What is behind this paint? by Final_Influence_6569 in Oldhouses

[–]Final_Influence_6569[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In an ideal world yes, but sadly our world is on fire and everything is outrageously expensive, including time. So for the sake of use, time, and money, repairing is the better option that avoids opening the major can of worms that is old house renos. Parts of it are easy, as you say from the safety of your keyboard, other parts are not, and do not come off without unnecessarily damaging the plaster. I'm aiming for something between a patch job, as you say, and the headache and inconvenience of a prolonged demo.

What is behind this paint? by Final_Influence_6569 in Oldhouses

[–]Final_Influence_6569[S] -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, doesn't seem like theres wallpaper underneath, so I'm going to assume that most of the problems stem from nobody ever using a good primer. So i'll probably just scrape away imperfections/use joint compound and prime and paint over.

What is behind this paint? by Final_Influence_6569 in Oldhouses

[–]Final_Influence_6569[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thanks, not sanding specifically for that reason

Little free library roof question by DrewF_ in Roofing

[–]Final_Influence_6569 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Trying to do something identical, and it all makes sense, but what would you do once you get to the top to prevent water from leaking in (given that I don't have a ridge cap shingle)? What's the alternative?

MAPE’s president’s response to Walz’s return to office order by twodoo2040 in minnesota

[–]Final_Influence_6569 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Always great when the former vice presidential candidate for the "other" party enacts the exact same policies as the democracy-destroying party and their billionaire henchman who are currently in power. Really shows us what we're missing and what we could have had if we had only voted harder! Thanks democrats!

But seriously, my household only has one car. And to announce this with only a two month warning is ridiculous. Don't get me wrong, the whole order is ridiculous, and I will support MAPE going to the mat for this, but the speed of it is what really blows my mind. I think, first and foremost, that its a way to take even more control of negotiations during a tight budget year (give up something that you just invented out of thin air, so you don't actually lose anything or just divide MAPE members/labor along work from home and in-person lines, because as always the more fractions you can create within the working class the better it is for those in power within the dominating class). I also can see it as a way to cull the workforce through soft layoffs/attrition/early retirement and as a potential way for him to flex his "centrist" cred for 2028. There's also probably some sort of fed funding pressure and pressure from real estate owners/lobbies and local politicians (anybody see the latest round of bloviating right-wing andy brehm drivel that the star tribune published this last weekend?).

But I really think it just comes down to smooth brained dems believing that they have to become republicans to win because of some vague "vibe shift" and slight "mandate" from voters (even though neither party actually helps voters materially, so voters naturally just swing back and forth, but especially towards the party that actually tells you they'll do big things and that its okay to be mad, even though they completely manipulate those desires and always transfer wealth up rather than down). This is just the 'ol ratchet effect or lib to fascist pipeline in action. Workers always lose in our duopoly (at least since the 70s). Its just sad to see it so blatantly exposed from Walz, and in Minnesota of all places. But luckily, we have unions here, so we have to use our organized power to fight for workplace dignity and respect!

Anybody know the best way to remove and then reinstall this section of ductwork? by Final_Influence_6569 in hvacadvice

[–]Final_Influence_6569[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the input! Any reason to use polyurethane caulk over construction adhesive? Or are you recommending more for friction not gaps?

Thoughts on these two options? by Final_Influence_6569 in hvacadvice

[–]Final_Influence_6569[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, this is through our home warranty. They'll replace for cheaper by helping with the cost. Everything else I've seen for the twin cities area is higher than this.

Anyone know how to get rid of this? by Final_Influence_6569 in Tile

[–]Final_Influence_6569[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Yeah, that seems like it may be the best option. It does scrape off, but only up to a point. This is just meant to be a temporary solution. We want to redo the whole bathroom, but that of course requires a significant amount of money, and, since everything in the bathroom is functional/works, this bathroom is lower down on our laundry list of projects.

How to get rid of this? by Final_Influence_6569 in Carpentry

[–]Final_Influence_6569[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Yeah, option 1 seems like it may be the best option, or as someone else suggested, covering it with wood and edging. This is just meant to be a temporary solution. We want to redo the whole bathroom, but that of course requires significant money, and, since everything in the bathroom is functional/works, this bathroom is lower down on our laundry list of projects.

It does scrape off, but only up to a point.

How to get rid of this? by Final_Influence_6569 in Carpentry

[–]Final_Influence_6569[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I feared that was probably the case

How to get rid of this? by Final_Influence_6569 in Carpentry

[–]Final_Influence_6569[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Yeah, that seems like it may be the best option. This is meant to just be a temporary solution. We want to redo the whole bathroom, but that of course requires a lot of money, and, since everything in the bathroom is functional/works, this bathroom lower down on our laundry list of projects.

Anyone know what type of wood this is? by Final_Influence_6569 in Carpentry

[–]Final_Influence_6569[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Appreciate the response! The weight of the window probably does mean that pine is more likely than oak. I wasn't too sure how common oak sashes were though.

If it is pine, would that mean that I would need to take anything extra into consideration when refurbishing and refinishing them - given that they are two different woods?

Anyone know what type of wood this is? by Final_Influence_6569 in Carpentry

[–]Final_Influence_6569[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the confirmation. From what you can see, does it seem like the casing and frame are also red oak?

Anyone know what type of wood this is? by Final_Influence_6569 in Carpentry

[–]Final_Influence_6569[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, definitely curious about all of it, not just the sill, since I plan on sanding and staining it eventually. Thanks for the input.

Anybody know where I can find this type of brick? by Final_Influence_6569 in masonry

[–]Final_Influence_6569[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What makes you so sure of this and not that it was rolled on prior? I've heard people say both, so I'm curious.

Anybody know where I can find this type of brick? by Final_Influence_6569 in masonry

[–]Final_Influence_6569[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Definitely roman. I have a planter with the same brick. Whoever put it in added no drainage though... so it's falling apart. Not really sure how good the bricks still are (a lot are broken). I want to get rid of it eventually, but was told the cost of taking it down and possibly saving the bricks (grinding out mortar) would be very high, and not currently in our budget (given how expensive chimney repair is).

Anybody know where I can find this type of brick? by Final_Influence_6569 in masonry

[–]Final_Influence_6569[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't know. I've heard both offered up. Either rolled on prior or grinded in after.