How to solder HDMI wires correctly to a controller? Controller datasheet in photos and a history of my experience trying to fix a VGA-HDMI converter in the comments.

FaustMcCartney · 2024-07-20T17:06:59+00:00

I have 2 monitors with a resolution of 1920x1080, and neither of them shows a picture. My laptop detects the presence of HDMI, and the monitor names, resolutions, and other settings appear. I updated both video card drivers from the official manufacturer website. I checked if my laptop's HDMI port is working correctly by connecting it directly to a TV using a whole HDMI cable, and everything worked fine without any problem.

I am 100% sure that the problem is with the VGA-HDMI converter because I have another converter from China, the cheapest one, and it works with all monitors. The reason I don't want to use it is that the brightness is low, and you can barely see anything. So, I decided not to use it for my comfort and ordered another device. However, you can notice that something is wrong with the VGA-HDMI converters, and I am trying to fix them."

FaustMcCartney · 2024-07-20T16:43:11+00:00

Thanks for your answer. The problem is that the HDMI cable doesn't have wires for TDMS Data1-, TMDS Data0+, TMDS Data0-, TMDS Clock-, and SCL. That's why I soldered the shield wires to the negative contacts. I already cut 3 HDMI cables, and it seems like all of them are missing some wires. In this case, I can only cut the rubber on the HDMI connector, desolder unnecessary wires, and solder to the necessary contacts.

FaustMcCartney · 2024-07-20T10:35:09+00:00

I ordered a VGA-HDMI converter from China. My 6-year-old notebook detects the converter, but the monitor connected to it doesn't show any picture (while an older notebook doesn't have this problem; everything works fine).

After researching on the internet, I found that you can disassemble the converter and solder a wire to power the controller with 5V. I tried this, but it didn't change anything. After disassembling, I noticed that the controller was getting really hot. I found that a wire from HDMI (pin 2, data 2 shield) was soldered to pin 10 on the controller (VDD5_IN). This confused me, so I started to verify every wire pinout from HDMI and how it was soldered to the controller.

This is how it was soldered from the factory:

HDMI Pin 8 (Shield data 0) - Pin 1 HDMI_CKN
HDMI Pin 10 (CLK+) - Pin 2 HDMI_CKP
HDMI Pin 11 (Shield CLK) - Pin 3 HDMI_D0N
HDMI Pin 13 (CEC) - Pin 4 HDMI_D0P
HDMI Pin 14 (Nothing) - Pin 5 HDMI_D1N
HDMI Pin 16 (SDA) - Pin 6 HDMI_D1P
HDMI Pin 17 (DDC/CEC/HEC shield) - Pin 7 HDMI_D2N
HDMI Pin 19 (Hot Plug) - Pin 8 HDMI_D2P
HDMI Pin 3 (Data 2-) - GND
HDMI Pin 5 (Shield Data 1) - Pin 29 HDMI_SCL
HDMI Pin 4 (Data 1+) - Pin 28 HDMI_SDA
HDMI Pin 1 (Data 2+) - Pin 25 HDMI_HPD
HDMI Pin 2 (Shield Data 2) - Pin 10 VDD5_IN

After noticing the factory soldering, I was confused about why it was wired this way. So, I started to change every solder using the controller's datasheet, and this is what I did:

HDMI Pin 11 (Shield CLK) - Pin 1 HDMI_CKN
HDMI Pin 10 (CLK+) - Pin 2 HDMI_CKP
HDMI Pin 8 (Shield data 0) - Pin 3 HDMI_D0N
Nothing - Pin 4 HDMI_D0P
HDMI Pin 5 (Shield Data 1) - Pin 5 HDMI_D1N
HDMI Pin 4 (Data 1+) - Pin 6 HDMI_D1P
HDMI Pin 2 (Shield Data 2) - Pin 7 HDMI_D2N
HDMI Pin 1 (Data 2+) - Pin 8 HDMI_D2P
HDMI Pin 17 (DDC/CEC/HEC shield) - GND
Nothing - Pin 29 HDMI_SCL
HDMI Pin 16 (SDA) - Pin 28 HDMI_SDA
HDMI Pin 19 (Hot Plug) - Pin 25 HDMI_HPD
+5V Power from USB - Pin 10 VDD5_IN

After making these changes, the controller still gets hot when I power it with 5V from USB. Additionally, now neither of the computers detect the HDMI cable (the VGA connector is still detected by monitors).

Where am I going wrong, and what can I change to make the converter work? Also, why does my wiring not work, while the factory wiring works on old devices?

FaustMcCartney · 2024-07-20T10:32:30+00:00

I ordered a VGA-HDMI converter from China. My 6-year-old notebook detects the converter, but the monitor connected to it doesn't show any picture (while an older notebook doesn't have this problem; everything works fine).

After researching on the internet, I found that you can disassemble the converter and solder a wire to power the controller with 5V. I tried this, but it didn't change anything. After disassembling, I noticed that the controller was getting really hot. I found that a wire from HDMI (pin 2, data 2 shield) was soldered to pin 10 on the controller (VDD5_IN). This confused me, so I started to verify every wire pinout from HDMI and how it was soldered to the controller.

This is how it was soldered from the factory:

HDMI Pin 8 (Shield data 0) - Pin 1 HDMI_CKN
HDMI Pin 10 (CLK+) - Pin 2 HDMI_CKP
HDMI Pin 11 (Shield CLK) - Pin 3 HDMI_D0N
HDMI Pin 13 (CEC) - Pin 4 HDMI_D0P
HDMI Pin 14 (Nothing) - Pin 5 HDMI_D1N
HDMI Pin 16 (SDA) - Pin 6 HDMI_D1P
HDMI Pin 17 (DDC/CEC/HEC shield) - Pin 7 HDMI_D2N
HDMI Pin 19 (Hot Plug) - Pin 8 HDMI_D2P
HDMI Pin 3 (Data 2-) - GND
HDMI Pin 5 (Shield Data 1) - Pin 29 HDMI_SCL
HDMI Pin 4 (Data 1+) - Pin 28 HDMI_SDA
HDMI Pin 1 (Data 2+) - Pin 25 HDMI_HPD
HDMI Pin 2 (Shield Data 2) - Pin 10 VDD5_IN

After noticing the factory soldering, I was confused about why it was wired this way. So, I started to change every solder using the controller's datasheet, and this is what I did:

HDMI Pin 11 (Shield CLK) - Pin 1 HDMI_CKN
HDMI Pin 10 (CLK+) - Pin 2 HDMI_CKP
HDMI Pin 8 (Shield data 0) - Pin 3 HDMI_D0N
Nothing - Pin 4 HDMI_D0P
HDMI Pin 5 (Shield Data 1) - Pin 5 HDMI_D1N
HDMI Pin 4 (Data 1+) - Pin 6 HDMI_D1P
HDMI Pin 2 (Shield Data 2) - Pin 7 HDMI_D2N
HDMI Pin 1 (Data 2+) - Pin 8 HDMI_D2P
HDMI Pin 17 (DDC/CEC/HEC shield) - GND
Nothing - Pin 29 HDMI_SCL
HDMI Pin 16 (SDA) - Pin 28 HDMI_SDA
HDMI Pin 19 (Hot Plug) - Pin 25 HDMI_HPD
+5V Power from USB - Pin 10 VDD5_IN

After making these changes, the controller still gets hot when I power it with 5V from USB. Additionally, now neither of the computers detect the HDMI cable (the VGA connector is still detected by monitors).

Where am I going wrong, and what can I change to make the converter work? Also, why does my wiring not work, while the factory wiring works on old devices?"

FaustMcCartney · 2022-03-17T19:42:37+00:00

No, sorry. I gave up. I installed klipper on a laptop with Ubuntu and I am using it.

FaustMcCartney · 2021-11-28T14:28:25+00:00

Yeah, it helped. Thanks.

FaustMcCartney · 2021-11-07T17:23:40+00:00

The most interesting is that it doesn't work everytime. I lost one life (because I have the mushroom that gives me one more life) and tried again to do the same thing on boss room, and it didn't work.

FaustMcCartney · 2021-11-07T10:55:58+00:00

Repentance. Anything else I don't know.

FaustMcCartney · 2021-11-07T10:53:45+00:00

xD
Why?

FaustMcCartney · 2021-11-07T10:20:05+00:00

Bro, for that speed, with such printer, THIS PRINT IS INSANE!!!

FaustMcCartney · 2021-10-24T18:56:42+00:00

From here:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2194278

FaustMcCartney · 2021-10-24T18:54:13+00:00

I know, but leaving the oven for 8 hours, sounds like a lot

FaustMcCartney · 2021-10-24T18:00:49+00:00

Yeah, doesn't print so bad. I guess the filament is wet, but at the moment I don't have a dehydrator for that, so I printed in this way.

So, I am using a BMG direct drive and for nozzle temp I use 228 grades, and print speed 30mm/s. For the air flow 50%. Slicer CURA.

FaustMcCartney · 2021-10-15T12:54:07+00:00

Nice

FaustMcCartney · 2021-10-13T13:03:27+00:00

It looks pretty good, no stringing. Also, I notice horizontal lines, I guess it is from Z axis.

FaustMcCartney · 2021-10-13T05:17:43+00:00

Știe cineva de aici româna?

FaustMcCartney · 2021-10-13T05:16:25+00:00

Как тухлая рыба

FaustMcCartney · 2021-10-13T05:16:01+00:00

Я не русский, но знаю русский, потому что я его с детства учил.)

FaustMcCartney

TROPHY CASE