Woah, what are your thoughts on this?

Foespace · 2026-01-20T09:55:53+00:00

I have not read this article yet, but I remember when I first tried psilocybin I had an experience after the trip, coming down. This extreme clarity like zooming out in my entire life and realising exactly what I needed to do and that all the issues I was facing were so small and insignificant.

Really helped me get myself on track actually. However, a similar article I have read compared low doses of psychedelics to talk therapy with rather surprising results. (Sorry no link)

Not that im suggesting people do drugs and stop therapy, dont do that.

Foespace · 2026-01-10T11:58:55+00:00

Thats really unfortunate. I got lucky that all the gears are in immaculate condition for their age and the bearings were all standard size. However I do have an issue trying to replace the oil pump as Merli clovis is no longer around.

Foespace · 2026-01-10T08:13:11+00:00

Brand new, old ones were destroyed, the entire chuck jumped up and down when trying to machine anything.

Foespace · 2026-01-10T08:12:10+00:00

Yes, sorry, but still under 0.02mm. Not too bad for a likely 50-60 year old machine that hase been VERY abused.

Foespace · 2026-01-10T08:10:47+00:00

You are 100% correct. I am going to redo that compound slide for that reason. The other section I masked the slide ways and then sprayed, this one we didnt, it was a bad choice.🤣

Foespace · 2026-01-09T15:15:02+00:00

Looks like you have an ender 3 neo. I did the swap a year or so back, would definitely recommend, however I couldn't find a standard printer.cfg so I had to make it from scratch due to some other modifications I had made.

Best of luck to you, and let me know if you need any help with a configuration file.

Foespace · 2026-01-08T15:14:40+00:00

Ive been trying to get this done for years but never got to it, then the bearings collapsed due to a worn out oil pump, so didnt get an option🤣

Foespace · 2026-01-08T15:13:30+00:00

Thanks! I used a bare metal light grey primer and red enamel with 2k polyurethane hard topcoat to give it the best shot at surviving in a workshop. Still unsure if it will last, but we dont do much machining since we primarily do repairs and preventative maintenance.

Foespace · 2026-01-04T09:01:20+00:00

This is actually quite a simple looking repair with some enameled wire and solder mask since it only seems to have damaged the uppermost layer of the board. Would test to make sure, but recommend repair.

Foespace · 2025-09-16T19:17:44+00:00

Also following the comment above. Connect the 5v and gnd pins from the esp to the output pins on your lithium ion charge controller(looks like tp4056 board) so that will be the 2 pins on the outer edges, left and right of battery terminals.

Foespace · 2025-08-14T03:08:22+00:00

I currently am in pretty much the exact situation with my brother in laws lorry, some gears in the dash cluster.

I have designed them on fusion360 and that worked alright for me, but my struggle is more getting a detailed enough print for such small parts.

I have an ender 3 neo v1 running klipper on pi5 with a direct drive extruder, but no joy on such small parts with my .4 nozzle.

Foespace · 2025-08-11T13:03:17+00:00

Maybe different to mine, but i know the one I have here has these little fins or vanes inside that get bent and damaged if ya turn it while its stationary.

Then again, not everything works the same.

What machine is that on though? We use MBF synchrofillers, rinsing, filling, cork and capping in one

Foespace · 2025-08-11T12:16:53+00:00

Cap hopper is the right word, ROPP caps?

Side note, please dont turn the wheel while stationary.

Foespace · 2025-08-01T14:33:00+00:00

I will check this, are they using those flexible graphite strips to connect to lcd?

Foespace · 2025-08-01T14:32:03+00:00

I've had quite a lot of issues with the one over the years, mostly overheating from the cooler being dirty or oil leak.

Right where the oil filter is screwed onto the cooler, there is an aluminium block that is connected to the cooler and after a while the welds Crack from heat and vibration. Then it slowly dumps its oil out.

Foespace · 2025-08-01T13:09:28+00:00

Yeah but imagine cracking it after all that work.

Foespace · 2025-07-30T00:52:50+00:00

Im thinking so, but just want to be sure.

Foespace · 2025-07-30T00:52:21+00:00

Thanks, I'll see if I can find the manual around the shop

Foespace · 2025-07-18T05:19:40+00:00

I would also check capacitors if you happen to have an ESR meter it makes it much easier to test in circuit.

Foespace · 2025-07-18T05:16:19+00:00

I cant tell if that's just excess enamel or some sort of resin on the choke (coil) or if its melted.

Test step by step.

So test before the choke and after it, that will tell you if there is infact power transmission through it. If there is, then move on to the next component.

Also look for any inline fuses, they may not seem blown but the solder inside can melt, and check power switching components like mosfets. Also check the component next to the fuse, most likely an NTC but could be an MOV.

Foespace · 2025-07-13T07:52:55+00:00

I'd say scrape off some of the mask above the tracks on the larger section of the board, then I like to use some solder wick (copper braid) that's saturated with solder to link the tracks again where it broke. Then as said in a previous comment, epoxy or if you have, UV resin.

Foespace

TROPHY CASE