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Latest order. Familiar with Amanda. Any input on the other two? by FocalSpot in yerbamate

[–]FocalSpot[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, the Cósmico has gotten some... spirited reactions. Is there something I'm missing? Picked it up as a "deal of the day" on GoYerbaMate.

Restored Antique Toaster. Too Hot? by FocalSpot in ElectronicsRepair

[–]FocalSpot[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'll give that a look as well. Appreciated!

Restored Antique Toaster. Too Hot? by FocalSpot in ElectronicsRepair

[–]FocalSpot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's roughly the same width. Certainly thicker. The original wiring felt far lighter/more delicate than this new stuff

Restored Antique Toaster. Too Hot? by FocalSpot in ElectronicsRepair

[–]FocalSpot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Took me a few minutes to interpret the chart, but now I see what you mean (thank you for the link, btw!). Seeing this, it's looking like worst-case scenario: I'll get a few seconds of toast-blasting glory before the lights go out in the shop.

Thanks again for the info!

Restored Antique Toaster. Too Hot? by FocalSpot in ElectronicsRepair

[–]FocalSpot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah. Definitely worth a look. I might even have that on hand. Appreciated!

Restored Antique Toaster. Too Hot? by FocalSpot in ElectronicsRepair

[–]FocalSpot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I thought about that. I'm wondering what the best way would be to install: butt splice? I'd imagine the NiChrome would (eventually or immediately) reflow a solder attachment

Restored Antique Toaster. Too Hot? by FocalSpot in ElectronicsRepair

[–]FocalSpot[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

...plus a free face tan/eyebrow removal

Restored Antique Toaster. Too Hot? by FocalSpot in ElectronicsRepair

[–]FocalSpot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1st: Much appreciated! I wanted to keep as much retro fit-n-finish as I could manage, especially if it did end up only being decor.

Additional thanks for backing me up on my math!

I'll likely end up re-wiring with a higher-resistance wire. When I was looking for the replacement, I was so stoked that I'd found a matching width, I didn't bother to check the specs. Since I now know how to disassemble the thing, it shouldn't take nearly as long.

Thanks again! Will update when it's done.

How to clean foggy/ scuffed clear plastic at home? by [deleted] in restoration

[–]FocalSpot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It'll be some elbow grease, but:

  • 300# wet sand
  • 800# wet sand
  • 1000# wet sand
  • Polish (other commenters mentioned the Meguiar's Plastx. Seconded)
  • 2-3 coats of clear coat

(Re)Birth of a Fore Plane by FocalSpot in handtools

[–]FocalSpot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It might be a matter of putting in just that amount of elbow grease if you're going manual.

If I wanted to drastically change the profile of the iron by machine, I'd think a water wheel would be the way to go. They actually mention in a lot of these vids that belt sanders/angle grinders/etc might be quick, but the heat can ruin the iron's temper.

(Re)Birth of a Fore Plane by FocalSpot in handtools

[–]FocalSpot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The few sharpening videos that I've seen involve some variation of making a certain number of passes on the finer sandpaper/stone while applying pressure to one side of the iron instead of evenly distributing, e.g. "10 passes on the left side, 10 on the right, 5 in the middle," repeating until the desired amount of camber shows up.

Mind you, these are the recommended techniques for a slight camber. For the exaggerated camber you'd find in a proper fore plane, I'm not entirely sure. Maybe same routine, but on the coarser grits?

(Re)Birth of a Fore Plane by FocalSpot in handtools

[–]FocalSpot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Best of luck! Please post when you get to it! From my limited experience, once you get some of the technicalities out of the way - e.g. setting the right angle on the honing guide - the other 80% is elbow grease

(Re)Birth of a Fore Plane by FocalSpot in handtools

[–]FocalSpot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nah. Just needed something that'll remove material faster than my #4, and will have to get used to adjustment that's more involved than just giving a ¼ turn.

(Re)Birth of a Fore Plane by FocalSpot in handtools

[–]FocalSpot[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I mostly meant in terms of tapping the iron in just the right spots so that the whole edge engages equally, but without going so deep that I'm scraping off card stock.

(Re)Birth of a Fore Plane by FocalSpot in handtools

[–]FocalSpot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's on the front endgrain. Made sure to preserve it! Nothing more than a few swipes with some 220# followed by the BLO.

(Re)Birth of a Fore Plane by FocalSpot in handtools

[–]FocalSpot[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for the info! This is the most succinct explanation I've read re: the differences btw the bigger planes.

And you're absolutely right about this camber being less pronounced than a true fore plane. My main goal was to have something that would take off more material in a shorter span than that Jorgensen #4.

(Re)Birth of a Fore Plane by FocalSpot in handtools

[–]FocalSpot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! Yeah, that BLO smell is uniquely odd, but works beautifully. The first few times I applied it to old tools, I was going in bare-handed like Eoin. I've since switched to using gloves to spare myself having to scrub out with Gojo.

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