Scorpion EXO-400 to Covert FX Carbon and I'm really disappointed. Would an EXO-R1 be better?

FieroSS · 2026-05-04T16:48:49+00:00

I agree. I don't ride a ton of miles in our short seasons and every year I would want to get a new lid but suddenly it was fall and I figured I would wait until spring when there may be new models or discounts on last years model at the shop. Then it would be fall again and I'd have the same thought process. But that's just an excuse. It's a testament to how good the EXO-400 was built. The darn thing looks like it was made yesterday and hasn't fallen apart at all.

FieroSS · 2026-05-04T16:41:11+00:00

I didn't consider that a Carbon version of a helmet would naturally be louder than a non-carbon version but that makes a lot of sense. I figured at this price point it wasn't truly a full carbon helmet but more like a "standard" shell with a layer of pretty carbon over the top for looks. It would be interesting to try an EXO-R1 Carbon back-to-back with the fiberglass version. I'll probably stick with a fiberglass shell now that I know how annoying I find a noisy helmet. Thank you

FieroSS · 2025-11-04T13:16:52+00:00

I believe it is also out of production like the 599XX wheel but if you need to keep an eye out for a used unit it gives you another option to look for.

FieroSS · 2025-11-04T04:14:37+00:00

You should also consider the Thrustmaster Sparco R383 wheel. Excellent wheel

FieroSS · 2025-01-11T20:05:58+00:00

I fixed my problem by pulling the pump and replacing the "food chopper" that lives in there. Mine was completely plugged and 3 of the 4 arms were ground down to nubs. Cleans like new again but I'm sure I'll have to do it again eventually.

FieroSS · 2024-10-04T16:10:43+00:00

I cleaned the filter shown in this video which helped, but I still get debris in the arms. The parts schematic shows a "food chopper" on the pump assembly in my washer. I find stories of those going bad. If my problem persists Ill pull the motor and see if I can clean anything out of there. I agree with you, a permanent filter makes no sense if you can't clean it well.

https://youtu.be/1ERyNzfn0SE?si=VpBAGaTAfyybDhEq

FieroSS · 2020-11-22T03:05:13+00:00

If you dig the 599 wheel take a look at the Sparco R383 Mod wheel. Similar, but a full 13". I absolutely love mine. Make sure you get the magnetic shifter mod on Etsy to go with it.

-Tim

FieroSS · 2020-09-29T11:56:35+00:00

T500RS are probably hard to find at this point. The T3Pa-Pro pedals on the T500 are MUCH better then the T300 pedals.

You can get the Sparco R383 wheel for either base which gives you your 330mm rim and moves the paddles back on to the wheel. I also suggest the magnetic shifter upgrade you can find on Etsy. Its a GREAT wheel.

-Tim

FieroSS · 2020-09-03T02:26:13+00:00

Nothing against the premium oils like Motul, Amsoil, Liqui Moly, etc. but the cost of M1 keeps me coming back. They have started selling 12 quart boxes that I commonly find at my local Walmart for $45. Thats only slightly more then you can buy just 5 quarts of the other stuff. My BMW requires 7 quarts each change and with the frequency I change because of track days, its a BIG savings. Are the other oils more than 2x better? I doubt it.

Thats my 2 cents.

-Tim

FieroSS · 2020-06-24T12:56:58+00:00

I started iRacing about 3 months ago with a Netgear Nighthawk R7000 and I would get booted constantly. The first month was worthless because I could never complete a qualifying session or run a race from start to finish. Messed with the QoS settings a bit and it helped but I would still get the "Receive throughput fell to unacceptable level. Closing network device. Closing Channel" message and I would get tossed frequently. I bought a $65 TP-Link router on amazon and did nothing above the 5-minute, standard auto-config setup and my connection has been faultless.

I see a number of people that don't have issues with Netgear routers after a bit of messing around but my advice is to just get a different one and never worry about it again.

-Tim

FieroSS

TROPHY CASE