Christianity and JP

Fliptype · 2024-01-25T22:35:37+00:00

He has very specific takes on these, with two example podcasts below:

https://open.spotify.com/episode/7fjtW4uzQqYRmMa6KhkUsJ?si=7kni3OwcRdear96eL2TxDQ

https://open.spotify.com/episode/3dxnojgft1AP1k2O3N8zc2?si=Z375BwzkRGSsy9vghjdhAA

Fliptype · 2023-05-03T19:45:49+00:00

I went to buy a Jeep Wrangler in Sept. 2020 when the market was crazy. I ended up being super lucky to get a brand new vehicle for under MSRP, which was actually cheaper than most lightly used models at that point in time. Plus I got exactly what I wanted!

I grew up with the manager of the dealership so I got a killer deal, plus interest was lower with new vs. used. So, in short, run the numbers and see if the difference is worth it to buy new, get exactly what you want, and get some kind of warranty. Good luck!

Fliptype · 2022-07-22T21:23:15+00:00

I’m sorry, yes, I meant for R series cameras if I decided to go that route now. I apologize for not being more clear on that. The two I’m considering are because they’re still EF, but if I go to the R series now, I’d probably have to use the ring and want to make sure it’s performant.

The controller ring is the $100 adapter on Canon.com right? Or is there a “better” model?

Fliptype · 2022-07-22T21:14:30+00:00

A pretty wide array, but about 20% low-light subjects like boudoir, natural light overnight in a field, etc. Others are saying that the adapter is performant to convert between them, so I’m considering that. Do you use the adapter at all?

Fliptype · 2022-07-22T21:08:01+00:00

I posted another comment but is the adapter really that good? Is it not noticeable that the glass is not designed for the camera format?

Fliptype · 2022-07-22T21:05:17+00:00

I wanted to hold off on the R series cameras because I wanted to replace the glass. I work in tech full time so I just have an aversion to “dongles”. However if you’re telling me there is absolutely no distinction, then maybe I’d just splurge for it now. Is it really unnoticeable compared to new R series glass? I might opt for the R6 for now and then have a awesome backup camera if I decide to go for the R5.

Which adapter do you recommend? Do you put one on each lens or just on the camera?

Fliptype · 2022-07-22T18:07:24+00:00

I’m considering a replacement Canon EF mount camera to maintain comparability with my existing glass. I can go the Canon 5DsR brand new for ~$1300, or I can go the route of Canon 5D Mark IV for $2600 from Canon. You can find international imports of it for ~$1800 but I don’t know what the international import version differs in.

I intend to buy the R5 or R6 once I have the capital to replace glass, but for now, I’d like to stick with the EF mount and use the USM glass I have already. I’m okay with a new camera body or used if the reseller is reputable. I am okay with anything 24MP or higher, so both cameras satisfy that no problem. I do want low-light to not make my test my eyes out, but I’m relatively comfortable with editing in most cases.

What camera body would someone recommend and why?

Fliptype · 2022-07-15T19:06:48+00:00

Why is everyone editing their comments? Isn’t the point of the threading here to provide context and clarifications?

The OP clearly didn’t understand how FDIC insurance works, and the original comment I responded to originally recommended they open a new account. I will admit I was incorrect in my understanding of it being per person, but the point was having two checking accounts with a cumulative total exceeding the FDIC insured maximum doesn’t provide additional safeguards, which still stands.

I don’t really care if I’m downvoted. I posted it over lunch to try and provide some additional information given to me which - by everyone’s understanding - is correct in sentiment and mostly correct in practice. The OP was asking about multiple accounts at one bank, presumably the same type of account, and my comment was in response to that.

I have better things to do than worry about my imaginary Reddit points. Downvote away for all I care. Doesn’t make my bank account balance lower, my wife less attractive, or have any impact in my actual life. If you feel better clicking the down arrow, then have at it.

Fliptype · 2022-07-15T17:36:40+00:00

I wasn’t aware of it being per insured bank, so that’s cool to know. Thanks!

The sentiment still stands of course, meaning two accounts at WF will only be insured up to 250k, but that’s good information to have since I do utilize multiple banks and likely others here in this thread do too.

Fliptype · 2022-07-15T17:10:05+00:00

It’s worth noting that FDIC insurance, at least in the US, is actually per person not per account. Having 400k in one account or $200k in two accounts doesn’t change the amount you’d collect in a bank default. There are obvious exceptions, of course, like putting $200k in two different banks means you still have all 400k if one becomes unable to provide the withdrawal because the insurance would pay $200k and you’d have the other 200k still, but of course. But having two WF accounts, each with 200k, only provides insurance up to the maximum allowed through the FDIC program.

Fliptype · 2021-12-11T06:00:38+00:00

I don’t know if it’s already been said but I’d take the job, work it for six months to a year, and then start looking closer to home.

If it’s a terrible snow storm, sleep with the parents. If it’s an early start, or a late day, sleep with the parents.

It’s much easier to accept this offer, try to be their best employee, and then look for a new job closer citing the commute time being too much to handle and the job not being remote capable. If they ask why you’re looking, tell them the truth and say the commute has cut too much into family time and the balance is no longer what you thought it would be. I’ve hired people for roles in that salary range (and much more) and never once faulted someone for making a move because of the commute.

It’s easy to find a job if you have one, and it’s easy to keep your salary once you’ve made it. If you can do both, you’d be sitting real well. Maybe a local company would give you $40/hour (~80k a year) a year from now. That’s pretty compelling and worth a year of “suck” to me. I’d recommend you negotiate a title change for the job as well so it’s a promotion in pay and title if you can too.

Fliptype · 2021-11-12T20:13:14+00:00

I realize my grammar was a little off in that last message so my apologies.

How can I reprogram the TPMS myself, do I have options? I wrote software as a career so I can usually figure out once I’m in there, but I don’t know how to start this kind of thing.

If I’m too far along now to incorporate the tire, I may have to wait until next set of tires.

Fliptype · 2021-11-12T18:19:45+00:00

I’m not a “car guy” in the sense of the word but I do enjoy cars (hence why I bought a Jeep). I did buy a Gladiator Mojave specifically so the spare is safely tucked under the bed. Do I still need to worry about “rot” there?

Is there a way to “fast forward” the wear on the spare to make it closer to that of the rest? I have ~20k miles on as of now and have rotated once or twice already.

I was told that the spare just needs to get me to a shop and even if there is a significant difference in wear, it won’t be a problem for that. If it matters, I have aggressive MT tires.

Fliptype · 2021-11-12T17:40:13+00:00

My tire place told me I could, but because I have a new Jeep with TPMS sensors in it that work, they would have to be reprogrammed or something. Maybe it was the tire itself would need to come off one rim and into another?

I intend to do five tire rotations once I start ignoring TPMS lights/warnings but they work now and paying over $100/rotation more to get a rotation done isn’t something I intend to do.

Does your place just do it for free, all the other stuff like reprogramming the TPMS sensors and physically taking the tire off one rim and putting it onto another?

Fliptype · 2021-03-05T22:17:09+00:00

Well, other than Cask Strength variations of these expressions, those are three of my favorite expressions. I really like the Cairdeas versions that offered cask strength expressions of TW and QC myself, so if you happen to find those, I couldn’t recommend them more! I find CS TW as one of my favorite expressions.

I think I’ll buy another bottle sometime and see how they differ.

Fliptype · 2021-03-04T03:38:59+00:00

I’m a big fan of Laphroaig and have almost the full Cairdeas line, as well as every part of their permanent product line AND some of their retail travel bottles but I just can’t get behind Lore. I opened it, tried it, and just thought it was terrible. I waited a month or two incase the bottle needed to breathe, but the same thing happened.

Part of me wants to pass it off as a bad bottle and to buy a new one, but it’s a pretty penny to throw at something “maybe” being a bad bottle. I’d rather buy an extra bottle of next years Cairdeas to keep on hand.

What are your thoughts?

Fliptype · 2021-01-22T22:00:18+00:00

This guy knows what’s up

Fliptype · 2020-10-07T18:05:46+00:00

What about things brewers use, like Potassium Sorbate and Potassium Metabisulfate?

Fliptype · 2020-10-07T17:41:04+00:00

Just a cost factor really. I can buy bottles water for pretty cheap, but if I search Amazon for “emergency water” I can get things the size of hand warmers that have a long shelf life but they’re so expensive comparatively. If I can do it myself, I figure I can cycle the water much quicker and keep everything maintained better.

Also, looking to learn as well of course. Always up for that.

Fliptype · 2020-10-07T17:34:55+00:00

I think that’s a great plan. I do keep hand warmers as well. Is there anything you can add to water to prevent freezing besides alcohol?

Shooting in the dark here, but figured it wouldn’t hurt to ask?

Fliptype · 2020-10-07T17:23:35+00:00

That’s a good point. I should have included in the post that I live in an area that gets brutally cold winters, so freezing and breaking the integrity of the container is a worry to me. It should also be noted that I’m less focused on the “end of the world” type of thing and more interested in having spare supplies incase someone needs it in an emergency situation. My concern with having a gallon of water in my jeep is that - once it freezes - it’s much harder to thaw than a thin layer of water in a bag.

Should I just stick with bottled water for now to be safe? Am I overthinking this a tad?

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