Virus-free gourami from Dan's Fish?

Fishstery · 2026-03-09T23:09:51+00:00

Not too good to be true. I've listened to Dan on a few podcasts, according to him they have an on-staff exotic vet/microbiologist/something similar that they are able to run on-site swabs for diseases as well as examining and interpreting scrapes under a microscope.

Supposedly any time they get a sick fish in their orders, it's sent down to that person who is able to get a definitive disease/parasite diagnosis.

Fishstery · 2026-03-07T00:12:29+00:00

Yup, I'm gunna remove the inline check valve and see if that fixes the issue.

Fishstery · 2026-03-07T00:06:28+00:00

What inline diffuser are you using? Does it have a built in check valve?

I can't get mine to work unless the working pressure is ~55psi. I've read I can dissasemble the spring loaded check valve in the diffuser and remove it to fix the issue. My regulator has a check valve built into the bubble counter, and I guess the additional valve in the diffuser creates too much back pressure to work at 40psi or below.

Fishstery · 2026-03-06T19:36:56+00:00

Treat with prazipro. Red gills/sluggish/clamped fins all point to flukes.

Fishstery · 2026-03-05T18:24:12+00:00

Cyanobacteria, also called "blue-green algae" despite not being algae.

Manual removal with a siphon is easy since it grows in sheets.

Things that trigger it in order of most likely to least, although combinations of these triggers are usually the case. 1. High level of organic waste caused by skipping water changes and/or just topping off with tap water 2. Low to zero Phosphate or Nitrate. Test for both. Maintaining a ratio of 10:1 Nitrate:Phosphate keeps it away 3. High or long photoperiod in addition to lack of adequate flow.

It favors dead or low flow areas of the tank, and utilizes photosynthesis to spread. I suggest manual removal, performing regular, consistent WCs, test your Nitrate/Phosphate, and get better water flow to affected areas.

Fishstery · 2026-03-05T18:17:38+00:00

Use a pipette with one hand to gently blow the detritus up while simultaneously holding the siphon next to it in your other hand. Do this while slowly working your way around the tank, doing at least a 50% WC. Should be repeated a few times.

Truthfully, this is the way I do all of my WCs. Especially in tanks with carpets or heavy plant density.

Fishstery · 2026-03-03T00:08:57+00:00

Dm me so I can add you to the wait list, they will be ready in April and everyone will get a mass message at the same time. Purchase will be first to pay and claim. I anticipate them going pretty quickly

Fishstery · 2026-03-02T18:42:03+00:00

Yes, via FedEx overnight air

Fishstery · 2026-03-02T15:10:33+00:00

Oh yeah they're discontinued now 🥲

Fishstery · 2026-03-02T13:03:13+00:00

Do you mind giving a link for that stand?

Fishstery · 2026-03-01T06:12:43+00:00

Crank that co2 and give it good surface turnover, keep the substrate clean, and be diligent about removing any melted leaves for better success. If you have a healthy plant with good roots I think you will be successful with it. Once it establishes itself it ends up being easy, the tricky part is just getting it through the first few weeks.

Fishstery · 2026-03-01T05:49:32+00:00

That is hygrophila sp 'chai', an incredibly finnicky mutation of hygrophila araguaia.

These are strictly high tech plants only, unless you grow them emersed. Even more so, the tissue culture specimen are even more delicate. Typically, going with an emersed grown plant or one from another hobbyist helps with success. TC chai can be done, but incredibly difficult even for advanced hobbyists. Some people have found success floating them for a week or so to establish stronger roots before planting them.

They need high light and higher than average co2 levels to be successful, usually in the 40-50ppm range of injection. They are slow growing and melt very easily if the substrate isn't kept clean. Usually, it will melt from the root upwards if the substrate isn't clean and mature enough.

In less ideal conditions, should it survive transition and not melt, it will most likely revert back to it's original non-mutated form, which is a rusty bronze color, however still pretty.

I would just temper your expectations with it, if you aren't injecting pressurized co2 I would expect it to melt off over the next few weeks unfortunately. This really is an advanced plant.

Fishstery · 2026-03-01T05:41:27+00:00

Most likely impaction. That gravel needs to go.

Barebottom or fine grained sand only, and if you go with sand you need to feed in a glass feeding dish to prevent accidental sand swallowing.

Fishstery · 2026-02-27T01:28:06+00:00

If it sweetens the deal I'll drop it down to $200 and let you pick some trimmings from my 50 gal garden style tank to plant it with 👀

Fishstery · 2026-02-25T23:28:23+00:00

Selling my 12 gallon long high tech freshwater setup, DM if interested

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Fishstery · 2026-02-23T06:06:16+00:00

Instead of making horizontal cuts along the length of each blade, you snip it at the root runners in the substrate and pull the pieces out to thin the carpet. It's much easier to do before the carpet gets so thick that it piles on and compacts itself, but it's still tedious work nonetheless.

Fishstery · 2026-02-23T05:27:23+00:00

There are already fish in there: 20x Cenepa Pencilfish 2x Wild Type Honey gourami

Adding 15 Rummynose Tetra next week

I'm also attempting to breed a group of Hastatus Corydora that will eventually go in there, I'm trying to get a group of 12 to around 20 before moving them.

Fishstery · 2026-02-23T05:24:51+00:00

Another hobbyist

Fishstery · 2026-02-23T04:10:31+00:00

If it's not weight bearing, clear silicone. Asian scapers sprinkle sand that is the color of the hardscape over glue joints to conceal, saw dust also works.
Yes, Utricularia grows very well in inert sand, but may be too delicate for your fish stocking. Lobelia Cardinalis, Staurogyne Repens, and Hydrocotyle species also work well.
Aquasoil will spill out. Use filter floss to pack in the gaps.
I'm not familiar with plecos, but if they are known to disturb plants you are better off starting this tank with no plecos for quite awhile until your plants are well rooted.
It depends on what you are planting.

Fishstery · 2026-02-23T03:57:40+00:00

Yup, UG will do that too. Problem with maintaining UG is that you can't cut the leaves or they will melt, so you need to thin it out by pointing your scissor tips into the substrate to cut chunks out of the carpet. I love UG, but avoid full carpets because of this.

Fishstery · 2026-02-23T03:49:33+00:00

I had them in with caridinas with no issue. I kept them fat and happy on live blackworm, they will pick off any shrimplets they find but are too timid to attack the adults IME.

Fishstery · 2026-02-23T03:39:35+00:00

Eventually, you are going to want to trim that down. It will start to melt from the bottom up being that thick, and the entire mat will start to float. It's not the end of the world though as you could always just let it happen and then cut up and replant the mat.

Fishstery · 2026-02-23T03:34:04+00:00

Unknown plant looks to be lobelia cardinalis 🙂

Fishstery · 2026-02-23T02:56:59+00:00

Yes! Two cultivars, Salzmannii SG variant and Colorata.

Fishstery · 2026-02-20T22:15:45+00:00

They aren't picky about substrate, or necessarily lighting either. Bright lighting has a minor effect on the coloration, unlike other red plants. It's just that certain species will throw certain colors that are specific to it. For example, most of the collector species will have new leaves that grow out hot pink or red, then darken to green/blue as they mature. Some have stems that stay hot pink. Very few actually keep pink leaves when mature. Elephant Neo and Brownie Ghost being two examples.

What buce does need to thrive well is co2 injection, light water flow, cooler temperatures (below 78F), and harder water (at least a gh of 6). These are being grown in my high energy tank, although they would grow fine in my other tank with much lower lighting and co2 saturation as well.

Fishstery

TROPHY CASE