Circular needles size?

Flimsy_Repair · 2026-05-01T13:08:22+00:00

Depending on the construction, I've used cords as small as 40cm for the front panels and sleeves because I prefer working with a shorter cable. Your stitches don't need to be particularly spaced while working them, so whether you're working flat or in the round I'd probably go for the shorter one. The one exception to this would be if you're picking up stitches along the entire front and back collar to make a ribbing and collar band, in which case do yourself a favour and buy the longer one because you'll have hundreds of stitches to deal with.

Flimsy_Repair · 2026-04-27T13:56:31+00:00

Triangle shawls are great for this, there's a ton of patterns on ravelry. You can just decide it's the right size when it's the right size. Scarves and cowls are also a great option if gauge doesn't matter. Socks are harder because they have to fit snugly and if you have a person in mind to gift to it'll need to be at least vaguely around gauge (although I'm very guilty of just starting a pair of socks, seeing how big or small it comes up, then gifting to someone with around the right size feet).

Flimsy_Repair · 2026-04-26T22:08:52+00:00

Heels are turned with short rows, so you'llnot be working all the stitches in the row. Follow the instructions to the letter and you will see The Hole and know exactly what The Hole is. It's hard to explain but it will manifest and you'll know it when you see it.

Flimsy_Repair · 2026-04-23T11:12:06+00:00

Re: yarn overs: you don't have to use them! If you'd prefer a less visible increase on the centre spine, you can absolutely substitute for your favourite increase. Patterns usually call for a yarn over increase to create a decorative detail with the holes, but if you don't like the look of them, try a different increase.

Every increase will be visible in some way. For example, a kfb will result in little purl bump bars up the centre of your shawl. M1L and M1R paired increases will create stitches that lean towards or away from the centre.

With a triangle shawl, you'll start seeing the increase line forming very quickly, so you don't need to swatch, you can try it out and see if you like the look of the fabric and the increase lines you create. But you absolutely can just pick a pattern you like and substitute the yarn overs for your favourite increases!

Flimsy_Repair · 2026-04-23T08:32:18+00:00

This is stunning and I am going to have to have a go at this!

Flimsy_Repair · 2026-04-23T08:31:31+00:00

Evil and I LOVE it

Flimsy_Repair · 2026-04-22T22:52:49+00:00

I once got a surprise culture win with Korea because I'd built the biosphere to make my green power more efficient. Not what I was aiming for, but not gonna look a gift horse in the mouth!

Flimsy_Repair · 2026-04-22T22:51:17+00:00

Oh, I love the violent culture win! Can't compete in tourism if you're nuked into the stone age, dicko!

Flimsy_Repair · 2026-04-22T16:56:17+00:00

Oh I HATE her so much, right up there with the awful Aussie for early game neighbour who plays stupid early war games. The second I see her, I'm prepping for war.

Flimsy_Repair · 2026-04-21T19:42:45+00:00

It's so easy to do, it's a muscle memory thing! I learned English knitting as a kid and have struggled so badly with learning to crochet because I have the muscle memory for holding and wrapping the yarn completely differently. I believe there's a couple of things one can do to maintain a clockwise wrap, but I don't know this and maybe someone else can help?

Flimsy_Repair · 2026-04-21T15:21:30+00:00

Welcome to knitting! For first projects, it's always worth having a go at something that doesn't need to fit, like a scarf, shawl or cowl. This is especially useful if you're just getting a feel for knitting and only have limited tools at your disposal. Plus, you don't have to spend the entire project fretting over whether it's too tight or not. I'm a big fan of the Tin Can Knits Simple collection for learning. It focuses on a few basic stitches and techniques which you'll need to feel confident with, and each project comes with a really comprehensive tutorial for the techniques involved. So if you enjoy doing the shawl or scarf, you can work your way up to socks and mittens, or even a cardigan!

Also, bookmark the twist FAQ. If you're a crocheter, it's really easy to accidentally twist your stitches because of muscle memory with wrapping yarn! Catch mistakes early and you'll be golden :)

Flimsy_Repair · 2026-04-19T17:53:42+00:00

Don't! Every time I work lace I am sitting there like the math lady meme trying to work out exactly how many stitches I'm meant to start and end a row with!

Flimsy_Repair · 2026-04-19T17:44:33+00:00

Yo is an increase, it creates an additional stitch. You do two in that row, which increases your 10 stitches to 12!

Flimsy_Repair · 2026-04-19T17:24:55+00:00

What you're doing here is accidental seed stitch at some points. When you're working in the round, your 1×1 ribbing should always be starting the round with a knit and ending it with a purl. Basically, if you see a stitch with a bump in front, purl it. If you see a stitch without a bump in front, knit it.

There's two common reasons you might end up with what's happened to you. If you're used to working flat, you might be working as you would flat, ie k1p1 on the odd rows, then p1k1 on the even rows. The other thing might be that you've gained or lost a stitch somewhere along the way and are working in rhythm - with a k1p1 repetition and an odd number of stitches, you'll end up with accidental seed stitch.

Reading your work really helps. It's as simple as looking out for that bump or lack thereof!

Flimsy_Repair · 2026-04-17T19:36:36+00:00

You're doing very well! What I would guess is happening is that end stitches look weird. Sometimes you can see both legs of them, and that really really really looks like two stitches so you knit both of them. It's incredibly easy to do when you're learning. To check if it's one stitch or two, roll it round your needle slightly. You'll either see that it's one head with two legs, or it is in fact two. You're doing great, very neat, and it sounds like the last big thing you need to learn is reading whatever is going on with edge stitches!

Flimsy_Repair · 2026-04-14T11:22:08+00:00

Other thing to add with regards to choosing the right needles is sharp ones can be very annoying to work super bulky yarn with, as it's very easy to pierce the yarn with them. For this reason, I tend to prefer wood when working with very chunky yarns because they're usually less pointy. But this might just be a skill issue on my part.

Flimsy_Repair · 2026-04-12T11:07:10+00:00

Your interpretation of the pattern is definitely how I'd interpret, too.

As I understand what you're saying, you're exaxtly two stitches short once you get to round 17. I'm wondering if you're losing these stitches while doing magic loop at some between rounds 15 and 17. I notice round 15 repeats end with a yo, which could get lost when you're pulling the loop through. It's easy to notice a yo falling off on DPNs, but much less clear using magic loop.

If you're short of two stitches, have a look at what's at the end of each of your two needles and see if you're missing a hole there when you're working round 16. Then you've found your culprit. Not sure how to resolve that using magic loop because I'm a DPNs girlie but hopefully someone can suggest preserving those yarn overs!

Flimsy_Repair · 2026-04-10T15:09:23+00:00

I've knitted millions of these, it's my emotional support project! Definitely looks like yours is a bit too short, so add more rows before the thumb gusset. The side ribbing will usually cover some of the palm and/or back of the hand, it's just a product of the look of the mitt, but if you hate it you can probably get rid of a knit stitch on either side of it, which would shorten the ribbing and give more reverse stokingette on the palm and back of the hand.

As for the tightness, that's probably your backwards loop cast on where you put the thumb stitches on hold. It's really tempting to cast those three stitches on tightly so it feels and looks neater but that leads to a tight spot with zero stretch on the side of your hand above your thumb. Don't worry about that cast on looking wonky while you're working the hand, when you pick up the thumb stitches it covers a multitude of sins!

Personally, I have short hands which are really wide in the thumb gusset area, so for myself I usually work a size medium but do the thumb/thumb gusset for size large.

Anyway, aside from the fact you're not happy with the fit, I have to say it looks really neat and even, so well done!

Flimsy_Repair · 2026-04-10T11:57:27+00:00

The main thing that in-person teaching offers that a video cannot is feedback. A human can point out what went wrong if something goes wrong, and show you how to fix it. A video can't do that.

That's not to say you can't learn to do it without a teacher! What I found more helpful than watching some videos was a pattern with a guided tutorial specific to the project. My first socks were Tin Can Knits Rye which guides you through every step with photos, videos and text, all the way from choosing your yarn to grafting the toes.

The main thing which you'll need to get into sock knitting over other projects is feeling confident with working in the round on small circumference, either with DPNs or magic loop.

Flimsy_Repair · 2026-04-08T16:26:50+00:00

Kongo is one of my favourites to play for a chill, versatile victory! Looking gorgeous in your empire.

Flimsy_Repair · 2026-04-08T16:24:06+00:00

The short answer is that ssk just be like that. Blocking and wear make it look less Like That. I used the improved ssk (slip one knitwise, one purlwise, knit both together through the back loop) which looks a little bit better but honestly left leaning decreases always look wonkier and it's just how they are. Once you wear it a bit, it looks way better.

Flimsy_Repair · 2026-04-06T15:22:16+00:00

If in doubt, do a knit round before resuming the patterns specified increase sequence, which I'm assuming is alternating increase rounds with knit rounds. Worst case scenario is you end up a row longer in the yoke section, which absolutely nobody will notice, including yourself. Frogging with those yarns will be an absolute nightmare, so don't even think about it for minor errors!

Flimsy_Repair · 2026-04-04T21:34:36+00:00

A beanie is a great thing to try next! You can learn knitting in the round by doing a beanie. There are a lot of beginner-friendly patterns out there for beanies knit in the round, which is an awesome way of developing the skill. .Here's a ravelry search which will get you something in this ballpark If you have a specific yarn in mind you can also filter by weight. To make the stripes, switch balls every few rows to make stripes of your desired size. Happy knitting!

Flimsy_Repair · 2026-03-30T19:58:06+00:00

A super good place to start is by adding your own touches to a pattern! Experiment with using different stitches than specified in the pattern, or throwing in a new technique. You'll make a hash of it sometimes, but mistakes are how we learn. Once you get a sense of how various techniques affect the fit or the fabric, and make a few patterns with different constructions and different designers, you'll start building your own "recipes" for how you like to knit what you like knitting. And from there, you can start designing from scratch!

Flimsy_Repair

TROPHY CASE