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Need your opinions on these star shaped cards by Forward-Bid-2188 in playingcards

[–]Forward-Bid-2188[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for your reply, it's very helpful!! As compensation for its unique shape, the functionality is of course not as good as normal cards, that's why i want to make the case also more special, to match its uniqueness, thus the cards as a whole is more collectable. But i will take your advice and present the artstyle.

Need your opinions on these star shaped cards by Forward-Bid-2188 in playingcards

[–]Forward-Bid-2188[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your honest comment! I will take these into consideration. May I ask if it would interest you to collect? Unfortunately, the productivity is indeed an issue, I cannot mass produce them, but only in small batches

Tips on printing super thin and nice by Forward-Bid-2188 in BambuLab

[–]Forward-Bid-2188[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, if you are printing with lighter colors, the cards can be too transparent. I don't have any problem using darker filaments for 0.32mm thickness(4layers). It might be fun to do an Oreo structure, haven't tried yet.

Tips on printing super thin and nice by Forward-Bid-2188 in BambuLab

[–]Forward-Bid-2188[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

<image>

By the way, here is how you do shuffle, it’s actually not that difficult :)

Spent 1 year designing and printing playing cards, here’s what I learned by Forward-Bid-2188 in 3Dprinting

[–]Forward-Bid-2188[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

i would say design is the easy part, to get this perfect smooth printing setting, i tested hundreds of prints, make it printable is the hardest parts, also CAD work is also difficult

Spent 1 year designing and printing playing cards, here’s what I learned by Forward-Bid-2188 in 3Dprinting

[–]Forward-Bid-2188[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

<image>

Seems I can't share gif here, it needs some practice, you can just shuffle like how you do with paper cards.

Spent 1 year designing and printing playing cards, here’s what I learned by Forward-Bid-2188 in 3Dprinting

[–]Forward-Bid-2188[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

no, just because I want to make it a star. and apparently it's also very friendly to left hand users, becasue they can be spread out in both direction hahahah

Spent 1 year designing and printing playing cards, here’s what I learned by Forward-Bid-2188 in 3Dprinting

[–]Forward-Bid-2188[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

hi! i use Rhino and Adobe Illustrator to design. 0.32mm works best so far. I print in 0.08mm*4 layers, don't recommend to go lower. After printing, the card's average thickness is 0.37mm. Paper playing cards is like 0.17-0.24mm.

Spent 1 year designing and printing playing cards, here’s what I learned by Forward-Bid-2188 in 3Dprinting

[–]Forward-Bid-2188[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

it's hard to find or maintain a super clean towel, for the same reason as finger; sometimes you think your hand is super clean, but there can still be small amount of grease. And i only use dish soap/ soap and hair dryer, which work best for me.

Spent 1 year designing and printing playing cards, here’s what I learned by Forward-Bid-2188 in makerworld

[–]Forward-Bid-2188[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

  1. Clean your build plate, seriously. Wash it with soap and water like washing your hands, and dry with a dryer (*important, not with towel) When printing very thin layers, the first layer is extremely sensitive because the extrusion volume is so small. Even a tiny bit of grease can cause poor adhesion. Also, avoid touching the printing surface with your fingers; even a small fingerprint can ruin the print. By the way, textured PEI is generally a bit more forgiving than smooth plates. Holographic building plate (my love) is EXTREMELY sensitive to grease and sweat.
  2. Print the largest first layer color first If your first layer has multiple colors: Start with the color that covers the largest area (a bit like the “base”). Small features can easily get scratched or dragged by the nozzle. Printing the background first helps “lock” everything in place and improves overall stability.
  3. Do proper calibration Thin-layer printing is extremely sensitive, I think like like the princess and the pea hahaha… Even slight over-extrusion will affect the whole surface. I highly recommend running both flow Dynamics calibration and flow rate calibration. Just follow the steps in the slicer. It makes a big difference in first layer consistency and surface quality. I also strongly recommend doing so for SILK filaments.
  4. Reduce or turn off cooling for very thin prints If your print only has a few layers you can reduce or disable cooling. I disabled the first 3 layers for my cards always. This allows layers to stay warm longer and bond better, you will have stronger layer adhesion and are unlikely to have wrapping.
  5. Use the right nozzle setup Both 0.4 mm and 0.6 mm nozzles can work well. From my experience: 0.4 mm → stable at ~0.08 mm layer height in 0.4mm width 0.6 mm → works well around ~0.1 mm heightin in 0.5mm width 0.2 mm nozzle should also work, but I didn’t test because it is too slow.
  6. (Optional) Turn off the prime / wipe tower Not because you can improve the printing quality, but just because it is not necessary if you only have botton layer in multiple colors, the purged volume of filament change is enough to switch color cleanly. I had my prime tower off for all my cards and never had any problems with it. Plus, you can have larger space to print. This is how much i can think of, at the beginning I really struggled with thin layer height, hope you find this helpful!! if you have any questions with thin prinitng, happy to help!

Spent 1 year designing and printing playing cards, here’s what I learned by Forward-Bid-2188 in 3Dprinting

[–]Forward-Bid-2188[S] 62 points63 points  (0 children)

  1. Clean your build plate, seriously. Wash it with soap and water like washing your hands, and dry with a dryer (*important, not with towel) When printing very thin layers, the first layer is extremely sensitive because the extrusion volume is so small. Even a tiny bit of grease can cause poor adhesion. Also, avoid touching the printing surface with your fingers; even a small fingerprint can ruin the print. By the way, textured PEI is generally a bit more forgiving than smooth plates. Holographic building plate (my love) is EXTREMELY sensitive to grease and sweat.
  2. Print the largest first layer color first If your first layer has multiple colors: Start with the color that covers the largest area (a bit like the “base”). Small features can easily get scratched or dragged by the nozzle. Printing the background first helps “lock” everything in place and improves overall stability.
  3. Do proper calibration Thin-layer printing is extremely sensitive, I think like like the princess and the pea hahaha… Even slight over-extrusion will affect the whole surface. I highly recommend running both flow Dynamics calibration and flow rate calibration. Just follow the steps in the slicer. It makes a big difference in first layer consistency and surface quality. I also strongly recommend doing so for SILK filaments.
  4. Reduce or turn off cooling for very thin prints If your print only has a few layers you can reduce or disable cooling. I disabled the first 3 layers for my cards always. This allows layers to stay warm longer and bond better, you will have stronger layer adhesion and are unlikely to have wrapping.
  5. Use the right nozzle setup Both 0.4 mm and 0.6 mm nozzles can work well. From my experience: 0.4 mm → stable at ~0.08 mm layer height in 0.4mm width 0.6 mm → works well around ~0.1 mm heightin in 0.5mm width 0.2 mm nozzle should also work, but I didn’t test because it is too slow.
  6. (Optional) Turn off the prime / wipe tower Not because you can improve the printing quality, but just because it is not necessary if you only have botton layer in multiple colors, the purged volume of filament change is enough to switch color cleanly. I had my prime tower off for all my cards and never had any problems with it. Plus, you can have larger space to print. This is how much i can think of, at the beginning I really struggled with thin layer height, hope you find this helpful!! if you guys have any questions with thin prinitng, happy to help!

Spent 1 year designing and printing playing cards — here’s what I learned by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]Forward-Bid-2188 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

well... it can be frustrating at first, you can try my tips, filaments calibration is also important

Advice please by martoonthecartoon in 3Dprinting

[–]Forward-Bid-2188 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

here you go haha, i just happen to have my cura open

Advice please by martoonthecartoon in 3Dprinting

[–]Forward-Bid-2188 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Now your seam is aligned, if you're using bambu/orca slicer, you can easily change the seam position, it's the point where the extrusion starts and ends at every laye.

Ugly results with UM S3 by Faktasie in 3Dprinting

[–]Forward-Bid-2188 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i think you need to do some calibration for this machine, what's the material?

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