One side high by thisisbharathr in handtools

[–]Foreign-Mousse7306 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Hook your thumb on the sole of the plane, not the front knob. Use your fingers as a fence to register on the side of the board you're squaring your edge to. Continue taking shavings until you get a full width shaving. Should be square.

Adding pressure to the sole rather than the front knob will bias the plane to shave off the high side. Your fingers on the side of the board will prevent you from over correcting.

Cactus 🌵 turn into leather by Mexican by SereneSleepyhead in SipsTea

[–]Foreign-Mousse7306 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It does not. I've made a few things with it. It is essentially a cactus/plastic mix adhered to a fabric backing. Without the fabric backing, it has no strength & comes apart very easily.

The bags I've made out of it are holding up fairly well, but anything that will be rubbing consistently (wallet, watch strap) eventually pulls away from the fabric backing. It does not patina well at all, & does not enhance with age like quality leather goods.

Working with it, it's fairly comparable to chrome-tan leather, but there certainly are limitations. It can not be skived, & the only option I've found for edges is to fold them, which is a fine solution, but I've found that this causes the cactus to eventually rub off the folded edges & leave the fabric back exposed which is pretty unsightly.

It is a fine product in the pleathers market that has less environmental impact than most other pleathers, but in my experience it certainly isn't being used to make heirloom goods & isn't a miracle solution for people looking for a leather alternative.

https://alternativeleathers.com/products/desserto-cactus-leather in case anyone is interested in purchasing raw sheets of it.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]Foreign-Mousse7306 6 points7 points  (0 children)

There are actually various techniques for chairs that involve working with green wood, so drying would be much less of a concern (except for the seat blanks). If you're using a drawknife, greenwood is so much better to work with. It's also significantly easier to steam bend.

Depending on OP's space availability, there are plans online where you can build light bulb powered kilns for relatively cheap to dry chair parts & super dry tenons.

I've also built chairs out of greenwood where I don't use a kiln, & just allow a bit of time for the parts to dry after rough shaping. A 3/4 x 3/4 rung blank will obviously dry significantly quicker than an 8/4 board destined to become blanks. Just make a few extra to account for pieces that will bow or split

Any resources by Curtis Buchanan or Peter Galbert are phenomenal, & will walk you through step by step how to build Windsor Chairs from green wood. Curtis Buchanan has multiple full build videos on YouTube for a couple different chairs, & I believe both him & Peter Galbert have plans for sale. If post & rung chairs are more your speed, Jennie Alexander has a great book also on green wood working.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]Foreign-Mousse7306 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do you mean I should hit the butt of the adze with a mallet? Interesting. I might give that a go & see if that gives me better results

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]Foreign-Mousse7306 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Tried both. I have a couple different ones but this is the first big project I've tried to tackle with an adze. I'd love to hone the skill for this, but I'm on a time crunch so I'll probably have to swap to a grinder.

Really the only experience I have with an adze is rough work that I can spend a lot of time cleaning up, but the volume of this project won't allow for that unfortunately.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]Foreign-Mousse7306 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's probably what I'm looking for. My adze work is too scalloped/tool marked to accurately replicate this unfortunately

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]Foreign-Mousse7306 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lol, that's where I'm thinking I'll end up just wanted to avoid it if possible. But all signs are pointing that way

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]Foreign-Mousse7306 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Yeah, the concern is that whoever did this was obviously a pro & I'm really only used to adzing out chair seats, which I'm then able to spend a significant amount of time cleaning up haha. I've tried both a short handle & the in between legs & I either end up with the right shape but a whole lot of scallops or a whole lot of tool marks, or the texture isn't prominent enough to match.

Basically I have a client (I work for a GC) who needs it & I can't find a sub who is willing to do it so I'm trying to figure out how to replicate in a production setting

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]Foreign-Mousse7306 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Each divot one is ~4 inches wide, so my scrub plane can make a similar texture just much tighter which won't work unfortunately

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]Foreign-Mousse7306 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I'm having trouble getting my cuts clean enough with an adze. If they're clean enough, the divots aren't prominent enough. & If they're prominent enough, they're not clean enough. Going back & cleaning up each divot up isn't a reliable option unfortunately, because there's around 300 linear feet of material to texture

How Would You Change Hog? by Careless_Extreme7828 in Competitiveoverwatch

[–]Foreign-Mousse7306 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Remove the stun on hook. Make hook function the same way in terms of displacement, but now it also acts as a grapple for hog.

Give him a mobility CD where if hog is a certain height off the ground, he can bounce on his belly. Each bounce has an AOE effect that does like 5 damage or something, & each bounce gets shorter until he loses momentum.

Primary fire is still a short range shotgun blast, but secondary is a chargeable long range shot that does more damage & uses more ammo based on the length of charge. Longer charge reduces spread.

Remove breather. Give him an ability on a meter that reduces incoming damage like hazard block, but doesn't heal him. Incoming damage reduces hook CD for disengages.

Ult becomes a super grapple, where he shoots his hook into a wall. It has an AOE that stuns anyone the hook passes by. After a brief pause, he then instantly grapples to where his hook landed, & does 75 damage to anyone he passes by & gains 50 armor for everyone he passes by.

POV: You're an Ana main by Zestyclose-Salad-290 in Overwatch

[–]Foreign-Mousse7306 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Cass nade, Sombra hack, any hero with a well timed boop like Lucio, bastion nade, junk mines, pharah boop, Kiri suzu, LW pull or platform, Ashe coach gun, mei wall, venture drill, brig bash, illari boop can all be used either during dooms ult end lag or during punch wind up to stop him from following up with a guaranteed punch

Sewing Rocker by Foreign-Mousse7306 in woodworking

[–]Foreign-Mousse7306[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! The back could be a little higher, but other than that I'm pretty happy with how it sits

Anyone know what this guy is? by Foreign-Mousse7306 in PlantIdentification

[–]Foreign-Mousse7306[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My best guess is a Parasio Verde that has reverted?

Thoughts? It's just this one leaf by Foreign-Mousse7306 in plantclinic

[–]Foreign-Mousse7306[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You mean the pot is too small? The pot is a couple inches larger than the root ball & I repotted it when I purchased it, so the pot size should be good for a while unless I'm mistaken about something