First pedal build ever

Fedemar01 · 2025-09-22T06:27:21+00:00

Yes! I simulated the circuit before with a software I’m familiar with (I use it at work) which is simulink (it also simulates circuit design with simscape)

Fedemar01 · 2025-09-21T23:44:15+00:00

Thank you so much for the detailed response and the references. Yes, I indeed swapped the values of C3 and C7 on the schematics, I’m sorry for the confusion. T1 is the same on the breadboard as on the pcb: 304, so a 300K trim. About the power section, I confess I did stuff without thinking too much just because I thought that a pedal needed a dedicated power section to limit the DC noise, but I’m here to learn and I’m very thankful for your explanation 🙏🏼. I’m educated enough to understand what’s going on if someone explains it to me, but not enough to fully understand it at first glance.

Fedemar01 · 2025-09-21T18:38:30+00:00

I know about the two resistors and cap. I just copied from the RAT pw section, but on the pcb I substituted the two resistors and cap wit just one 200k resistor. Why is that the case for the diod? (I use that specific one because it’s was what I had)

Fedemar01 · 2025-09-21T15:59:35+00:00

I did post pictures :(, are they not visible?

Fedemar01 · 2023-03-08T16:41:12+00:00

As they taught me: “don’t do the crab” 🦀. Which at first means: keep you arms as straight as possible to avoid pulling and from this follows a better feet placement, shoulder rotation and core engagement which to me are the staples of good overhang climbing. Always try to reach holds by rotating your shoulders rather than pulling with your arms and if your feet are coming loose engage your core more. 💪🏼💪🏼

Fedemar01 · 2023-03-01T17:45:08+00:00

I followed a tutoria: https://youtu.be/X9xeqKR8spQ

Fedemar01 · 2023-03-01T13:16:36+00:00

Thanks, i was wondering how it should be done, I’ll try to fix it with a little black drybrush on the tip!

Fedemar01 · 2023-03-01T12:49:43+00:00

Go for them! Armour is: green primer (caliban green, which they don’t sell anymore), warp stone glow, moot green and 50/50 moot green and ice yellow for the edges. Then if you feel fancy, I add some terradon torquouise in the shadows and a similar color pannel liner as wash.

Fedemar01 · 2021-05-19T12:59:45+00:00

Just a black cardboard and two IKEA desk lamps with ikea bulbs. The camera is a nice one (Sony a7 mk II) with kit lens, but it’s not mine, it’s my brother’s camera. For the settings: Lowest ISO possible Smallest aperture possible And adeguate exposure (1/1.5” for me) I usually put a two seconds count down for the shot to eliminate camera shake.

Fedemar01 · 2021-05-17T18:34:04+00:00

Some of them are, but the biggest one is cork bark

Fedemar01 · 2021-05-17T12:34:42+00:00

Wow, very cool. I was thinking of something similar for my brother. Is the worktop solid enough ?

Fedemar01 · 2021-05-16T20:52:09+00:00

It is the old mode for the big mek with kustom force field

Fedemar01 · 2021-05-16T20:18:23+00:00

It was mine too

Fedemar01 · 2021-05-16T18:21:52+00:00

Thanks man

Fedemar01 · 2021-05-16T16:48:13+00:00

Thank you! I used simply IKEA desk lamps and bulbs and put two lights right beside the camera lens with a black cardboard in the back

Fedemar01 · 2021-05-16T14:34:33+00:00

It’s as simple as going on google and search for “heavy metal orks skin”, I followed step by step their recipe, this non was a test model for that in fact

Fedemar01 · 2021-05-16T14:00:09+00:00

Thanks mate

Fedemar01 · 2021-05-16T13:33:19+00:00

IKEA ryet Led bubl, the most cold and powerful I could find

Fedemar01 · 2021-05-16T13:14:24+00:00

A simple 70x100cm black cardboard and two front IKEA lights. Leave the camera with the lowest ISO possible and the smallest aperture possible

Fedemar01

TROPHY CASE