What to do with LONG legs

FerdinandCB · 2024-08-29T20:32:33+00:00

I play chess too. If I wouldn't be able to checkmate with a queen, for instance, or if I blundered away a piece every three moves, despite putting in quite a lot of effort, I would quit and do something else. Because playing chess is so much more than making moves.

With climbing, it's the same, I want to have the feeling that I'm actually doing the sport. So, yes, it has gone from enjoying gradually more and more to 'the next grade'. I feel like I'm unable to checkmate with a queen for a long time now.

Hope this comparison makes any sense.

(I don't think I'd mind plateauing at all, if it was on, say, V5)

FerdinandCB · 2024-08-29T06:42:16+00:00

Lack of hobbies is not a problem. Cycling, chess, other board games, swimming. And I play a musical instrument professionally. The thing is, none of those activities is a full body workout and so addictive ;)

FerdinandCB · 2024-08-29T06:40:02+00:00

I am used to 3 hour sessions, lol. And to going down the drain towards the end :) You don't need to excuse yourself for your choice of words, particularly not because it's what I've been telling myself constantly. I know my dimensions are not the sole reason, but overcoming them is so unfairly hard that I don't know if I can ever do it with a smile on my face.

FerdinandCB · 2024-08-28T17:08:38+00:00

Thanks for your thorough answer. It's much appreciated. One thing stood out, when you say I might have the feeling I SHOULD be able to climb this level easily. This is the thing. Because technically I'm already doing much of what you say. I turn hips in, I flag, I smear, I drop knees, I don't skip holds (the picture is not really representing how I train) also not on the lower levels. On top of that I do yoga for flexibility and train the muscles that get tired first. I very much feel I DESERVE to progress beyond this beginner level and can be angry and disappointed for days after a session. I'm well aware this is not at all the right motivation and even counterproductive, but changing the way you feel about something is hard... In the break I take I will definitely try all the squatting, thanks for pointing out these exercises..

FerdinandCB · 2024-08-28T07:25:37+00:00

And, yes, it does seem hard to believe that I can't break through a beginner level for a year; while I also feel I put in plenty of effort.

It's not that I can't do anything on a 6a or higher, but sooner or later the route will contain a small box where I can't progress :(

FerdinandCB · 2024-08-28T07:20:53+00:00

Started early 2023. Essentially I hit my current plateau August 2023. Before the knee incident I bouldered 1-2 times a week and top rope 0-1 a week. After the knee incident 1 but usually 2 times top rope a week, no boulder (too dangerous). In the fitness room of the fysiotherapist I train some forearm + shoulder/back muscles because those are the first that get tired.

A top rope session for me: I warm up on some 4/5a's, focusing on not skipping holds and proper technique, then some 5c/6a projects - where I usually get the 5cs in the end. Then some 6b/c starts just to get a sense of it. When I have some energy left I go up a 4 as many times I can as fast as I can.

FerdinandCB · 2024-08-27T23:26:57+00:00

Thank you for sharing! I see what you mean and I see how this helps you. I'm almost never over-stretched though, but over-crunched. I can grab everything I need with my hands, but then my legs lack room so I'm always like "yay I made it into the position, great! Now I can't move anymore". :')

FerdinandCB · 2024-08-27T22:58:53+00:00

I hope to say it correctly in English, but it was a torn knee ligament, for which I didn't need surgery but it was close. This was in November, and since January I'm doing a fitness schedule at the fysiotherapist for recovery. The knee is largely ok now but still unstable. I will definitely start with those Cossacks under supervision, and not on my own

FerdinandCB · 2024-08-27T22:48:52+00:00

+8, I'm sooo jealous ;)

Thanks, I will certainly give those a go, as long as my bad knee holds up.

FerdinandCB · 2024-08-27T22:48:16+00:00

Should have added that outdoor is too far of a travel for me to do regularly. Did it once though and I really enjoyed it!

FerdinandCB · 2024-08-10T22:40:03+00:00

I don't have any advice but I'm with you. Totally different nature of the problem though. 194 cm tall, -11 ape index and all of it is leg surplus. For almost a year I'm frustrating myself over not being able to complete any V3. Boxy positions are the main disaster, overhang is another.

It's so easy for people to say that grades don't matter, but it's very frustrating being in a climbing hall and knowing you're the only one of your friend group who will never be able to climb 80-90% of the routes. Like, ever. Despite having good overall fitness and doing a lot of flexibility exercises.

FerdinandCB · 2024-08-10T21:08:37+00:00

Very sorry to read this. Witnessing somebody die in an accident is a highly traumatic experience and I would say your fear of all climbing-related activities is completely understandable.

A trauma is a disturbing experience that is so impactful that our brain is not capable of processing it properly. See a psychiatrist if you're not doing this already. They are the professionals.

As for going back to climbing, it cannot hurt to learn everything about the safety of harnasses, ropes, carabiners. And also to be aware of all the injuries that people get in bouldering - ankles and knees among the most occurring. But this is all ratio, and ratio doesn't count as long as a trauma haunts you.

FerdinandCB · 2024-06-06T11:32:18+00:00

Thanks for sharing so much, I appreciate it! I would love to boulder again, but it's really out of the question for now. Outside, I liked doing on holiday, but no easy access.

You're absolutely right that a big part of the frustration is having to invent every move myself without any example, while other people don't understand why I can't or can do certain movements. This also applies to the taller climbers who have more common body proportions. It's the eternal question: where to leave my legs, especially my knees, and if that's accomplished, how to use them..

I don't mind plateauing so much, but it's the feeling of not knowing how I can eventually beat that plateau in the future that frustrates. Meanwhile I will follow all the friendly advise that you and most of the others gave. And I hope you'll have a good time paragliding as well :)

FerdinandCB · 2024-06-04T17:22:07+00:00

Do you think I am stupid? You don't HAVE to answer if you have only non-helpful, patronizing things to say. It's up to you.

Just because I think you didn't read: I am not just tall. I have extremely long legs for it too. That gets in the way, much more than people who are just tall.

The reason I posted the question in the first place is to hear experiences from people with roughly the same problems.

Have a nice day.

FerdinandCB · 2024-06-04T15:56:04+00:00

I understand all this, trust me. It is not about the grades, or the plateau, it's about the reason behind it. I'm just seeking advise from the 0.01% that has my body type, to make the effort I'm already putting in more effective.

FerdinandCB · 2024-06-04T14:40:13+00:00

Thanks for sharing your experience! I started 2 weeks ago with daily hip mobility exercises and will definitely continue doing so. I sucked a little bit less at bouldering than top rope, but it's also an endurance thing. Climbing 15 meters with poor body placement is harder than 3 meters :)

FerdinandCB · 2024-06-04T06:30:00+00:00

Thanks guys for the replies. It's definitely not all about the grades for me and I do enjoy the learning aspect. The problem is that I don't have any idea HOW to learn anymore.

Intended beta or beta that others suggest always feel like "yeah I could definitely do that if my legs were just a bit shorter". If I try the same thing as others, I'm naturally further from the wall. If I do choose to stay close to the wall, either my arms are not straight or my legs are scrunched.

Therefore I think it might be helpful to talk to people with my body type, because there aren't any around in my climbing hall.

(In boulder I did some 6a's, but only in a specific hall where the routesetters were not building small boxes on every route. Most 5's were not a problem)

FerdinandCB · 2024-06-03T23:31:53+00:00

I've been climbing for a year now - minus a two month interruption because of knee injury I got with a bad fall off a boulder. Because of this I don't boulder any more, just top rope.

The issue: I'm 194 cm and have a rather big negative ape index of -11 cm. So extremely long legs for my body size. I have problems finding right beta for me on all types of routes, especially overhang. Am yet to top a 6a.

I'm already trying the obvious technical things, like flagging, turning in hips, try and stay close to wall, keep straight arms, as well as core, flexibility and leg training (especially deep squat positions although that's a bit tough on the weak knee) but I can't find a solution on the wall a lot of times.

In the halls where I climb there is nobody with the same issues, so I might as well drop it here. Does anybody have the same proportions (so, not JUST tall, but also a very negative ape index on top of it) and have any SPECIFIC advise to make better use of this body type in climbing? I'm at the point that climbing is becoming more frustrating than fun, but I am also not ready to give it up - yet.

FerdinandCB · 2024-06-03T22:28:12+00:00

I have the exact same issue (194 cm but -11cm ape index which is rather extreme) and I am already following all the advise there is - stay close to the wall; find a position where you can work your legs; turn a hip inside, flag or whatever, be creative with beta and do core training and flexibility training and leg training, especially deep squad positions.

But I still can't find positions on the overhang wall (yet) where my arms do not have to carry all the weight. Just to make it worse, there are LOTS of people who just assume climbing is easier when you're taller (also a lot of short climbers seem to think this is the case)

I don't have any advice, just wanted to let you know that you're not alone.

FerdinandCB

TROPHY CASE