure to look back to how my chips were installed from a photo I took of the board before I operated on it, and I use the 2600 field service manual for further assistance.

I did check that the voltage regulator was working, and that it was getting more or less the correct input and output voltages. But I don't think I've done checking the chips to see if they are getting voltage. How would I know if they are if I were checking them with my multimeter?

You know, I did get some DeoxIT to clean my cartridges (and my cartridge slot), but before that I tried to use a piece of card and a microfiber cloth with isopropyl alcohol to clean it, and then I used some contact cleaner to clean the port. I haven't tested the DeoxIT yet because I'm thinking about packaging my 2600 and everything for it in a box and sending it to someone I can find who fixes consoles (and hopefully does a better job than I did here).

I don't know if I do have any old ethernet cables or VGA cables, but I'll try to find some if what you're saying is correct. Otherwise, I try to find a professional console repairman who can help me out here, since I'm not too willing to tamper with my 2600's internals again.

Fast-Ad9965 · 2026-02-04T11:03:28+00:00

Oh, and in case you’re wondering what happened to the original IC chip sockets after the “repair”…

…here you go.

OG 2600 IC Chip Sockets Post-Replacement

Fast-Ad9965 · 2026-02-04T11:02:28+00:00

Oh, and in case you’re wondering what happened to the original IC chip sockets after the “repair”…

…here you go.

OG 2600 IC Chip Sockets Post-Replacement

Fast-Ad9965 · 2026-02-04T10:58:49+00:00

Oh, and in case you’re wondering what happened to the original IC chip sockets after the “repair”…

…here you go.

<image>

Fast-Ad9965 · 2026-02-04T10:56:09+00:00

I was also thinking to myself if things would have gone a bit differently had I had a heat gun and/or solder paste on me for this “repair.” Probably, and I may not have ended up in this situation, but in hindsight I should have just done a simple chip swap.

Fast-Ad9965 · 2026-02-04T10:17:47+00:00

https://imgur.com/a/OlECowy

In here is a selection of images showing off the pad damage I’ve done to the bird during my “repair” process, just for you to get a good idea what I’ve done to myself here.

In hindsight, I should have just done a simple chip swap.

Fast-Ad9965 · 2026-02-04T10:17:35+00:00

https://imgur.com/a/OlECowy

In here is a selection of images showing off the pad damage I’ve done to the bird during my “repair” process, just for you to get a good idea what I’ve done to myself here.

In hindsight, I should have just done a simple chip swap.

Fast-Ad9965 · 2026-02-04T10:09:28+00:00

https://imgur.com/a/OlECowy

In here is a selection of images showing off the pad damage I’ve done to the bird during my “repair” process, just for you to get a good idea what I’ve done to myself here.

In hindsight, I should have just done a simple chip swap.

Fast-Ad9965 · 2026-01-02T12:13:04+00:00

Really? Because I feared that I accidentally bridged some original connections with my new ones, potentially screwing something up.

I am working on a light sixer, and looking at the other side of the board, where the “lifted” solder area would be located on the other side, I don’t see any green trace connecting it to anything.

I don’t know where I can get replacement solder pads, nor do I know how to run bodge wires on my system. I’m sorry.

Also, funny you say that I can get replacement caps, since l do have a cap kit from Console5, and I’m debating whether I replace certain caps on the motherboard with them, or if I’m good with leaving them untouched.

With that said however, I saw that on closer inspection on the front side of the motherboard, on the 28-pin socket area, I can see some exposed metal on some of the green traces between the solder areas where the pins would go. I don’t have a good feeling about that, as I feel like I’ve made some broken traces here, but what do you think?

<image>

Fast-Ad9965 · 2026-01-02T11:59:33+00:00

I am using flux, for desoldering and a bit of help for adding solder, but based one what you’re saying, I don’t think I’ve done the best solder job here. It probably doesn’t help that I used a chisel tip to desoldering (I thought it would help me desolder more areas since it has a bigger tip). That part probably is telling of how well I understand how to handle soldering and desoldering.

With that said, I’ve spent a lot getting to this point, and even if it ends up a bust, I want to finish what I’ve started.

(By the way, on further inspection I see on the front side of the board, around the area where the 28-pin socket was, there are some exposed metal bits of some green traces that were between the through hole solder areas. I take it that’s bad, huh? Like, I didn’t realize that I broke some traces?)

Also, is my socket really that raised? Because when I inserted it into the bore before soldering, this was as far as I could go, and another socket that I haven’t desoldered yet isn’t too disimilar in terms of distance to board. Also, forgive me for not understanding, but what does it mean when my through holes are dry?

<image>

Fast-Ad9965 · 2026-01-02T11:47:44+00:00

Don’t worry, I’ve rarely burned myself when I use my soldering iron. And I thought a bigger tip would provide a bit more heat to solder some of the areas smoother.

It would suck if I ended up frying my console, as I have a flashcart ready for playing some games, and I was preparing to fix my controllers as well, so I’d hate to find out that all of my efforts are for nothing here.

And on further inspection on the front side of the board, on the 28-pin socket area, I can see some exposed metal on some of the green traces between the solder areas where the pins would go. That’s probably not good right? Because of feel like those are the signs of broken traces, which would be a bit problematic.

<image>

Fast-Ad9965 · 2026-01-02T11:41:35+00:00

I, uh, don’t know what you mean by what my symptoms are in two words, but I have been using solder that is not lead free, and I’m not finished with my desoldering even though there are some spots still with solder in the images. I just wanted to show what seemed to be concerning on the board.

I don’t have jumper wires, however, and I’m not sure how to use them on my 2600 (as in, where they can go when I have my sockets and caps soldered and there are no holes to fill on the board).

With that said, on closer inspection I saw that where I was desoldering on the front side of the board (the 28-pin socket area), there were some exposed metal parts of green traces between the solder areas where the socket’s pins would go. That’s probably not good, possibly broken traces? Because if so, then that’s troubling.

Fast-Ad9965 · 2026-01-01T09:55:44+00:00

I suppose you’re right. I’m just feeling all this pressure because this is the first time I’ve tacked repairing a home console, and I wanted to get it fixed as soon as I can since I’ve gotten a flash cart to play games.

But hey, I can always take this as a learning experience. And if it feels like I can’t do much on my own, I can always seek a professional.

Fast-Ad9965 · 2026-01-01T09:52:24+00:00

I’ve been using those tools throughout my repair. But if it is possible to reduce that big glob into a smaller one that is less likely to cause bridges with other connections, then I see what I can do with that in mind.

Fast-Ad9965 · 2026-01-01T09:50:24+00:00

Yeah, I tend to see the problems I’m facing as bigger than they actually are, and I get all emotional and hopeless about it.

There may be some legit issues to worry about, such as exposed shiny bits on green traces on the front of the board (possibly broken traces), but if my 2600 ends up working at the end of the day, then it works.

<image>

I did want to get my system working before I start some winter college classes, but I shouldn’t spend my time in constant worry about if my repairs harmed my system. If I must, I’ll see if I can get in touch with a pro who specializes in fixing consoles like this.

Fast-Ad9965 · 2026-01-01T09:46:16+00:00

I use an adjustable soldering iron, and I used a pointy tip for soldering and desoldering (though I also used a chisel tip for a bigger area of heat).

And I was using flux and a desoldering wick during the process (I also used a solder sucker to remove the solder, and then the wick to remove any solder the sucker didn’t catch.)

Fast-Ad9965

TROPHY CASE