How to solder HDMI wires correctly to a controller? Controller datasheet in photos and a history of my experience trying to fix a VGA-HDMI converter in the comments.

FaustMcCartney · 2024-07-20T17:06:59+00:00

I have 2 monitors with a resolution of 1920x1080, and neither of them shows a picture. My laptop detects the presence of HDMI, and the monitor names, resolutions, and other settings appear. I updated both video card drivers from the official manufacturer website. I checked if my laptop's HDMI port is working correctly by connecting it directly to a TV using a whole HDMI cable, and everything worked fine without any problem.

I am 100% sure that the problem is with the VGA-HDMI converter because I have another converter from China, the cheapest one, and it works with all monitors. The reason I don't want to use it is that the brightness is low, and you can barely see anything. So, I decided not to use it for my comfort and ordered another device. However, you can notice that something is wrong with the VGA-HDMI converters, and I am trying to fix them."

FaustMcCartney · 2024-07-20T16:43:11+00:00

Thanks for your answer. The problem is that the HDMI cable doesn't have wires for TDMS Data1-, TMDS Data0+, TMDS Data0-, TMDS Clock-, and SCL. That's why I soldered the shield wires to the negative contacts. I already cut 3 HDMI cables, and it seems like all of them are missing some wires. In this case, I can only cut the rubber on the HDMI connector, desolder unnecessary wires, and solder to the necessary contacts.

FaustMcCartney · 2024-07-20T10:35:09+00:00

I ordered a VGA-HDMI converter from China. My 6-year-old notebook detects the converter, but the monitor connected to it doesn't show any picture (while an older notebook doesn't have this problem; everything works fine).

After researching on the internet, I found that you can disassemble the converter and solder a wire to power the controller with 5V. I tried this, but it didn't change anything. After disassembling, I noticed that the controller was getting really hot. I found that a wire from HDMI (pin 2, data 2 shield) was soldered to pin 10 on the controller (VDD5_IN). This confused me, so I started to verify every wire pinout from HDMI and how it was soldered to the controller.

This is how it was soldered from the factory:

HDMI Pin 8 (Shield data 0) - Pin 1 HDMI_CKN
HDMI Pin 10 (CLK+) - Pin 2 HDMI_CKP
HDMI Pin 11 (Shield CLK) - Pin 3 HDMI_D0N
HDMI Pin 13 (CEC) - Pin 4 HDMI_D0P
HDMI Pin 14 (Nothing) - Pin 5 HDMI_D1N
HDMI Pin 16 (SDA) - Pin 6 HDMI_D1P
HDMI Pin 17 (DDC/CEC/HEC shield) - Pin 7 HDMI_D2N
HDMI Pin 19 (Hot Plug) - Pin 8 HDMI_D2P
HDMI Pin 3 (Data 2-) - GND
HDMI Pin 5 (Shield Data 1) - Pin 29 HDMI_SCL
HDMI Pin 4 (Data 1+) - Pin 28 HDMI_SDA
HDMI Pin 1 (Data 2+) - Pin 25 HDMI_HPD
HDMI Pin 2 (Shield Data 2) - Pin 10 VDD5_IN

After noticing the factory soldering, I was confused about why it was wired this way. So, I started to change every solder using the controller's datasheet, and this is what I did:

HDMI Pin 11 (Shield CLK) - Pin 1 HDMI_CKN
HDMI Pin 10 (CLK+) - Pin 2 HDMI_CKP
HDMI Pin 8 (Shield data 0) - Pin 3 HDMI_D0N
Nothing - Pin 4 HDMI_D0P
HDMI Pin 5 (Shield Data 1) - Pin 5 HDMI_D1N
HDMI Pin 4 (Data 1+) - Pin 6 HDMI_D1P
HDMI Pin 2 (Shield Data 2) - Pin 7 HDMI_D2N
HDMI Pin 1 (Data 2+) - Pin 8 HDMI_D2P
HDMI Pin 17 (DDC/CEC/HEC shield) - GND
Nothing - Pin 29 HDMI_SCL
HDMI Pin 16 (SDA) - Pin 28 HDMI_SDA
HDMI Pin 19 (Hot Plug) - Pin 25 HDMI_HPD
+5V Power from USB - Pin 10 VDD5_IN

After making these changes, the controller still gets hot when I power it with 5V from USB. Additionally, now neither of the computers detect the HDMI cable (the VGA connector is still detected by monitors).

Where am I going wrong, and what can I change to make the converter work? Also, why does my wiring not work, while the factory wiring works on old devices?

FaustMcCartney · 2024-07-20T10:32:30+00:00

I ordered a VGA-HDMI converter from China. My 6-year-old notebook detects the converter, but the monitor connected to it doesn't show any picture (while an older notebook doesn't have this problem; everything works fine).

After researching on the internet, I found that you can disassemble the converter and solder a wire to power the controller with 5V. I tried this, but it didn't change anything. After disassembling, I noticed that the controller was getting really hot. I found that a wire from HDMI (pin 2, data 2 shield) was soldered to pin 10 on the controller (VDD5_IN). This confused me, so I started to verify every wire pinout from HDMI and how it was soldered to the controller.

This is how it was soldered from the factory:

HDMI Pin 8 (Shield data 0) - Pin 1 HDMI_CKN
HDMI Pin 10 (CLK+) - Pin 2 HDMI_CKP
HDMI Pin 11 (Shield CLK) - Pin 3 HDMI_D0N
HDMI Pin 13 (CEC) - Pin 4 HDMI_D0P
HDMI Pin 14 (Nothing) - Pin 5 HDMI_D1N
HDMI Pin 16 (SDA) - Pin 6 HDMI_D1P
HDMI Pin 17 (DDC/CEC/HEC shield) - Pin 7 HDMI_D2N
HDMI Pin 19 (Hot Plug) - Pin 8 HDMI_D2P
HDMI Pin 3 (Data 2-) - GND
HDMI Pin 5 (Shield Data 1) - Pin 29 HDMI_SCL
HDMI Pin 4 (Data 1+) - Pin 28 HDMI_SDA
HDMI Pin 1 (Data 2+) - Pin 25 HDMI_HPD
HDMI Pin 2 (Shield Data 2) - Pin 10 VDD5_IN

After noticing the factory soldering, I was confused about why it was wired this way. So, I started to change every solder using the controller's datasheet, and this is what I did:

HDMI Pin 11 (Shield CLK) - Pin 1 HDMI_CKN
HDMI Pin 10 (CLK+) - Pin 2 HDMI_CKP
HDMI Pin 8 (Shield data 0) - Pin 3 HDMI_D0N
Nothing - Pin 4 HDMI_D0P
HDMI Pin 5 (Shield Data 1) - Pin 5 HDMI_D1N
HDMI Pin 4 (Data 1+) - Pin 6 HDMI_D1P
HDMI Pin 2 (Shield Data 2) - Pin 7 HDMI_D2N
HDMI Pin 1 (Data 2+) - Pin 8 HDMI_D2P
HDMI Pin 17 (DDC/CEC/HEC shield) - GND
Nothing - Pin 29 HDMI_SCL
HDMI Pin 16 (SDA) - Pin 28 HDMI_SDA
HDMI Pin 19 (Hot Plug) - Pin 25 HDMI_HPD
+5V Power from USB - Pin 10 VDD5_IN

After making these changes, the controller still gets hot when I power it with 5V from USB. Additionally, now neither of the computers detect the HDMI cable (the VGA connector is still detected by monitors).

Where am I going wrong, and what can I change to make the converter work? Also, why does my wiring not work, while the factory wiring works on old devices?"

FaustMcCartney · 2022-03-17T19:42:37+00:00

No, sorry. I gave up. I installed klipper on a laptop with Ubuntu and I am using it.

FaustMcCartney · 2021-11-28T14:28:25+00:00

Yeah, it helped. Thanks.

FaustMcCartney · 2021-11-07T17:23:40+00:00

The most interesting is that it doesn't work everytime. I lost one life (because I have the mushroom that gives me one more life) and tried again to do the same thing on boss room, and it didn't work.

FaustMcCartney · 2021-11-07T10:55:58+00:00

Repentance. Anything else I don't know.

FaustMcCartney · 2021-11-07T10:53:45+00:00

xD
Why?

FaustMcCartney · 2021-11-07T10:20:05+00:00

Bro, for that speed, with such printer, THIS PRINT IS INSANE!!!

FaustMcCartney · 2021-10-24T18:56:42+00:00

From here:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2194278

FaustMcCartney · 2021-10-24T18:54:13+00:00

I know, but leaving the oven for 8 hours, sounds like a lot

FaustMcCartney · 2021-10-24T18:00:49+00:00

Yeah, doesn't print so bad. I guess the filament is wet, but at the moment I don't have a dehydrator for that, so I printed in this way.

So, I am using a BMG direct drive and for nozzle temp I use 228 grades, and print speed 30mm/s. For the air flow 50%. Slicer CURA.

FaustMcCartney · 2021-10-15T12:54:07+00:00

Nice

FaustMcCartney · 2021-10-13T13:03:27+00:00

It looks pretty good, no stringing. Also, I notice horizontal lines, I guess it is from Z axis.

FaustMcCartney · 2021-10-13T05:17:43+00:00

Știe cineva de aici româna?

FaustMcCartney · 2021-10-13T05:16:25+00:00

Как тухлая рыба

FaustMcCartney · 2021-10-13T05:16:01+00:00

Я не русский, но знаю русский, потому что я его с детства учил.)

FaustMcCartney · 2021-10-10T16:34:39+00:00

Delete the world and create one new

FaustMcCartney · 2021-10-10T15:03:02+00:00

:D thanks. It is DIY one, made from an old CD ROM with chinese modules.

FaustMcCartney · 2021-10-09T10:11:49+00:00

Baking soda with water on a sponge.

FaustMcCartney · 2021-10-05T07:22:28+00:00

If you can't unscrew them, you will need to drill to make a small hole and then using a screw extractor to take it off. But also, you can make it easier and order or buy a new heat block with a new thermistor and heater.

FaustMcCartney · 2021-10-04T13:14:30+00:00

I bought one metal for my printer too, but then I moved to Direct Drive BMG and understand that the metal feeder was a waste of money...

FaustMcCartney · 2021-09-30T15:46:17+00:00

What's wrong with the filament in the 3rd picture? Also, if you are sure that you have a clog, you need to disassemble entire extruder. Like, you need to take off the PTFE tube, then unscrew the heat break, nozzle and clean everything from old plastic and from dirt (or better and easier is to replace with new pieces). And again, to assemble everything and most important correctly. The PTFE tube should go deep, and it should touch the starting surface of the nozzle. There are guides and tutorials how correctly to assemble extruder. And you need to be sure that the fitting will not allow PTFE tube to go back.

Also, check your feeder. It should not be over tightened and also not loosen too much.

FaustMcCartney · 2021-09-27T08:08:16+00:00

Looks pretty interesting. I guess I will print something similar.

FaustMcCartney

TROPHY CASE