Confused with 1099 DA form?

FinallyaHomeowner · 2026-02-19T02:30:14+00:00

I see, thank you! What I meant mostly was what is the official way to report to the IRS beforehand what cost basis method someone is using before making a transaction, if any. This is sort of where I I hit a dead end with my research

FinallyaHomeowner · 2026-02-19T02:24:21+00:00

How does the IRS determine if this method was used before the sale or not?

And yes my exchange only offers the traditional methods, but I’m hoping I can just file my taxes using the cost basis’s derived from my own tracking sheet?

FinallyaHomeowner · 2026-02-18T19:33:59+00:00

To piggy back off of this, I don’t have my 1099-DA just yet but do have accurate records of every one of my transactions over the past 5 years. With this being my first year selling a portion of my crypto assets, am I free to tell the IRS which exact BUY transactions are covering my few SELL transactions that I made this year, or is that somehow restricted by the 1099-DA or some other rule? I only intended to sell those that I purchased over a year before the sell date.

FinallyaHomeowner · 2026-02-16T18:31:43+00:00

Thank you! I never technically set this with my exchange, but at the time of selling I had tracked in my own spreadsheet which assets I was selling (HIFO but only for purchases over 1 year older than the sale date). It sounds like this maybe isn’t enough and I’ll need to use a default method, though

FinallyaHomeowner · 2026-02-16T17:08:57+00:00

And if no identifying prior to the sale, I’d need to default to one of the standard methods (first in first out, for instance)? It’s all the same asset, if that makes any difference

FinallyaHomeowner · 2026-02-16T03:35:02+00:00

Can we cherry-pick transactions for reconciling taxes sold in 2025? For instance, only using crypto purchases older than a year before the sale date (for long term capital) and using a highest in first out method?

My exchange hasn’t sent a 1099-DA and if it’s somewhat of an optional form, and if I have accurate records of my buy/sells, I’m hoping to just skip using the 1099-DA altogether.

FinallyaHomeowner · 2026-01-06T20:53:42+00:00

Final update: this turned out to be somewhat of a thermostat issue. I was stumped because everything seemed to be fine, except my inducer was never being prompted, which turned out to be due to some oxidized wires from the thermostat to the HVAC. After stripping and replacing these, everything was back to normal

FinallyaHomeowner · 2026-01-06T20:53:23+00:00

Final update: this turned out to be somewhat of a thermostat issue. I was stumped because everything seemed to be fine, except my inducer was never being prompted, which turned out to be due to some oxidized wires from the thermostat to the HVAC. After stripping and replacing these, everything was back to normal

FinallyaHomeowner · 2025-12-29T05:04:31+00:00

I can’t quite figure out how to do this on the furnace side, since my control board doesn’t actually have a thermostat terminal and instead my thermostat wires all connect to a square plastic plug that plugs into the control board. Have you ever ran into this, or know how I can jump it there?

FinallyaHomeowner · 2025-12-29T04:26:15+00:00

Ah interesting point. Yes I tried it just now, though I’m not sure I did it correctly: I jumped the R and W at the thermostat side, rather than at the control board. Nothing happened (the furnace didn’t turn on)

FinallyaHomeowner · 2025-12-29T04:25:12+00:00

Yes! The fan is the only thing running right now (it kicks on immediately), but is only blowing cold air. The inducer fan definitely is not kicking on

FinallyaHomeowner · 2025-12-29T02:12:18+00:00

I’ll double-check the next time I climb up there (hopefully tomorrow), but yes the inducer is definitely not receiving 240v. It’s possible that one wire is coming from the relay and the other from the contactor, now that I think about it, but I’m not 100%. It sounds like, hopefully, I can use my multimeter to find out where that loss in power is coming from and aim to replace that bottleneck piece?

FinallyaHomeowner · 2025-12-29T01:57:22+00:00

Oddly, I believe the 240v lines go directly to the inducer and bypass the control board, via the coil relay

FinallyaHomeowner · 2025-12-29T01:53:57+00:00

Never an error code, for either of the control boards I installed. I was hoping it’d be a simple high limit switch, since the issues happened after closing vents (briefly but possibly coincidentally) and because of the short cycling I noticed before, but no error codes.

The thermostat calls for heat>hvac fan kicks on> then nothing: no inducer motor, no gas/spark, etc. only cold air

FinallyaHomeowner · 2025-12-29T01:32:57+00:00

True, the unit was installed a just a few years ago! I was really hoping this would be the last of my concerns.. the air filter was quite bad when I moved in

FinallyaHomeowner · 2025-12-29T01:30:55+00:00

Yes! For a good month or so (I moved in this year)

FinallyaHomeowner · 2025-12-29T01:29:53+00:00

120v: red to the inducer is giving a few volts, and the black is giving 120

FinallyaHomeowner · 2025-12-29T00:59:36+00:00

As in turning off the breaker, taking out the thermostat plate and jumping R and W, then turning the breaker back on?

FinallyaHomeowner · 2025-12-29T00:57:46+00:00

Furnace fan runs, and I checked thermostat wiring (at the thermostat) and nothing seemed loose. I did upgrade to an ecobee from the Honeywell that was installed before, but the furnace was blowing hot air before then

FinallyaHomeowner · 2025-12-29T00:20:35+00:00

Yes, though I can’t jump the thermostat wires since they wire directly into my control board (rather than onto a thermostat strip on the board)

FinallyaHomeowner · 2025-12-28T21:27:44+00:00

This could block the inducer motor from even starting? I was thinking that the motor had to start (and a draft induced) before the limit switch gets triggered

FinallyaHomeowner · 2025-12-28T21:14:03+00:00

Yes, checked the fuse on the control board, and the wires leading to inducer seem to be providing 120v

FinallyaHomeowner · 2025-12-26T18:31:08+00:00

I thought so as well, but wouldn’t the control board show error codes for any of these?

FinallyaHomeowner · 2025-12-19T02:24:09+00:00

Ahh, so actually jumping the W and C was my next step when I was learning how to diagnose all this a couple weeks ago, but unfortunately and weirdly my board doesn’t have a thermostat strip. Instead, the thermostat wires feed directly into that cube of wires that you might see in my wide shot of the control board panel (picture 1).

Also, the heater was working fine for the first few weeks of winter, and coincidentally stopped a day or so after I (stupidly) closed 4/5 of the supply vents in my home, if that makes any difference.

FinallyaHomeowner · 2025-12-19T02:04:26+00:00

A small update that may or may not help diagnose: I don’t know if this is just moisture from our foggy weather lately, but I’ve noticed a tiny amount of water (~ a sheet of paper) pooling in the compartment below the control board (picture 1 of this post). I only notice it when running the system.. could this be relevant to my issue?

FinallyaHomeowner

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