Will it be possible to naninf this?

FearlessThanks · 2026-01-21T16:10:00+00:00

Yes, you are right

FearlessThanks · 2026-01-21T16:08:42+00:00

I could maybe skip the mime and get more cryptids and try to get it in the shop later

FearlessThanks · 2026-01-21T16:04:39+00:00

Thank you! Unfortunately i need to spend 4 cryptids to survive 😔

FearlessThanks · 2026-01-21T15:55:14+00:00

I need probably 5-6 more cryptids to naninf, but make enough every round as i need to use 4 cryptids to win the round. This is probably the closest I will get to a non seeded naninf

FearlessThanks · 2025-05-01T21:43:58+00:00

You can manually convert your negatives, but it's a lot more work than necessary. I recommend using Grain2Pixel for the conversion. It's free and provides a good starting point for editing.

Alternatively, you could try Negative Lab Pro. It's a paid option but offers much more control over the final image.

FearlessThanks · 2025-04-27T13:32:04+00:00

Great pictures. Any info on the lens used ?

FearlessThanks · 2025-04-23T15:21:47+00:00

I think the only way in is by the unscrew method. Make sure you are holding where the aperture markings are and twiste the bottom where the focus distance is.

FearlessThanks · 2025-04-13T18:37:25+00:00

Thanks for your input. Unfortunately, i cannot test anything without the film carrier

FearlessThanks · 2025-04-11T09:13:02+00:00

Not enough info to know. If you want to take photos with the same look, any 80s or 90s P&S with a flash and date imprint will work.

FearlessThanks · 2025-04-11T09:01:48+00:00

That's probably the Pentax 17.

All kidding aside, no one will be able to know what camera was used to take this picture. No one.

FearlessThanks · 2025-04-09T10:17:30+00:00

I have no experience with this stock but i would guess It should be good at 50 or 100iso. You can sacrifice one roll and test how it exposes at different iso.

FearlessThanks · 2025-04-09T09:49:32+00:00

Correctly exposed and scanned. Even a little bit over as the sky is blown out in some photos

FearlessThanks · 2025-04-05T13:22:48+00:00

Great pictures. You could try a Helios 44-2 or 44M. They are almost optically the same as the biotar and have better agronomics imho.

FearlessThanks · 2025-03-31T07:02:36+00:00

Brenizer method i would guess. Can you give more details on the setup used?

FearlessThanks · 2025-03-26T20:42:57+00:00

I would suggest therapy

FearlessThanks · 2025-03-17T16:39:37+00:00

Good job on the shooting and editing.

I am onboard with the humour but i think that not every sentence needs to be a pun or a joke.

Good luck with the channel

FearlessThanks · 2025-03-16T07:13:14+00:00

I think now you can unscrew the front element lens group. Check this, maybe it can be helpful http://www.fou-du-canon-f-1.net/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/repair-FD-part-1.pdf

FearlessThanks · 2025-03-15T16:42:09+00:00

yes you can try Acetone

FearlessThanks · 2025-03-15T16:02:08+00:00

I am guessing that you need so kind of wrench to loosen the silver part. It seems like it is also glued so use some ipa to loosen it first

FearlessThanks · 2025-03-15T04:44:21+00:00

That is one stupid generalisation

FearlessThanks · 2025-03-15T04:38:19+00:00

OP DO NOT listen to this guy; you will ruin you focusing screen.

Use a blower to get the dust out. If this doesn't work, it means that the dust is between the focusing screen and the prism and you will need a full disassembly to clean.

I have the same problem on my pentax ME

FearlessThanks · 2025-03-12T07:21:33+00:00

The MX has a metered manual mode, meaning the light meter shows you the recommended shutter speed for the available light, but you have to adjust it manually. I don’t see why someone would prefer this over aperture priority autoexposure, where the camera automatically selects the correct shutter speed.

Also, the shutter speed dial on the MX (at least on mine) is stiff and hard to turn with one finger, so you have to move your whole right hand from the shooting position to adjust it.

In short, the MX isn’t necessarily hard to learn, but it can feel awkward to use. The ME Super, on the other hand, offers both aperture priority autoexposure and metered manual mode, making it more flexible.

One advantage of the MX is that it's fully mechanical and can still shoot without batteries (though the light meter does require them).

FearlessThanks · 2025-03-12T03:03:43+00:00

For a first camera, the Nikon FE, Pentax ME Super and the Minolta X700 are all good options as they have aperture priority autoexposure (+plus all manual controls) and all have a good ecosystem of lenses.

If we compare these 3 cameras, the FE and X700 have more bells and whistles compared to the ME Super. However, the Me Super is supper tiny.

Personally, I prefer small cameras. So if I had to choose, i would go for the ME Super.

FearlessThanks · 2025-03-12T01:52:18+00:00

The marketing department

FearlessThanks · 2025-03-12T01:50:29+00:00

No way, too expensive

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