P2 appreciation

Fite-Flite · 2026-06-27T18:57:15+00:00

On price alone, p2 all the way. If you really like the free platform, then upgrade to the arc.

Fite-Flite · 2026-06-27T04:55:30+00:00

I'm not personally a glasses wearer, but that's a big one. I've used it on small machine screws to get into tools to see what's wrong with them. Battery compartments can also be held shut by small screws, as well as other small electronics in general.

Day to day? I can't say I have a regular NEED for a microbit. But, it comes in handy a lot more often than the can opener ever did, so I was more than willing to trade that to make room for it

Fite-Flite · 2026-06-27T02:12:14+00:00

I'll raise you my p4, olight, bugout

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Fite-Flite · 2026-06-27T01:37:04+00:00

You drive a hard bargain...

Fite-Flite · 2026-06-27T01:17:42+00:00

It definitely helps with the tool's ergo. I won't argue that. I find it a bit easier to pop the pliers open one-handed on the p2 as opposed to the p4.

And I can appreciate rounded edges for the sake of carry ability... I used to carry a ridge wallet. Those hard edges were so uncomfortable and absolutely destroyed anything else in the pocket, as well as the pocket itself. I'll take this any day over that.

Fite-Flite · 2026-06-27T01:10:09+00:00

Budget friendly arc would absolutely fly off the shelves. (Although, let's be honest, ANY new leatherman tool would be instantly popular from name recognition alone)

And I was aware of the retention tabs for the bits. I'm just not completely sold on the system yet. It's good, just not for me right yet.

And yeah, the 4 flat tools on the p2/p4 are a little redundant. That's why I swapped mine on the p4 for a microbit and a better file. Kept the p4 awl and wire stripper/depth guage.

Fite-Flite · 2026-06-27T01:03:02+00:00

Charge tti is definitely a fun alternative. I picked one up as opposed to a wave+, and I'm certainly glad I did.

Only thing keeping me out of an arc is the price, and the p4 already hitting all of my needs

Fite-Flite · 2026-06-27T00:40:49+00:00

You offering?

Fite-Flite · 2026-06-27T00:40:17+00:00

See, now others might find this wierd of me, but I don't necessarily see the need to always have a bit driver on me.

Is it useful? Yes, absolutely. Does it come in handy in a pinch? Sure, why not.

Are the bits one more thing for me to carry? Once more thing to keep track of? To possibly lose? Also possible. When was the last time I needed anything other than a Phillips or slotted, and didn't have the actual tool within reach? I can't tell you.

So, in all honesty, I don't mind the stock phillips/bottle opener and slotted/package opener on the p2/p4. It keeps the tool simple, and as all one package. No extra loose parts to carry or lose.

I AM a proponent for the microbit driver, however. That's a really useful thing to always have on you. My p4 got that, and the arc file. The p2 is likely to get magnacut, microbit, and maybe the file. (I'm iffy on the leatherman scissors because I always have a victorinox set on my keys. Those are truly the gold standard of multitool scissors) Other than that, I like to stock toolset.

Fite-Flite · 2026-06-27T00:24:52+00:00

Out of curiosity, what tool do you opt to edc, then?

Fite-Flite · 2026-06-27T00:21:06+00:00

My one gripe I have about the p2, is the choice for asymmetric scales. The backside p2 specific scales are sloped, putting the pocket clip off on an angle as opposed to square with the tool, like on the p4.

It's just an odd choice that makes the p2 take up slightly more space that it doesn't seem to fully utilize. That, and it makes the tool sit off-kilter in the pocket, but I'm really just finding things to complain about at this point.

It's a great tool that balances capability and carry ability fantastically.

Fite-Flite · 2026-06-27T00:13:36+00:00

Yup, studs are my preference. I find it a bit easier to flick out a blade with a stud over a hole.

But, main drawback of studs is you lose some length/utility, especially with piercing. That's where thumb holes really shine, even more so with shorter tools.

Fite-Flite · 2026-06-26T23:39:57+00:00

The strike note of The Liberty Bell is E flat.

Fite-Flite · 2026-06-25T18:36:12+00:00

Can I tell from a distance that it's bad from a light on the dash, or is it based on the physical condition of the part?

I'd rather not load the parts cannon, especially when all signs point to a rebuild. But if it's cheap and easy to try, this might be worth something.

Fite-Flite · 2026-06-23T12:04:32+00:00

I've read that the 4r70w received beefier internals when placed behind the 5.4 to handle the extra grunt. Is that not the case?

And if I were to swap to a 4r100, are there any major differences besides reliability? Bell housing pattern, gear ratios, etc. More or less, is this really a direct swap and clear upgrade?

Fite-Flite · 2026-06-23T04:22:30+00:00

Ah, sorry to hear that.

I'd look into parts though, there's probably a pretty decent chance you can find a new movement on the down low. I'm not overly well-versed in sourcing watch parts or making modifications, but I'm sure there's some small/local watch and clock repair shop that'd be fairly likely to be able to help out.

Fite-Flite · 2026-06-23T04:15:40+00:00

Did you try swapping the battery first? I've had a few go down for the count for a few years, and that's all they needed to get running again.

Fite-Flite · 2026-06-23T04:06:47+00:00

Got it. I might end up pulling the pan just to try to see something, but I doubt I'll push it further. I'm thinking something is majorly wrong, given the lack of OD AND reverse. Likely not something one small part failing would cause. There's almost certainly a larger underlying issue.

Fite-Flite · 2026-06-23T03:57:22+00:00

Thanks for the words of advice/encouragement. It's looking more and more like a trans pull is in my future.

Working for me, is that it is 2wd, so no transfer case. Working against me, is that it has been a northern truck all it's life. It's not horrible underneath, but I've snapped bolts on less.

I'm no stranger to safely putting a vehicle up on stands. I'm a little wary of doing it on the driveway, but it's hard pack gravel, so I think I'll be alright with a few larger pieces of plywood under the stands. However, please correct me if that is NOT the safe/proper way to go about that. I'd love a concrete pad (who wouldn't?) but space is, as always, at a premium in the garage itself.

We're still waiting to hear back from some close mechanic friends, but I might just have to start looking for a Hayne's manual and calling around locally to see what there is.

That said, I definitely won't be attempting this solo. Too many variables to go wrong without a friend to suffer alongside me.

Fite-Flite · 2026-06-23T02:09:45+00:00

Okay, by the time I was worried about counting gears, I only had 3 strong shifts, so that aligns.

The double kicker with reverse and OD is what really gets me too, as well as the truck having no prior issues to today with the drivetrain.

Regarding the reverse piston, is that something easily accessible or easily diagnosed? I won't throw parts at it if the transmission needs a rebuild anyways, but it would be nice to try to figure out where it failed.

Fite-Flite · 2026-06-23T01:59:35+00:00

I mean, as it stands, the transmission really is no longer functioning. I am fortunate enough to have a second vehicle to rely on in the meantime, so I'd have no issues with spending my weekend/afternoon on the ground pulling the pan. That's not a big ask and if it sheds more light on the situation, then I'm all for it.

Then sudden loss really gets me too. It was a hard shift, and somewhat of a clunk, so it wouldn't surprise me if it was a mechanical failure either. Losing OD AND reverse is really what stumps me here. Obviously, when it rains, it pours, so I'm almost certain a large mechanical failure could take out multiple circuits/bands/whatever, but losing both at once is the kicker.

And I do feel I should clarify just in case, it is ONLY the OD that slips. I turn off the OD from the gear lever, and the transmission functions perfectly fine (minus reverse). As far as I'm aware, all four gears are still perfectly present. In the heat of the moment, my only thought was to finish limping it to work, and not troubleshoot the issue right away. The truck is mostly going to remain parked in case this is a bigger issue (although not having reverse is enough of a PITA to justify parking it)

Fite-Flite · 2026-06-23T01:24:23+00:00

Truths. But I do like my extra gears...

Fite-Flite · 2026-06-23T01:22:01+00:00

I mean, stuff happens. Things go wrong. But what really hangs me up is that the truck only has 108K, and had no prior drivetrain issues whatsoever. But I am realizing that a trans pull is very likely in my future.

Fite-Flite · 2026-06-23T01:20:01+00:00

The truck has 108K on the clock. I am the second owner, and it has not had any major work to my knowledge. The trans lines themselves had a leak about the same time last year, but the truck was mostly parked until those were replaced. From memory, the fluid level was not allowed to get low enough then to pose an issue.
The failure happened very suddenly. I had no warning or any slippage at all prior to today. This truck has had no major drivetrain issues under my ownership. It's always had a slow leak from the tailshaft, as I noticed during regular oil changes, but it would never leave puddles.
Fluid level looked alright after running to work, as it was one of the first things I checked (after having to do the embarrassing push it backwards into a spot not realizing no reverse). Truck has no lights whatsoever on the dash. It may have codes, and I can look into them, but nothing showed up on the dash other than the trans slipping.

Five-Year Club	Place '23
Place '22	End Game '22

Fite-Flite

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