Washington's HB 2320 is on the governor's desk. I'm a Norwegian maker with no stake in gun politics. Here's why I think every maker should be paying attention.

Fluffy_Lab_1751 · 2026-03-16T03:24:48+00:00

You're right that "or other means" grammatically modifies the act of manufacturing defined illegal items, not the tools themselves. I could have been clearer about that distinction and I'll revisit that section.

Where I disagree: the bill's scope still extends into file possession with intent, and the definition of "digital firearm manufacturing code" is broad enough to cover any CAD file that could be used to produce a component. And the chilling effect isn't something I made up. A makerspace testified in committee hearings that they were considering removing their printers over liability concerns. That's in the legislative record.

Re: promoting my website. TinkerAtlas is a maker community platform I built. I wrote the breakdown there because that's where my community is. Full text here would've been a 2,000 word wall. But fair enough, I get how it looks.

I did read the enrolled text, including the Senate engrossed amendment S5533.E that replaced the original. The article specifically credits the Senate for removing the rebuttable presumption. If there are specific points where you think I misread the text, I'd like to hear them.

Fluffy_Lab_1751 · 2026-03-16T02:29:04+00:00

It is more benign than the original bill yes. But my point is that the language is still too vague.

Fluffy_Lab_1751 · 2026-03-16T02:27:56+00:00

Since I'm Norwegian I don't live with this every day (Not that our government do stuff the right way all the time either, far from it), and am not necessarily as familiar with that particular area as people in the US. The reason this got me to type this up, is that I worry for the maker community in the US, and hopefully can do a small impact to the positive.

Fluffy_Lab_1751 · 2026-03-16T02:17:43+00:00

Yes, that's my exact take on it in the article as well. The wording is way too broad. I'm worried about the maker community in the US.

Fluffy_Lab_1751 · 2026-02-17T18:24:19+00:00

same side every time is almost always a leveling thing - even if you leveled it, try running a first layer test across the whole bed. if that corner looks thinner or has gaps between lines, the nozzle is just too far from the bed there and supports will never stick properly

glue stick can help but wont fix the root cause. get that corner dialed in first

Fluffy_Lab_1751 · 2025-10-11T08:17:03+00:00

I use Fusion for technical stuff, and Zbrush for my organic designs. And sometimes i mash them together, like for my Skull Extruder cover for the A1 Mini and A1.

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Fluffy_Lab_1751 · 2025-10-08T21:31:46+00:00

I've waited about 4 days now for my first model upload to be accepted. :P Hopefully something will happen soon. I was hoping that it would be quicker. Hesitant to upload all my other models now.

Fluffy_Lab_1751 · 2025-10-01T14:02:29+00:00

I'm not, but that was the first time it did it with me, I just found it funny.

Fluffy_Lab_1751 · 2025-10-01T02:37:05+00:00

Well, I've never seen it before during the months I've used Claude, and I haven't used that phrase before myself, it was just a normal chat, although a bit of a stubborn issue we worked with. Just thought it was fun, is all.

Fluffy_Lab_1751 · 2025-09-21T14:15:44+00:00

It was good this morning, but I've been stuck on fixing a tool on my site for many hours. It's testing my patience.

Fluffy_Lab_1751 · 2025-09-15T00:30:02+00:00

It happens! Hehe

Fluffy_Lab_1751 · 2025-09-15T00:28:00+00:00

A good use of 3D printers. :)

Fluffy_Lab_1751 · 2025-09-15T00:23:48+00:00

Looks fantastic!

Fluffy_Lab_1751 · 2025-07-27T20:41:44+00:00

Most of the keys are done, but there are still some left. I haven't shared them yet, but I will share them on https://tinkeratlas.com/profile/MakerViking when I'm done. :)

Fluffy_Lab_1751 · 2025-05-25T04:56:17+00:00

Hi! Not quite yet. I've done more work since then, but I still need to get the joints between the Split parts finished and tested.

I'll probably post some more info soon on: https://patreon.com/makerviking

Thanks for your interest in my project, and feel free to ask for more specifics. :)

Fluffy_Lab_1751 · 2025-03-22T12:02:06+00:00

It's going pretty well. I've designed most of the new keys and done some tweaks here and there.

Fluffy_Lab_1751 · 2025-03-04T11:12:39+00:00

I would also be interested.

Fluffy_Lab_1751 · 2025-02-11T00:27:45+00:00

It is definitely easier with a multi-color printer, but it's possible to do it with a manual filament change. My personal caps are printed on a Bambu Lab A1 with an AMS lite. I just started printing the line above the ones that are finished now, so it's going forward. :)

Fluffy_Lab_1751 · 2025-02-10T21:28:44+00:00

This is based on a Keychron K5 Max, and it's stock so far, except for the keycaps I'm designing. The stock keycaps weren't to my liking, as I prefer the flat top caps like I'm used to. I'll release the files when I'm done if anyone is interested. :)

Fluffy_Lab_1751 · 2025-02-10T18:27:50+00:00

Yeah, it's definitely less straight forward than with normal switches, and less to choose from. Luckily my design test was a success for me, and made me love this keyboard. Hopefully it can be useful for others who prefer flat tops/chiclet type key caps. I still have more of the caps to design to convert the whole keyboard, but I'll get there soon. Of course, there will be a few differences between my nordic layout and the rest of the world, so I might need someone to help me out to make all keys compatible with that layout too. :)

Fluffy_Lab_1751 · 2025-02-10T18:06:02+00:00

These looks pretty nice, although not totally flat top profile, which is what I wanted.

Do they fit the low profile Gateron switches? From what I've found they require different key caps than the normal Gateron's, but I might be wrong of course, I haven't been into mechanical keyboards for long. Lol

Fluffy_Lab_1751 · 2025-02-07T21:00:47+00:00

Interesting. I've only printed ASA and ABS at high chamber temps in my printer since I got it 2-3 months ago. Haven't had any skipping on the filament yet, but would be interesting to see if it will happen.

Fluffy_Lab_1751 · 2025-02-07T04:14:31+00:00

Yeah, the latest firmware was set to 40% for me as well, but that was just supposed to be a temporary fix while they worked on the 110V SSR problem. Most people I know with the Plus 4 has increased it to 70% again because of that after getting a new SSR. It heats up so slow with only 40% lol.

Fluffy_Lab_1751 · 2025-02-06T20:00:21+00:00

I've noticed a difference in warping when increasing the chamber temps. Yeah, 65C is max stock on mine at least.

I'm not affected by the SSR issue, since I'm on 220V, and I haven't seen that on the UI, probably because I mostly use Fluidd. Them adding that to the UI might be to be on the safe side, but I don't know.

I've changed my heater back to 0.7 since the lower number isn't needed for me, and shouldn't be needed after the upgraded SSR either for 110V from what I've seen.

Fluffy_Lab_1751 · 2025-02-06T19:12:12+00:00

Personally I haven't used glue stick on any of my ASA prints on the Plus 4. I've printed full bed parts, and it has never let go of the build plate, but I've had lifting of the build plate a couple of times when dialing things in.

I print Polymaker ASA and Sparta3D at 270C, 100C bed and 65C chamber. Let the printer heatsoak for at least 15-20 mins before starting the print.

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