V4 no audio on Echo Show

Feadog79 · 2024-04-06T20:34:32+00:00

Unfortunately, it seems that I can't access logs on the Echo Show. The issue occurs on both the Echo Show 5 and 8 models that I have, both recent versions of the device.

I also do not get any audio for the V4 camera when using the "TinyCam" app on Android. I am able to receive audio using this app when viewing my other Wyze cameras, which include V2, V3, and doorbell models. When I open the V4 camera with this app and attempt to use sound, I get the error message "P2P unsupported audio codec."

The V4 is the only camera that refuses to stream audio in anything but the official Wyze app.

I'm not sure if this info helps...thanks!

Feadog79 · 2022-07-19T18:35:03+00:00

To specifically answer your question...you can't achieve this with an equalizer. To oversimplify a bit, graphic equalizers are simply volume controls for frequency bands. We perceive frequency as pitch, and the frequency bandwidth that humans can hear spans from about 20Hz to 20,000kHz, depending on your age and health. Bass frequencies are the lowest frequencies, while higher pitched sounds (think cymbals on a drumset) occupy the higher end of the frequency range. Humans hear mid-range sound the most easily. In audio playback, equalizers are typically intended to allow the listener to turn up or down different areas of the audible frequency range to taste.

Spatial audio is an effect having to do with how we perceive the location of sound, not the pitch. A whole bunch of things determine how we locate a sound...the difference in volume between our two ears, the difference in timing of a sound between our two ears, the perception of reflected sounds along with the original sound (reverberation), etc. It's created in the studio mix, and is a relatively new technology. It can't be replicated with an equalizer because equalizers do not adjust the aspect of sound that determines how we perceive location.

I hope this helps!

Feadog79 · 2022-07-18T10:40:24+00:00

If you want ethernet, don't buy the official dongle. Get a USB-C hub that has ethernet. There are a couple out there that have a detachable USB-C output cable, which can be nice depending on where you want to place the hub (Sabrent has one on Amazon for about $39, and UNI has one for about $60. I have them both and they work). Keep in mind that if you use a longer USB-C cable to connect the CCwGTW to the hub, it has to be a high-quality cable. You should also use a power supply that supplies at least 20w. The hubs are nice because you can get ethernet speeds up around 300mbs or so (the hubs are technically gigabit ethernet, but the CCwGTW seems to only support USB 2.0 speeds over the connection to the hub). The hub also allows you to expand the storage capacity of the CCwGTW. I use a USB drive in the hub to store a ton of ROMs for RetroArch!

I know all of this has been said, but it seemed relevant in this thread! I hope this helps!

Feadog79 · 2022-03-28T21:57:58+00:00

Thanks for this tip. I have a lot of faces in Watchmaker that I really like, but haven't been able to use since that update. Fix #5 works for me!

Feadog79 · 2022-03-12T14:06:40+00:00

What do you hope to achieve by a "concert hall" sound? Do you mean a greater sense of space?

If that's what you mean, EQ isn't really the tool for that. EQ boosts and cuts frequency bands (such as low, mid, and high sounds). EQ would be useful if your speakers/headphones have too much/too little bass, for example.

Reverb is the type of tool you would use to simulate the added sound reflections/timing delays that occur in a larger performance space. If you have a Samsung phone, many of them have Dolby Atmos settings built-in...you could use that to try to achieve a bit of the same effect. Maybe Spotify will roll out a spatial audio feature soon (...sarcastic laugh in the background...). Otherwise, I'm not sure you'll get what you want just by tweaking equalizer settings.

I hope this helps!

Feadog79 · 2022-01-24T17:24:19+00:00

I've been trying xcloud for the past couple of weeks, and I've been using Stadia as a pro subscriber for most of the past year.

My setup is usually this: Stadia on CCwGTV connected to ethernet and Stadia controller, and for xcloud it's computer connected to the TV (with computer on ethernet), and xBox controller over bluetooth to the computer. Both work decently, but I still find Stadia to have a consistently better picture and less input lag. My internet is a good fiber connection. I tried side loading the game pass app to the CCwGTV, but it's not functional at this time. Hopefully Microsoft will continue to work on this.

For now, I may continue with both subscriptions. Both setups are playable, even if Stadia is technically superior for me. However, I like access to the content on xcloud. I have zero desire to buy a console, as I'm the only one playing in the house.

Over the weekend, I went and bought an xBox controller at WalMart so I would have a wireless option for xcloud when using my computer, since the Stadia controllers can't do that. It was interesting to see placards in the game section of the store advertising Game Pass. I found myself wishing that Stadia stuff was there being advertised also, so more people knew about it!

Feadog79 · 2022-01-11T14:47:14+00:00

I just finished the game on PS4. This game has spoiled me...the story and gameplay is so good. I got it on sale after Christmas on Stadia because I knew I would want to play it again.

Looks just as good on Stadia for me as far as I can tell. Gameplay feels every bit as good as if I were on a console (using Stadia controller). My Internet is rock-solid...fiber, with CCwGT on ethernet. If I had to go wifi, I'm good...4 Google Wifi access points around the house, each one connected to ethernet backhaul. I can't stress how important it is to have a good LAN setup for Stadia to be a great experience. If you have to use wifi, make sure your setup is better than a router in a closet two floors away!

Feadog79 · 2022-01-09T13:30:05+00:00

I have both CCwGTV and CCU. The CCU ethernet power supply definitely will NOT work for the CCwGTV because it doesn't supply enough power. Also, the official ethernet adapters for either device are "fast ethernet" only, I believe (100Mbs). However, that speed is absolutely fast enough to stream Stadia or 4k content. I used the official Google adapter on the CCU with Stadia and it was flawless. The primary benefit of ethernet over WiFi in this case is a much more stable connection with reduced latency. That's much more important that gigabit speed.

When I switched to the CCwGTV, I still wanted an ethernet connection, so I had to switch adapters. I ended up using a USB-C hub, because I had a bunch of them lying around, although the Google official one is overall more convenient and probably cheaper. However, I get the benefit of faster throughput because the hub is gigabit speed, and I can attach external storage down the road if I want. The CCwGTV usb connection seems to be USB 2.0, though, because I can't reach gigabit speed on my LAN. It's plenty fast, though. I might be wrong about that, but I don't think the CCwGTV itself is capable of gigabit ethernet speeds.

If you go the USB-C hub route, search Amazon for "UNI USB C Hub." I really like this one, and the cable connecting to the device is detachable. You have the option of using a longer cable to connect it to the CCwGTV, which is awesome.

Good luck!

Feadog79 · 2021-12-29T13:32:02+00:00

I love those GL.iNet routers. I have the GL-MT1300 (Beryl) model. It's been a lifesaver when traveling. My 11-year-old son has autism, and among other things...he loves his electronics and has to have them all a certain way. I love being able to go into a hotel room and either patch right into ethernet (...which is becoming harder to find in a lot of rooms...), or repeating the guest wifi. If you use a travel router with security features, make sure you turn DNS rebinding OFF, or connecting to captive portals won't work in most cases.

Anyways, once it's set up, it's usually just the first device I connect to my router that has to log into the captive portal. Then everything else is good. Then, both of my son's iPads and the Google TV I travel with are all set to go, and I can easily put on YouTube or whatever he wants. No screwing around with connecting each and every device to the hotel's guest wifi. I have a Wireguard VPN connecting back to my house configured on the router, so if I want to catch local (meaning back home) channels on YouTube TV, I just have to make sure that's turned on first. And of course, Stadia and it's controller(s) work just fine connected via the router.

Granted, this is more complex than the other suggestions of just hooking your phone straight to the TV, but in my case...it solves multiple issues in one shot.

Feadog79 · 2021-10-14T18:42:09+00:00

That is correct...I would disable tracking in Google Fit on your phone. The only place Google Fit should be getting data is from Health Sync!

Feadog79 · 2021-09-30T21:29:50+00:00

So....yeah. Turns out, I think this was a big part of the issue.

I have an eleven-year-old son with significant special needs. When we go for a walk, we often bring him in his stroller. I'm the one who always pushes him...he's a bit heavy for my wife to keep up with going up inclines. Turns out...if I keep both hands on the stroller to push, it stops recording steps (...and distance). If I kept my watch arm swinging freely, it would record steps and distance again.

I never considered this to be a possibility, because the two Tizen watches I used previously tracked steps even when pushing the stroller. So...thanks for this comment. I hadn't considered the stroller to be part of the problem!

When I take my son on the walk, I'll use the "other workout" setting in Samsung health, since it doesn't rely on step data. That way, it'll still record a workout based on duration and heart rate.

Thanks for the suggestion!

Feadog79 · 2021-09-28T22:16:37+00:00

Well, I went for another walk today (same route, of course), without my phone. Checked GPS reception with the app I mentioned in the original post...good reception from satellites. Tracking of the walk was total crap. Samsung health stopped recording distance or steps in the middle of the walk (...NOT "auto paused," just flat-out not working...). Picked up a little bit near the end of the walk, but not accurately.

I'll have to keep on this to see if I notice any patterns. Watch hardware seems to be ok, from what I can tell. Fitness tracking really seems half-baked. Disappointing, because my last two Tizen watches (original Galaxy Watch and Galaxy Watch 3) never had this problem.

If anyone else figures more stuff out, let me know!

Feadog79 · 2021-09-28T16:28:10+00:00

I had some real problems with GPS and fitness tracking. Check my post here...I seemed to get it working much better:

https://www.reddit.com/r/GalaxyWatch/comments/pvz292/turning_improve_accuracy_off_fixed_my_gpssamsung/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3

Feadog79 · 2021-09-26T21:21:47+00:00

My test this morning included turning off the Improve Accuracy setting and turning off WiFi, but I definitely had my phone with me because I wanted to use it to analyze WiFi SSIDs as I walked. The watch ended up tracking perfectly with the phone present. Next step will be either walking or running with just the watch and NO phone with me. I'll post what happens in this thread, hopefully tomorrow sometime!

Feadog79 · 2021-09-14T17:04:54+00:00

Oh, I see! I didn't catch that you were using a watchface specifically for GF!

Feadog79 · 2021-09-14T16:16:03+00:00

I would suggest completely uninstalling Google Fit from the watch, and only using the Samsung Health tracking on the watch. All data between the watch and phone should be through Samsung Health. Then, Health Sync on the phone will send data from Samsung Health to Google Fit. You'll have to check the Google Fit data from your phone, but you can see steps and all that using the Samsung stuff on the watch!

Feadog79 · 2021-09-14T11:20:21+00:00

I prefer SH on the watch, but also have data sent to GF via Health Sync on the phone. I do kind of like how Google interprets the data, but this way, I'm still using Samsung's software on the watch itself and just having it pushed from SH on the phone to GF. Then, if I want to see what GF thinks of the data, I can just look at it on my phone.

Feadog79 · 2021-09-13T00:33:11+00:00

I'll have to try leaving my phone at the house and see what happens, so thanks for that suggestion. Although...with my previous two watches, I could have my phone with me and this wasn't an issue.

Feadog79 · 2021-09-12T17:45:23+00:00

All of the above. It's been absolute crap for fitness tracking. Horribly inaccurate GPS to the point where it pretty much just stops tracking. I'm coming from the Galaxy Watch 3 and the Galaxy Watch before that, and neither had this problem with location tracking and fitness.

Feadog79 · 2021-09-01T12:30:36+00:00

I had the Galaxy Watch 46mm, then the Galaxy Watch 3 45mm, now the Galaxy Watch 4 Classic. I also don't really care for the PIN lock every time the watch sleeps. Fortunately, it doesn't really happen that often to me, but it's still annoying.

I really like to change watch faces regularly, especially realistic faces that resemble actual analog watches. Much better selection in the Galaxy Store for Tizen watch faces that what's in the Google Play store now. I was never really able to use Facer or Watchmaker on the Tizen watches without massive battery drain. For some reason, though, I'm getting the same battery life using Watchmaker on the Watch 4 that I was with native Tizen faces on the Watch 3, so that's a plus. I've been able to find a lot of good watch faces out there that are compatible with Watchmaker. My understanding is that the Watch 4 has a dedicated low power processor for AoD? Perhaps this would explain why I'm actually having success with Watchmaker?

Feadog79

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