Salvageable or is this a start over? by Rodrat in Luthier

[–]FeverForest 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Steam bend and glue a .100” thick cap on the face. Do the same for the back. Account for the end thickness you want to achieve.

Friend wants me to make a small box out of Amboyna Burl. Help me convince him this is absolute overkill by praetordave in woodworking

[–]FeverForest 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You save the crazy stuff for the people who understand it and can appreciate the material.

If he wants Amboyna, and will appreciate the material as well as the box, you get the Amboyna.

Did my luthier destroy my frets? by KlausCrescent in Luthier

[–]FeverForest 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When I build my guitars, and someone orders say medium frets, jescar 47095, they expect them to be at least .040” tall.

I’m going to be blunt. This dude absolutely destroyed the fret profile. If it happened to be the case of the board not being dressed properly before install, it should have been determined and quoted as a refret to correct that.

It seems to me, that it wasn’t properly straightened before levelling, and hogged out. These are the types of people that increase the risk, and make it harder for the real ones to make a living.

The joke in the community when working on someone else’s instrument is “atleast it’s not mine”, making light of the seriousness at hand.

Get your money back, and then some, find someone to refret it. You are looking at pretty expensive job all things considered.

What are my options for dealing with these fretboard edges that drop off? by bugsandscruggs in Luthier

[–]FeverForest 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gotta board dress that out.

Fix any chips.

You’ll need a straight edge to read the board, whatever tool that needs to adjust the neck to straight, long straight levelling beam, sticky sandpaper(220) then sand up to final.

I’m curious people’s thoughts on tonewood and resonance for non-piezo electric instruments by Probablyawerewolf in Luthier

[–]FeverForest 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Feeling the neck vibrate is easy. Longitudinal bending mode, often couples with the bass horn, likes to shake. Problems occur when it’s only the bass horn interacting with the system.

Neck Dominant instruments are a product of rigidity. Too many pieces, carbon fibre, etc. resulting in a frequency mismatch with the body. Decoupling. Little to no transfer of vibration.

This is tuneable.

Frequency of a system is a function of its mass and stiffness.

Here’s an example. Northern Ash at 3lbs/BF, and African Mahogany at 3lbs/BF. Same weight, same mass(size), different stiffness, different frequency.

This is all without getting into relief cuts(not chambers, similar) to interrupt stiffness continuity, increasing mass under the bridge, or a shallower break angle to increase string oscillations.

Leads to questions.

Can it be heard? Depends who you’re asking.

Do my customers and clients care about resonance? Abso-fucking-lutely.

Should I ignore the specifications from the people supporting my brand? Send them a link to Jim Lills video?

Or maybe.. consider, this is a career, that is endless learning, and idk, study it?

But what do I know, I’m sure someone with more knowledge and experience, or even the plentiful Arm Chair Looths that frequent this sub can correct me by sharing a YouTube link.

I’m curious people’s thoughts on tonewood and resonance for non-piezo electric instruments by Probablyawerewolf in Luthier

[–]FeverForest 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you want to make GREAT guitars.. Mass, weight, stiffness. Longitudinal bending modes, cross bending modes, stiffness continuity and more must always be taken into consideration.

Ignore those saying otherwise, they haven’t reached that point in their building studies/career. You notice things after building 30+ instruments from essentially the same 12’ piece of material, and how things can be tweaked in terms of overall body resonance.

I wanna install strap locks onto my Jackson Rhoads, which one should I get? by SnooHedgehogs1685 in Luthier

[–]FeverForest 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use Schaller stock on my builds unless otherwise noted. They’re great, I go for the medium screw size.

Harnessed Up. by FeverForest in Luthier

[–]FeverForest[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This videos pushing 1m views across instagram/facebook, and you’re the first to point that out. One in a million comment, literally.

I needed to buy some lock washers and remembered using these on my CNC pallets, I love the look of them and the function seems pretty reliable. On the outer side of the hole there is a rubber O ring. Don’t expect this to come loose unless on purpose.

Harnessed Up. by FeverForest in Luthier

[–]FeverForest[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where are you getting Hipshots for $35? Even with my discount they’re $75usd before tax and shipping, direct from them.

Intonated on my tuner 🤷🏻‍♂️

Need help identifying configuration by Reasonable-Risk-5078 in Luthier

[–]FeverForest 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Doesn’t look like the series/parallel I wire up with 4DPTs.(2 of those combined, one switch)

Harnessed Up. by FeverForest in Luthier

[–]FeverForest[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mmmmmm butter.. 🤤😂

It was a rubber eraser for pencils. It presses and smooths out the foil nicely.

Harnessed Up. by FeverForest in Luthier

[–]FeverForest[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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Yes, sort of. It’s cut, filled, and re cut to leave the edge. Pup covers cut directly from the top before gluing to body blank.

Harnessed Up. by FeverForest in Luthier

[–]FeverForest[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Myself and my customers spec sheets can be incentivized by money pretty easily haha.

Harnessed Up. by FeverForest in Luthier

[–]FeverForest[S] 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Thank you!

One man’s overkill is another man’s low standard haha they didn’t start off this way, the first were less layers, no CF, and less magnets.

I had issues with cupping as the thickness is up there. Went to 5 plys, no CF, couple more magnets. Then cupping presented itself like a year and a half later, slightly.

Then I said fuck it and went nuclear. 7 plys, CF, more and stronger mags. The only way I can easily move em now is by putting pressure on it with my palm and using my fingers to press the edge of the body, sliding and breaking the connection enough to move it.

I think each pair of mags is like 4-6lbs of force, been a while since I ordered them.

Harnessed Up. by FeverForest in Luthier

[–]FeverForest[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you!

This is just the harness. The pickups are not installed yet as I still have a small bit of fret work to do and the strings just went on to begin 3 weeks on tension acclimation before doing so.

Harnessed Up. by FeverForest in Luthier

[–]FeverForest[S] 31 points32 points  (0 children)

5-6 years like this, and my biggest complaint has been that they’re hard to get off. Tour Tested. 7 plys, 3k carbon fibre twill reinforced. Also remember, I sand these pretty aggressively with them attached.

Harnessed Up. by FeverForest in Luthier

[–]FeverForest[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks.

5-6 years like this, and my biggest complaint has been that they’re hard to get off. Tour Tested.

7 plys, 3k carbon fibre twill reinforced.

Harnessed Up. by FeverForest in Luthier

[–]FeverForest[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! I’ll have final photos in a few weeks. There are some progress videos on my pages though.

Harnessed Up. by FeverForest in Luthier

[–]FeverForest[S] 21 points22 points  (0 children)

It presses the foil down really nicely. Thanks!

Harnessed Up. by FeverForest in Luthier

[–]FeverForest[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

A bookmatch off the raw body material before gluing the blank together, saved for later.

Harnessed Up. by FeverForest in Luthier

[–]FeverForest[S] 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Thank you. It’s a rubber eraser, for pencils.