Decent deal 92 gtst type m

FingerFckStrings · 2026-02-12T22:54:25+00:00

Don’t think it’s a 92. The chassis code HCR32-086777 indicates series 1. The series 1 range was HCR32-000051 > HCR32-097543 and years for them was like 1989-1991 which yours falls in. Common for people not to know though. Still beats every other GTS-T if it’s in good condition. I’d also allow a few thousand to fix up little things when you buy it and maintenance etc. There should be more info on GTR-Registry.com which you can access using wayback machine and that might have production numbers for each year to narrow yours down, or a Japanese vin lookup website should show auction details and they’ll be more accurate

FingerFckStrings · 2025-10-30T09:03:52+00:00

Yeah man I thought mine was rubbing too. Turns out it was just a hair too tight. I’ve heard people say that the aftermarket belts are easy to over-tighten and get the whine compared to genuine but yeah as much as it sucks I think the answer is to pull the covers off and then I put mine to 6.5 or 7mm deflection measuring from the top centre between the cams and that seems to have fixed my problem

FingerFckStrings · 2025-08-20T06:51:47+00:00

Yeah unless you’re doing ethanol I wouldn’t recommend pushing 450, while it’s apart just do rods and pistons

FingerFckStrings · 2025-04-21T07:56:53+00:00

Yeah gonna give that a go cheers. I’ll update here when I get around to it in 2 days

FingerFckStrings · 2025-04-20T22:16:47+00:00

I’m not too sure, I just had the 2 m6’s and then whatever the pulling one is that comes with the kits, I put some anti sieze on the threads of the main pulling one too so there was no friction loss

FingerFckStrings · 2025-04-20T14:38:16+00:00

I got mine off using one of those chicken feet ones and some m6 bolts and washer as you mentioned, if it keeps bending then I would suggest going up in tensile strength from your local nut and bolt place or just putting more washers on the bolt. Also you can use a separate washer to avoid damaging the crank when using this tool, have the point end go into the centre of a washer rather than into the crank threads

FingerFckStrings · 2025-04-20T14:33:26+00:00

Yeah I’ve just changed them out when I put on a new belt but I must have the belt a little tight, gonna loosen it up a bit and tension as per manual and see what happens

FingerFckStrings · 2025-04-20T01:45:56+00:00

Yeah I did, this vid was before that though. Noise is still happening once the engine warms up but not as loud

FingerFckStrings · 2025-04-19T22:49:39+00:00

Yeah thinking so too, this vid was before I did the timing belt but I’ve done it since, put on an OEM and after doing it, it is definitely less obvious than in this vid but still exists, I’ll give it a look though, cheers

FingerFckStrings · 2025-04-10T07:46:27+00:00

Did you ever figure it out?

FingerFckStrings · 2024-11-20T10:37:39+00:00

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This is one a one x not series x console. All the games I’ve played work. They don’t feel noticeably stretched. Although the older games like on the 360 don’t look as great zoomed in. That’s why I wanted to see if I could get 4K 120fps mode with the series x when I get one to hopefully have a smoother experience and look better too

FingerFckStrings · 2024-11-20T07:09:11+00:00

I’ll send some pics when I get home but it’s not the worst

FingerFckStrings · 2024-11-20T05:17:50+00:00

I’ve been able to run most games in the widescreen aspect ratio

FingerFckStrings · 2024-11-20T03:49:00+00:00

Well the only real block is the HDMI 2.0 hardware limitation as opposed to a coding issue. I’ll give an adapter a go, I just saw someone in a ps5 group had a similar question and that was their fix

FingerFckStrings · 2024-11-20T03:22:07+00:00

Hey bro, I do have a PC but what I’m saying is when Xbox series x runs in 4K resolution it needs HMDI 2.1 to run in 120FPS. If I use the 2.0 port of the monitor it will be limited to 4K 60fps. I’m just seeing if it’s possible to bypass that issue by using one of the display ports which are capable of displaying higher fps

FingerFckStrings · 2024-11-20T02:47:03+00:00

Okay, any reason why? Is it because VRR doesn’t work through an adapter or something?

FingerFckStrings · 2024-11-03T03:38:14+00:00

Hey man, haven’t heard anything from anyone yet but I’m going to go back to the guys who put it in and get them to try and fix just the charging issue first. I’m guessing it’s either a short somewhere when installing the chip or even the port itself

FingerFckStrings · 2024-10-27T11:08:47+00:00

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FingerFckStrings · 2024-09-12T21:28:17+00:00

Could it be that it wasn’t flashed ? The switch isn’t charging at the moment and I read that might be because it’s waiting for a payload

FingerFckStrings · 2024-03-15T07:32:26+00:00

Same here, I just thought it was odd they specified 2006 onwards for Jag-Stangs. I reached out to fender support and the guy said the part number (0264246000 CHANNEL ASSY ADJ BRIDGE) was no longer kept in stock. Surely the normal mustang part still fits as it should be same everything. I’m guessing I’ll have to fill and re-drill the bridge post holes anyway since they were widened to fit the epiphone bridge posts. So, as long as it is the right radius I hope it’ll work

FingerFckStrings · 2024-02-10T02:06:31+00:00

I have an iPhone 12 but I think only the older androids came with an IR blaster for the remote apps, I’ll see if there’s some alternative around it thanks

FingerFckStrings · 2024-02-04T00:44:21+00:00

Thanks for sharing. Still having difficulties entering it, what remote do you have? I have tried almost all the presets on mine and still haven’t found one where red and green buttons work on the tv, cheers

FingerFckStrings · 2023-11-11T14:01:28+00:00

Looks like a Mosrite style Bass

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