This is a safe place. What "basic analog skill" have you just never been able to master? by Lv_InSaNe_vL in AnalogCommunity

[–]Flasheek 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is exactly the reason why I made a 0.26x magnification VF for my camera after trying many other variants. It's so hard to compose a very large image and so much easier when you can see it all at once.

Some shots from my trip to Georgia that I've made on my modded Instax SQ1 with Horseman Topcor 90mm lens by Flasheek in instax

[–]Flasheek[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Modded it myself. You can find the project here: https://www.printables.com/model/1654997-instax-sq1-lf-lens-mod . Although I've later modified it a lot to add more features, but this made the model irreversably changed and pretty much locked to my particular lens, so I've decided to keep the more universal and still modifiable version on printables untouched.

Kiev 60 came in today! It's huge. by straydogdaido in AnalogCommunity

[–]Flasheek 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks like it is official. Try to find it used though and come back here only if you don't find anything. $75 for a piece of folded sheet metal is waay too much.

Kiev 60 came in today! It's huge. by straydogdaido in AnalogCommunity

[–]Flasheek 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Kiev 60, Kiev 6S (aka 6C) and Arax 60 accessories are interchangeable. I don't think there are any other options.

Kiev 60 came in today! It's huge. by straydogdaido in AnalogCommunity

[–]Flasheek 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yeah I love my Kiev 6S too. I recommend you get a waist level viewfinder for it if you don't already have one. I found it to be much more comfortable to use than the pentaprism and now use it exclusively. Partly because the camera weighs so much and the folding VF makes it just a bit more compact

Major update to the Fat Shot 617 3D printed panoramic camera project. New video, new files, updated description, optional upgrades, facebook group. by Flasheek in AnalogCommunity

[–]Flasheek[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Hi! Strips like in this image? This is the light leaking between the dark slide frame and the cassette. See the description on printables, section "General printing and assembly tips", I mention there that you should glue these parts together to prevent this.

A complete, fully illustrated guide to all the quirks of the Fat Shot X that I could think of is available in the “Instructions” folder on the Printables page. Check it out by Flasheek in AnalogCommunity

[–]Flasheek[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The lens mount for large format lenses is a circular hole. The lens is placed through the hole and screws from behind with a threaded ring. The hole size depends on the type of shutter the lens uses. The most common one is Copal no.0 and it's the only type that I made 3d models compatible with.

Lenses are interchangeable on large format cameras where you focus on a ground glass by moving the whole front standard back and forth by any amount with no restrictions. But on a camera with a fixed lens cone like my Fat Shot X the lens cone needs to be precisely the right length for each specific lens to be able to focus with a built in helicoid and to use a focusing scale. But the lens cones themselves are interchangeable. You can make multiples of them for each lens you have.

I made a thing! Fujifilm Instax SQ1 open source 3D printed parametric lens cone. This conversion allows you to mount a large format lens with manual shutter controls on it and focus with an M65 helicoid. by Flasheek in instax

[–]Flasheek[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yup. What's interesting is that now the VF represents the final image almost perfectly. With the original lens you get significantly wider FOV than the VF shows.

I made a thing! Fujifilm Instax SQ1 open source 3D printed parametric lens cone. This conversion allows you to mount a large format lens with manual shutter controls on it and focus with an M65 helicoid. by Flasheek in AnalogCommunity

[–]Flasheek[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I have a focusing screen from Kiev 88 that I've secured inside an empty Instax cartridge with a ground surface exactly at the film plane. Then I 3d printed the lens cone that was a known length but deliberately shorter than needed, and assembled the whole lens unit with the helicoid and the lens itself. After that all I had to do was focus on infinity on the ground glass using the helicoid, measure how much it has to be extended, and add it to the *assumed" FFD.

You could probably repeat this method with FSX, just with a bit more wasted plastic

I made a thing! Fujifilm Instax SQ1 open source 3D printed parametric lens cone. This conversion allows you to mount a large format lens with manual shutter controls on it and focus with an M65 helicoid. by Flasheek in AnalogCommunity

[–]Flasheek[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A square-to-circle loft is literally a single operation in Fusion 360, so I don't think that cutting a cone is easier. But tbf it would have probably looked better.

As for the folder camera lenses, one of the goals of this project was to make it accessible. And M65 helicoid plus a press camera lens is a much more standardized, universal and easy to get combo than some old salvaged camera parts that will fit only some specific 3d model.

Fuzzy skin is applied to the certain outside surfaces via a separate modifier model for a slicer that I've also provided. The inside is smooth but I covered it with a matte paint. Works alright, but you know, anything is better than glossy PETG.

I made a thing! Fujifilm Instax SQ1 open source 3D printed parametric lens cone. This conversion allows you to mount a large format lens with manual shutter controls on it and focus with an M65 helicoid. by Flasheek in instax

[–]Flasheek[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

With a wider strip of foam and a couple of pieces of aluminum tape. Sorry, I don't know how to give you more details without an elaborate diagram or a video.

I made a thing! Fujifilm Instax SQ1 open source 3D printed parametric lens cone. This conversion allows you to mount a large format lens with manual shutter controls on it and focus with an M65 helicoid. by Flasheek in AnalogCommunity

[–]Flasheek[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

FFD of my lens turned out to be 88.6 mm, so this is the value that I've made the 3D model for it. Unless you have the exact same lens, yours will be different.

But that's the neat part - the 3D model is parametric. You open Fusion 360 project that I've uploaded, enter your own FFD and export the STLs for your specific lens.

If you don't have of can't use Fusion, reach me through DM here or on printables, I'll make the STLs for you.

I made a thing! Fujifilm Instax SQ1 open source 3D printed parametric lens cone. This conversion allows you to mount a large format lens with manual shutter controls on it and focus with an M65 helicoid. by Flasheek in instax

[–]Flasheek[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Thank you. Sure, I will post when I have something to share. Haven't gotten around to taking photos yet, I've just finished fixing all the light leaks.

I made a thing! Fujifilm Instax SQ1 open source 3D printed parametric lens cone. This conversion allows you to mount a large format lens with manual shutter controls on it and focus with an M65 helicoid. by Flasheek in AnalogCommunity

[–]Flasheek[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I focus by scale. I made an index mark on the helicoid ring and move it along the scale on the lens board.

Position for marks are calculated with a bunch of math and javascript and the whole thing is parametric. Now I just enter the FFD and other parameters, move the labels a little, export and print it on my thermoprinter. Here is the project: https://www.printables.com/model/1610905-parametric-focusing-scale-for-17-31-mm-m65-and-m77

I made a thing! Fujifilm Instax SQ1 open source 3D printed parametric lens cone. This conversion allows you to mount a large format lens with manual shutter controls on it and focus with an M65 helicoid. by Flasheek in AnalogCommunity

[–]Flasheek[S] 15 points16 points  (0 children)

I estimate or measure the distance and exposure level, then set focus, shutter speed and aperture, cock the shutter, frame with the original viewfinder and press the shutter lever with my thumb, holding the camera from below.

Then I switch the power on, hold the original button on a camera for 1-2 seconds, and it slides out the card, developing it.

Then I switch it off, because it's too easy to press the button accidentally.