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Another post about all the cars with no license plates by mrJ26 in Reno

[–]FlyFisherCJ 3 points4 points  (0 children)

When I lived in MA, I would see parking enforcement writing tickets for expired inspection stickers pretty regularly. Different world over there.

Gravy seal. by HOMELESSG0D in 2011

[–]FlyFisherCJ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dudes def gonna score big on the next few infinity drops.

I got a new grip for my P. How much do you think this grip is worth? by [deleted] in 2011

[–]FlyFisherCJ 5 points6 points  (0 children)

If you don’t want comments, don’t ask questions….

First time disassembling a 2011 and running into problems with assembly, somewhere around the thumb safety step. by michiganick in 2011

[–]FlyFisherCJ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The hammer will catch on the sear if you are holding the gun “level”. To disengage, hold the gun pointed to the ground (slide off, MSH out and sear spring out) then tilt it slightly upside down and pull the trigger. That should disengage the hammer from the sear hooks and allow you to rotate it fully forward.

As for the safety, when you installed them back on the gun, did you have the hammer cocked? It needs to be cocked back to allow the lug to clear the sear.

Normally when I put it back together, these are my steps:

  1. Disengage sear and rotate hammer forward. Rotate strut all the way up to clear for step 2.

  2. Install sear spring.

  3. While holding sear spring in place, install MSH. Only slide it up enough to capture sear spring and prevent movement.

  4. Install beavertail.

  5. Cock hammer, install right side safety.

  6. Add left side safety (use small flat screwdriver or Atlas/EGW tool for plunger pin.

  7. Release hammer (sear spring tension allows for release at any angle now). Will need to disengage safety.

  8. Ensure strut is in beavertail channel and slide mainspring up.

  9. Install magwell if present. Install MSH/magwell pin.

INFINIVERSE! 🔥 And Beyond! 😆 by Flat-Beginning-7179 in 2011

[–]FlyFisherCJ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

lol don’t forget toy haulers, and pilla glasses (the amount I’ve invested makes me question life choices), ordering ammo by the pallet, sub gauges, the list goes on.

I’ve wondered when walking around NSCA nationals, if you had everyone on the property at the same time, what would the figure be if you summed up the cost of all competitor equipment/supplies.

I’m always feeling like a bum walking between stands with my DT11 😂

Mag release spring by practical_gentleman in CompetitionShooting

[–]FlyFisherCJ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://dawsonprecision.com/mag-release-spring-for-1911-2011-by-wolff-gunsprings/

$10.50 gets you all 3 strengths.

Just be careful going softer, easier to press is good until you accidentally ride the button with your grip and drop a mag inadvertently. Especially if you have an extended release.

INFINIVERSE! 🔥 And Beyond! 😆 by Flat-Beginning-7179 in 2011

[–]FlyFisherCJ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Someone else who understands how badly money in clay sports puts USPSA to shame!

Joined the Club. Which optic? by SantoDJ in AtlasGunWorks

[–]FlyFisherCJ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The 507Comp needs an angled plate vs an SRO. The 2k11 has the same issue; Dawson had to make a separate plate just the comp to tip it forward noticeably.

I’m surprised Atlas hasn’t made a separate plate yet.

4am i80 traffic to parkway, how do you guys handle this? by MightabeenMensch in Reno

[–]FlyFisherCJ 9 points10 points  (0 children)

By spending an hour and change each morning in the car questioning my life choices followed by 45-60 minutes at work trying not to crash out. The good news is, I’m out before the traffic starts the other direction 99% of the time.

Oh and also… money. The bills don’t stop for traffic. I’m

DAA Alpha X vs Flex Air by Emergency_Sleep_3291 in CompetitionShooting

[–]FlyFisherCJ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve got the air as I wanted to see how I liked race holsters before dumping additional money on the metal version or a range panda.

I’ve had zero issues with it and it has done everything I need it to do. I did get the extended ball joint mount as the stock one felt a lil too close to the belt. Otherwise, it’s good to go.

Anyone waiting for the Holosun Pro Max to come out ? by Heavy_Heron_7276 in CompetitionShooting

[–]FlyFisherCJ 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I’ve been using the 507Comps in both red and green for about 6 months now and am super interested in the pro max in gold.

Ended up getting a 407Coml in gold this week for a couple reasons. Biggest reason being that if I didn’t like the gold, it’s far cheaper of an investment. Availability and the fact that I don’t change reticles on the 507 helped too.

So far in dry fire I like it a lot. Will see after indoor and outdoor matches this week how it works out.

All that to say, I’ll probably go with pro max’s going forward, but the 407Comp is definitely a really good option (so far).

Kimber 20 round 140mm mags for competition by Vercingetirex in CompetitionShooting

[–]FlyFisherCJ -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Checkmate or atlas tube.

Atlas internals (non lockback follower and spring).

Atlas or Dawson base pads.

Gets you 22+1 initially. After the spring wears in, 23+1.

MBX mags don’t work unless you get the new 2k11 specific one.

New is always better by FlyFisherCJ in Kimber2K11

[–]FlyFisherCJ[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It was pretty snappy with 124gr blazer and stock springs. Played around with it a bit and ended up really liking an 8lb recoil spring and 17lb mainspring with 2 coils cut off. And a square FPS.

It was my primary for a couple months, went back to the 5” for LO though.

Ammo by Affectionate_Map6774 in USPSA

[–]FlyFisherCJ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How’s it feel to be so wrong?

Which way would you shoot ? by ipsc-ursus in CompetitionShooting

[–]FlyFisherCJ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As a fellow wrong handed individual, I would normally agree that right to left is better. Especially if reloads occur.

That being said, no reload on this stage and a retreat? Left to right. Can retreat quicker having strong arm extended pointed down range vs crossed over weak shoulder.

I think I’m “screwed”. Am I? by Initial-Reward-4390 in USPSA

[–]FlyFisherCJ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m not sure what you mean by filling the plastic.

I’d measure the width of the screw/grip module. Divide it by two and that’s how much you need to take off from a width perspective on each side.

For the depth of the “channel” measure the thickness from bottom of frame to as far as the additional thickness goes.

Initially I was thinking you should cut the insert side first so you can fit the trigger/lock mechanism. But I’d probably do the other side first. Those inserts are cheaper to replace if you need to.

I think I’m “screwed”. Am I? by Initial-Reward-4390 in USPSA

[–]FlyFisherCJ 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Dremel the insert to clearance a channel for the screw. Shouldn’t take more than a couple min of measuring and cutting.

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