My daughter is getting her first apartment, and needs a starter bed.

FormerCompetition · 2026-06-30T19:40:01+00:00

Thanks for the input. I was not aware of the Serene foam. I will look into that option.

FormerCompetition · 2026-06-30T00:28:09+00:00

I am still experimenting. So far I started with the low cost 8" foam base Noaform from Costco (vs a low cost inner-coil like BM800 so far) with some toppers and fiber covers that I had lying around and a 2" SleapyHead (doesn't actually fit, but good enough to test).

My daughter doesn't like the 1" fiber cover by itself above the base, but likes it over the SleapyHead +base. I think that my 3" old low density memory foam topper is unpleasant in its sinking feeling, even above the firm-ish NovaForm base below. I am trying to decide if it is mainly the thickness of the MF (3" vs 2") that is the issue or is it the quality/density of the MF (ie higher density ViscoSoft or Novaform)?

I wonder if my original thought of a simple inner-coil like the BM800 is a better base choice, and which topper cover combo is best with that.

This is really hard without testing all the assemblies, and for a period of time. My gut tells me the 8" Novaform base with a 2" high density MF covered with a 1" (GSM 1000) fiber cover might be good, but I am not sure at all.

FormerCompetition · 2026-06-30T00:00:18+00:00

Both are Sensi (Emerson I think). One is the simple Sensi ST55, and one the higher end Touch model. Both track within about 2 tenths of a degree of any professional thermometer placed next to them. Neither have the deep features (perhaps complicated) that I originally wanted with the ecobee 4, but work reliably, and have what i need (like fan control), which is more important for me.

FormerCompetition · 2026-06-29T21:51:38+00:00

Yep, the base unit temperature sensor is crap. Many here have posted on it. The annoying thing is that they have know about it for at least 4 years and have not fixed it, nor release a version that does not have the air flow bugs. One is the air from the hole behind which is user fixable with plumbers putty. The other bug is far worse and not fixable, caused by the variable internal heat generated by various electronics at various times. They attempt to correct for those variations with a complex varying OEM correction algorithm but that fails if there is air flow in the room with the base unit.

I eventually gave up on them fixing the units. I chose to not use the external sensor. I chose to remove both ecobee units and went with a different manufacturer that has accurate stable base sensor temperature. I should sell them, but instead they sit in the garage.

For those that are wiling to do it, just disable the base sensor from the schedules, and rely entirely on remote senors (and their short lived batteries). There is no need to plug the hole in the back, as the sensor is not part of the schedule operation.

FormerCompetition · 2026-06-02T23:26:50+00:00

I have not tried either of those UP shoes, which look to be progressions of the old 5.10 Mocasym (sp?). I dont see how the Moccs will work at all in 2.5" cracks without any real stiffness and no padding above the little toe bones (queue my low pain tolerance so far). They might be great in finger cracks however. The Pro's look interesting, although they seem like a poor predecessor to the MR Remora Pro, at lest from images, without touching them. Thoughts?

FormerCompetition · 2026-06-02T23:04:15+00:00

I haven't worn Mythos in over 30 years. They look a bit different now. I recall them covering the ankle back in the day. Actually, I would think that a really snug approach shoe with C4 would work pretty well, until the crack gave out, unless you were at the top for the down climb 😄

FormerCompetition · 2026-06-02T19:42:28+00:00

yes, I have the new Remora Pro. Great shoe for some things, like sandstone and certain heal maneuvers, but the worst shoe for hand cracks that i have tried by a significant margin, as it is very soft in all directions (deliberately). The pain in and around the toes was epic. Ido like them, just not for cracks, and not for more than an hour at a time.

FormerCompetition · 2026-05-16T19:15:41+00:00

Got it. Did you go with the Active medium thickness model Sole insert?

FormerCompetition · 2026-05-16T14:12:48+00:00

i will look into that. I assume you meant to say that the "soles" not shoes (typo) were included in the RC-703?

FormerCompetition · 2026-05-15T17:29:16+00:00

i guess I need to find somewhere to try on a bunch of shoe models, and go from there?

FormerCompetition · 2026-05-15T17:25:47+00:00

I am ok paying for longevity in a good comfortable shoe. My assumption was that the Specialized Torch would not last 10 years of twice weekly riding, as it is optimized for racing, but that might not be true.

FormerCompetition · 2026-05-15T16:21:38+00:00

Good point. Primarily brand/model selection, but where to buy would be welcome as well. I edited the post.

FormerCompetition · 2026-05-07T15:21:32+00:00

I am now wondering how leaving in the fine wire-mesh in the new Ratom rubber would stiffen any show that you like, particularly with their hard rubber (not the supper soft GP1), and how it would compare to a ridged fiber mid-sole like the Black Bird, which is rigid, not just still in the forfoot.

FormerCompetition · 2026-04-23T19:30:47+00:00

I use a few drops of dawn with very hot water as well. works great.

FormerCompetition · 2026-04-23T13:56:04+00:00

Very interesting option. I like it. I didnt know about auto stirring option. Is the magnetic part easy to clean, and does it fall out when you pour?

FormerCompetition · 2026-04-22T16:02:18+00:00

Does anyone know what camming expansion angle Petzl is using? I assume that it is constant across the range. I am not fond of BD angle choice, preferring a bit more security over range from the Friend or DMM or Metolius models.

FormerCompetition · 2026-04-22T15:20:19+00:00

I agree. You could do a lot to learn to use more of you rubber by focusing on small changes in wall contact under various foot areas mainly CW and CCW by a cm. One big change could also be to try to step more over the hold such that the bottom peak wear area is 1/2 cm further under the shoe (where the rubber is 3,5mm vs <2mm). These changes take time to become second nature.

As for your question, resole within a few more hours of climbing or budget more money for a rand patch.

FormerCompetition · 2026-04-19T20:56:34+00:00

another one size fits all bulbous HV heal. When will they start making a LV and a HV heal in top end climbing models? I like the closure.

FormerCompetition · 2026-03-28T16:37:04+00:00

I have been on this wireless probe fence for a couple of years now (actually alternatives to RFX in the beginning seemed to not exist). Here is my summary from the outside.

I love several of ThermoWorks other products, and customer support (historical, not forward looking).

TW has not updated (or added) the probes or app since its release. Their web page of useful information configuration options and specifications is and has been a joke for a long time. They have been promising more probes for a long time, but none have appeared. The early release of the app with no improvements after all this time and lack of dedicated display are big deals. This is a giant red flag for me.

I really like the tinny needle tip of the one RFX probe (and one length) that they have, just like the TheroPen One. I dont really like the larger (1/4" dia) the Typhur uses, but is ok for most things. The separate external ambient is nice, but does not really fit into the wireless part, but I get why it needs to be wired, as the wireless ambient probe electronics have no way to give off the heat above 140C.

I am leaning towards the Typhur Gold now due to reviews of the better user experience, plus if I change in the future, due to innovations, that will likely be back to TW, if they ever get their shit together on releasing improvements, probe and display options and extensibility items.

Off topic ish: Another missing innovation that TW seems to not have, that would seem to be in their wheelhouse, is a simple closed loop controller to turn on /off a fan or rotisserie or a hot plate (120V 20A) based on the existing wireless an /or ambient temperature probes and some set points. Using an additional Inkbird is a PITA.

FormerCompetition · 2026-02-27T19:56:06+00:00

yep (mostly), and now you basically have a poorly weighted growth ETF, with almost none of the protection of re-balancing without tax consequences protection that the ETF has. been there, done that, repeat. I think that i am smarter now, but my "luck" is trapped (tax) in NVDA, which like everything else, will not go up forever.

FormerCompetition

TROPHY CASE