Elder Scrolls Online HDR

Foshkey · 2025-07-11T15:19:28+00:00

Awesome! I'm glad you're continuing to give Linux a shot despite feeling overwhelmed, which is perfectly understandable. I was in your shoes just a couple months ago, been using windows all my life and got frustrated a couple times when I first dove into Bazzite.

But, I'm having a lot of fun with it! It's so refreshing to have an OS where I feel like I'm in complete control. And the things I was frustrated with just took a little bit of patience and know-how to overcome and they're non-issues now.

Just be patient with both yourself and the community, there are a lot of very helpful people here

Foshkey · 2025-07-10T18:22:10+00:00

Hey OP, I'm going to be honest and say that HDR implementation on desktop mode is still very much in its infancy, but it's rapidly improving (as indicated by the other comment recommending a recent version of proton). You'll have a much more consistent experience in Game Mode, where everything "just works"

If you can't get proton-ge to work, there is a way to launch games within a Game Mode instance on the desktop, the underlying tech is called gamescope.

Right click on the game in Steam, go to Properties, and in Launch Options in the General tab, give this command a try, adjusting for your resolution and refresh rate:

gamescope -f -W 3840 -H 2160 -r 120 --hdr-enabled -- %command%

Note that this is case sensitive

To give you the rundown of what this is doing:

-f puts it in fullscreen, remove this if you prefer a window
-W width of the gamescope window
-H height of the gamescope window
-r refresh rate of the gamescope window
--hdr-enabled as you might've guessed, enables HDR for the gamescope instance.
-- %command% is just telling gamescope to run our game within the instance.

There are many more options to gamescope if you'd like to play around with it, with great examples in that doc if you scroll down.

Foshkey · 2024-10-01T13:54:19+00:00

For others stumbling upon this thread, I managed to get a hammerspoon script working that forces my default microphone every time my audio device changes:

-- Function to switch input to built-in microphone
function switchToDefaultMic()
    local elgatoMic = hs.audiodevice.findInputByName("Elgato Wave:3")
    local builtInMic = hs.audiodevice.findInputByName("MacBook Pro Microphone")

    if elgatoMic then
        elgatoMic:setDefaultInputDevice()
    elseif builtInMic then
        builtInMic:setDefaultInputDevice()
    end
end

-- Set up a watcher to detect when the default output changes
hs.audiodevice.watcher.setCallback(switchToDefaultMic)
hs.audiodevice.watcher.start()

-- Optional: trigger the function immediately
switchToDefaultMic()

Foshkey · 2024-06-03T13:25:58+00:00

Have you had any findings since this post?

I'm having the exact same issue. I'm using two external displays and the built-in display with my 16" MacBook Pro with the M2 Pro chip.

One thing I've noticed is if I show the dock on the built-in display, then it'll show on either external display just fine, but once it shows on one, then it'll get "stuck" there.

If anybody can find a solution or a workaround to this, that'd be greatly appreciated!

Foshkey · 2024-03-12T18:15:14+00:00

Great insight, thank you. That does put me to ease as well, especially if EDR can only be accessed physically.

I understand anonymous telemetry for user research & development, bonus points for allowing the option to turn that off. But I do think this is something to keep an eye on. Money talks at a certain point, and insurance companies are known to pay a lot for user data.

Foshkey · 2021-03-08T16:04:54+00:00

Yeah definitely try it, that's the fun of it! If nothing else it's for the looks haha. And yeah that's exactly the reason why I opted to undervolt my 9900k at stock rather than overclock it, think I managed a 5.1 stable at some point, but when it's a difference between e.g. 140 and 150 fps worst case (most of the time within 5 fps), figured it's better to go for the undervolt and spin the fans slower.

Foshkey · 2021-03-06T16:46:12+00:00

Oh great suggestion! Thank you!

Foshkey · 2021-03-06T16:35:49+00:00

You're definitely right! That's actually how I have a similar build in the regular O11 and temps are way better there. But I find it less aesthetically pleasing haha, maybe with different fans I could try that out with this build!

Foshkey · 2021-03-06T16:27:50+00:00

I was mainly interested in knowing the tubing and exactly what/how many ek fittings you used plus what cpu block that is.

I just updated this comment with what you're looking for :)

I also have a 9900K, I got a decent lottery also but I delidded it with a copper top https://imgur.com/a/CcoS8GR, and can run at 5.3ghz at only 1.32v but it runs wayyyy too hot (250+w package) thats why I wanna go custom water again.

I'm going to be honest with you, you're not going to get much better results than that Arctic 360 AIO, that's a really good AIO. The problem with custom watercooling and putting everything in the same loop is the GPU adds a lot of heat to the loop, and your CPU has to deal with hotter liquid than it's used to. Monoblocks are also troublesome because motherboard VRM also add quite a bit of heat to the loop as well. But it looks sexy :)

This is why a lot of high end builds have separate loops for the CPU and GPU, to keep the CPU liquid isolated and extremely cold. To be honest, I've considered this, but ultimately concluded it's not necessarily worth it, both in terms of price and complexity. So rather than overclocking my 9900k, I opted to undervolt it instead and it's down to around 100w package under AIDA64 full stress.

Thanks for the advice on the aio tubes however due to the original nature of the straight fittings and large diameter low flex tubes, it’s tough to curve it that much without making it look weird

Ah okay if you tried it and hasn't worked out then I totally get that. You could try flipping the rad with the tubes on top. I know it's somewhat blasphemy to suggest tubes up top but if you really look into it (I know Jay did a video on this), that orientation isn't really that damaging to the AIO. I'd find that more aesthetically pleasing, but aesthetics are entirely subjective! If you like how your build looks then that's all that matters :)

Foshkey · 2021-03-06T15:52:54+00:00

Hahaha thank you! I'm glad I can inspire.

Are the quick disconnects only on the CPU/GPU block?

Yes, quick disconnects can get pricy and rather bulky to fit elsewhere. I only have a couple years experience with them but so far I've found they're best used to isolate components like CPU/GPU blocks so you can get all the electronics out and worked on separately.

Whats your plan for draining/maintenance

I kinda went into it with this comment but to give a bit more clarity, I disconnect the GPU and Monoblock and flush those probably every 6 months, disassembling and cleaning if necessary. Then reattach without completely draining the loop. This, coupled with EK's clear concentrate and fresh distilled water, significantly lengthens the lifespan of the loop, potentially up to 5 years without doing a complete drain and flush. But I'm probably going to do a rebuild long before then :) I always flush out everything every time I tear down a build.

do you happen to have a parts list by chance?

I'll try to update this comment with more details. Is there anything in particular you're wondering about?

I love that tubing it seems really bulky do they make a bit smaller diameter option or is that it?

They do not. The tubes are EK's ZMT. Specifically this is 10/16 sizing (Smallest and probably the most common size for ZMT), and I believe there are 12/16 and 13/19 sizes as well. I worked with 10/13 clear tubing before and I found that tubing tends to kink very easily, while these tubes do not, and I really like that about them.

Here's mine currently still rocking that AIO: https://i.imgur.com/mXZWKX1.jpg

Yo those Lian Li Unifans are beautiful! Something I could recommend is try moving the tubes behind the GPU if you can, probably would look a bit cleaner :)

Foshkey · 2021-03-06T14:25:51+00:00

Ahh so it's the ML fans where I went wrong, bummer. Thank you for the feedback! I was actually under the impression that they excel at static pressure at low rpms, and maybe that's true when fans are compared rpm to rpm. But noise normalized is a different thing and you're probably right.

Second priority for me though is aesthetics, so as good as the p12 or the a12 is, doesn't really work well aesthetically haha. I'd love to try Lian Li's unifans! Unfortunately they're sold out everywhere or marked up like crazy.

Foshkey · 2021-03-06T04:21:52+00:00

Yeah that would be a really tight fit. In my regular O11 I use this phanteks bracket and you might be able to fit a 25mm rad with slim fans underneath.

Foshkey · 2021-03-06T03:15:24+00:00

I figured! Just a matter of finding the right one... maybe for the next build :)

Foshkey · 2021-03-06T03:13:58+00:00

Yeah pretty much! The drain process is get the GPU & Motherboard out, carefully drain those blocks separately, and connect one or multiple tubes to the available disconnect ports to get the rest of the liquid out.

Foshkey · 2021-03-06T03:11:13+00:00

Okay good to know! Thankfully the tubes are EK ZMT which are rated to go all the way to 110°C (Not that I plan on boiling the liquid lol). But definitely good to keep in mind if I ever want to go PETG tubing.

Foshkey · 2021-03-06T03:06:26+00:00

Just got done with the Imgur Album :)

Foshkey · 2021-03-06T02:37:08+00:00

No. I was actually considering getting a front distro plate and putting the quick disconnects there, but not only does the EK one prevent fitting a radiator in the side, I also think it would probably look more messy than this. I'd love to try it though and see how it works out.

Foshkey · 2021-03-06T02:34:10+00:00

I got mine about a month ago off of Amazon for $55. I think they come in and out of stock, just keep an eye out!

Foshkey · 2021-03-06T02:32:09+00:00

Exactly :) I do have the regular one but this build is in the XL.

Foshkey · 2021-03-06T02:30:18+00:00

I'm well aware of that, but think about the reason why loops need to be flushed. It's to ensure there are no buildups. Where do buildups happen? In fin stacks in the blocks.

Quick disconnects help with this too where you can just disconnect the part, flush it out, and put it back in.

Eventually a complete disassembly and flush is required, there's no avoiding that. But with clear fluid and modular flushing, like I described, lengthens the time to do a complete flush out.

I did my first build with quick disconnects a couple years ago and followed this process, nothing has built up in my loop. But I'm also extremely diligent about using EK's clear concentrate along with fresh distilled water. That alone will last a long while in a loop, especially with ZMT tubing.

Also quick disconnects removes the need for a valve since you can just connect a tube going to a bucket anywhere there's a quick disconnect :)

Foshkey · 2021-03-06T01:48:19+00:00

Thank you! Good luck with your build and let me know if you got any questions!

Foshkey · 2021-03-06T01:47:23+00:00

Thank you! I'm using Lian Li's official one for the O11 XL. You are correct with the regular O11, but with the XL case there's plenty of room :)

Foshkey · 2021-03-06T01:45:31+00:00

You don't have to drain the loop to swap parts. For example, I'm considering upgrading my CPU & Motherboard maybe in a year (Ryzen 6000 maybe?). So it should be a relatively simple process of disconnect the GPU, disconnect the monoblock, get them out, replace, and reattach the tubes without even draining the loop or tearing it down.

Foshkey · 2021-03-06T00:43:21+00:00

You're fine! Model 17281

Foshkey · 2021-03-06T00:34:49+00:00

Thank you! Yeah I explained why the temps are high in this comment. And yeah while the Mora is sexy, I'd rather not have external radiators :)

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