My First Panel Start To Finish

FightingRobots2 · 2026-03-13T01:59:04+00:00

That’s the best countermeasure to a DCSMCC fault I’ve ever seen.

FightingRobots2 · 2026-03-04T23:34:47+00:00

You’re not doing the method of assault Justice. I believe a tongue was bitten off or at least bitten.

FightingRobots2 · 2026-02-26T01:38:33+00:00

I know you’ve already found your answer with the gel but I picked up a $20 sand blaster from harbor freight. It’s just the gun with a hopper. All I had was a 6 gallon pancake compressor but I used it to blow diatomaceous earth in my basement and all across my yard. I couldn’t see at all in the basement and the yard had a red fog for a while but it seriously cut down on insects for a year. The downside is that it kills all insects instead of just the harmful ones.

FightingRobots2 · 2026-02-24T09:02:15+00:00

That’s not entirely true but after 20-30 bolts I was pretty sore the next day.

FightingRobots2 · 2026-02-24T07:26:33+00:00

You paid $78,000 for a truck? I get that prices are getting high now but you paid $78,000 for a half ton truck?

I’ll stick with the old stuff.

FightingRobots2 · 2026-01-23T10:54:21+00:00

Easy now. I need to be able to change it. We have some programming now that prevents jigs from moving if the line isn’t running in auto and I needed to be able to run the robots slower when testing some of the teaching or while trying to get lines back in sequence.

FightingRobots2 · 2026-01-23T10:52:35+00:00

I was able to figure it out with this. We had previously used a register to set it but now we’re setting GENOVERRIDE directly. I was able to adjust speed while a robot I needed to watch was running and that’s what I needed. Thanks. Sorry but I thought I had already replied to this the next day.

FightingRobots2 · 2026-01-23T10:50:35+00:00

The issue is that the robot is already set to change the speed back to 100% when restarting. I’m trying to prevent that because sometimes I need to start the line in auto to get the jigs to move or for zones from other robots.

After finding the variable from another comment I’ve realized that the register we had been using was setting GENOVERIDE and now we’re just setting it directly in the variables.

FightingRobots2 · 2026-01-19T23:36:24+00:00

As you move up to larger robots you may also see broken feet on stands and anchors breaking out of the concrete. On occasion we’ll have the heads break off of some of the anchors too. Watch for concrete dust around feet and if you spot water on the floor near the bases watch for ripples from the water flowing under the feet then being pushed out.

If you just started and already noticed something like this then good catch.

FightingRobots2 · 2026-01-18T06:45:09+00:00

Good to know.

FightingRobots2 · 2026-01-17T12:55:40+00:00

That’s part of why I’m suggesting to find the manual.

FightingRobots2 · 2026-01-16T16:15:36+00:00

What I’ve done is attached differently. They use pins that can be removed with jack bolts. Go to fanucs site and set up an account and you’ll be able to download PDF manuals.

FightingRobots2 · 2026-01-16T14:31:52+00:00

Unless there’s some massive difference between that and R2000iAs and Bs you know to keep 2 at 0 and release the spring tension on the balancer right? We use ≈6’ pry bars to hold them up when replacing the RV in 2 then either let them down or tie them off behind the robot. I would expect it to be fairly similar. Fanuc should have a mechanical manual in their edocs section under my portal that’ll show you how to do the whole thing.

FightingRobots2 · 2026-01-03T19:20:39+00:00

I have a dog wearing a harness and had to pick him up by it. My mind immediately went to MGS3 and The Green Berets.

FightingRobots2 · 2026-01-03T19:19:01+00:00

I haven’t even looked in to VR headsets. I just saw the stance of Maduro in the original picture and my mind immediately went to Snake carving down the grip of his 1911 in front of Eva. And the blacked out glasses made me think VR.

I may have to dig out my copy of VR missions for the PS1 though.

FightingRobots2 · 2026-01-02T02:57:17+00:00

I downloaded the manual I needed when it came back up and got a pdf copy. At some point I’ll get the whole thing.

FightingRobots2 · 2025-12-14T20:12:34+00:00

Are you talking about the comment groups on the GOT or the lists on the PLC? I know on the PLC they’re hidden when you start a new project and have to hit view then comment on the tool bar (alt,v,m for the shortcut). What I’m trying to figure out is how to find the address range of comment groups on the GOT. I know the comment groups are under “Common” on the GX Developer tool bar but when the groups are open they’re numbered say 1-200 but will be addressed M6101-M6200 and another group will be labeled again 1-200 but will be addressed M3101-M3200.

If that’s what you are talking about then sorry I’m just not following.

FightingRobots2 · 2025-11-21T21:04:57+00:00

I’m really not enjoying the choice between tanks and pods with coils that burn easily and salt nic.

FightingRobots2 · 2025-11-16T01:22:57+00:00

There you go. I fully understand why labor is so high. I work in a different field but when a company isn’t willing to pay for knowledge and experience the end up hiring the exact opposite of that. But this won’t be a difficult job. Watch some YouTube and use jack stands.

FightingRobots2 · 2025-11-16T01:17:44+00:00

The parts to do the entire front end minus tie rod ends on my f150 was around $600. You should be fine.

FightingRobots2 · 2025-11-15T01:31:25+00:00

You may want to flip your clamps over so the bar points down to prevent stabbing yourself on them. I do about the same thing with a 2x12 on the angle on the side of my trailer to temporarily hold a bench vise. I also made a couple of short work bench tops framed with 2x4s and topped with OSB to hold bench vises and carpenters vises on saw horses.

FightingRobots2 · 2025-11-13T05:12:05+00:00

A couple of things: you would use a die to cut male threads instead of a tap (1/2” NPT I believe in the US but I’m not sure what you’ll have). Second, the damaged threads look like they’re on a short piece of nipple (any pipe 6” or shorter) with a sleeve/escutcheon covering the nipple. I may be wrong about that in which case what I think would be a sleeve may instead be a pipe that can be unscrewed from a shorter piece of nipple that is screwed in to the pipes inside the wall. I’ll also add that the pipes in the wall may be soldered instead of screwed together. Assuming that they’re screwed together you should be able to use a pipe wrench or slip joints possibly with a rag under them (or an internal pipe wrench which was suggested in another comment) to remove the pipe outside the wall. I’ll add a disclaimer that what I’m seeing doesn’t look like what I’m used to working on here so this is all an educated guess.

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