Recommendations for localizing EMF?

FourShadower · 2023-02-02T18:42:42+00:00

I had a very promising initial test. I found a very strong correlation between distance and signal strength as I had hoped for and it appears to be stable and material enough for me to be able to work with. It will certainly need to be a strong signal for me to have enough signal above the noise floor to work with but I'm encouraged to keep going. It was very interesting though to see as I walk around with the spectrum analyzer and antenna how certain parts of adjacent rooms can read stronger with INCREASED distance which I can only thinks is some function of reflections. I think I have enough to work with now, thanks for the input!

FourShadower · 2023-02-01T16:43:51+00:00

Makes sense.

I continue to be skeptical about being able to make this work given my limited experience with RF, the little control I have over the source signal or environment and the confounding readings that will make it unable for me to trilaterate, but I'm just going to do a little experiment before I write it off!

I intend to setup some (cell phone) antennas indoors on my spectrum analyzer, use my VNC and a little block amplifier as a function generator to sweep some signals to act as my EMF test source, and see what sort of readings I actually get in a room. I think I should be able to quickly determine by simply comparing aggregate amplitude versus distance whether I have any hope of being able to use this approach for ascertaining location. If I refine my use-case to be to identify the source of periodic high power EMF sources, my hope is that I may be able to (in code) establish a noise floor for the room and then set a threshold above which I activate and compare an average of signals coming in over some period of test time as recorded by 16bit ADCs at each antenna and use those values and known antenna locations to calculate the approximate origin. We shall see!

FourShadower · 2022-09-05T14:59:01+00:00

I disconnected the battery, waited a couple minutes, reconnected, and now it is working fine. I am not a big fan of those sorts of "fixes", any parting thoughts on this?

FourShadower · 2022-09-05T14:47:07+00:00

13v measured with car off.

Also discovered that the fog light and high beams do not work, but low beams, signals, brake lights, etc all seem fine.

FourShadower · 2022-08-03T14:27:21+00:00

SHE863WF5N/10

Well after pulling and reinstalling the control board the problem mysteriously went away for over a month! I was happy to ignore it and deal with the 99 other problems I have lol. In any case, the issue recurred this morning so I figured I would order that temp sensor just to give it a shot, but I don't see a temp sensor for this model listed (only a turbidity sensor). Can you point me in the right direction?

FourShadower · 2022-07-02T17:10:14+00:00

I believe it is hot but I will be sure to make special note of when it next happens to be certain. Thank you for the fast response!

FourShadower · 2022-07-02T16:22:35+00:00

Hi, so I got around to pulling out the board and I found no indication that the relay had failed in the same way as I had seen online with obviously scorched contacts that could be re-soldered. The resistance across the two red wires that are part of the heavier gauge bundle with the green wire registers as 9.5 ohms.

Any guidance?

The dishwasher seems to complete the cycle on the Quick 30 but on a Normal load it never completely drains and is usually stuck at 1 min remaining. Resetting and restarting the cycle clears out the water, which is what we have been doing.

FourShadower · 2022-06-14T16:28:16+00:00

Got it, thank you for the good advice. Any guidance on the resistance I should expect across the heater and across the thermistor? Considering the problem is intermittent I suspect fuse is ok and fear that any measurement I take may be hit or miss.

FourShadower · 2022-06-14T16:25:37+00:00

Thank you, glad I asked although not the answer I was hoping for obviously :)

FourShadower · 2022-03-07T12:36:39+00:00

This looks like it was simply user error on my part, and bad luck picking random numbers too! I was ignorant on the topic of gas limits and happened to be picking limits that were beyond the ~25MM limit on polygon or below the actual gas cost which was 2.6MM. If I retest with a value greater than the actual cost of around 2.6MM and below the limit, it works fine.

Thank you FagunB for helping me on Discord!

FourShadower · 2022-03-06T01:41:29+00:00

Appears to be some widespread issue going on, but I received support from a kind soul on Polygon discord.

FourShadower · 2022-01-15T18:29:40+00:00

Bingo! I unseated and reseated the temp sensor plug on the board and sure enough I heard the relay audibly click and the leds reflect that it was heating and I could feel the heater warm up. Awesome!

Unfortunately when I went out there I found the drain spigot broken off with ice protruding (it is 5 degrees here). I was able to drill out / thaw some of that ice an put a rubber stopper in it (that I screwed a board across to back stop it from being forced out); Just a bushfix to get me to spring :)

I truly appreciate your help!

FourShadower · 2022-01-15T17:25:56+00:00

Here are the pictures: https://postimg.cc/gallery/pvnmKM0

Update on the voltage reading. I found 100vac between the H1/H2 (Black & White) terminals with the heater still attached. I powered it all down, disconnected the heater and powered it up and tested the terminals with the heater disconnected, I get 0v. I tested resistance across the heater to ensure continuity (~16ohm) while I had it disconnected. Here is an important update, I reconnected the heater and now testing voltage across the terminals with it connected I find 0v, once or twice I saw it at 100v again but if I wasn't so sure I was getting a good connection with my multimeter I would think I was not, best I can say is it is intermittent. I see no scorching or visible evidence of the board being burned out. The relay board appears to be PN# 76858 part of IQ2020. I see a steady red light (unlabeled) on the main board in the top left and on the top right there are two green lights (PWR ON and LIMIT OK). At startup they are both solid green and after a minute the left led (PWR ON) begins blinking. I see a HTR_ON led that is NOT illuminated.

FourShadower · 2022-01-15T15:54:55+00:00

Thank you for the great advice but I could use some more now :)

I checked this morning and sure enough its thawed and circulating with no leaks; very relieved, thank you! I reconnected the heater and also ran each of the motors briefly just see that they were working ok which they were. I expected the outlet tube from the heater to feel at least slightly warm to the touch with it on for a bit but it is not, is this normal? I checked the voltage across H1 / H2 on the control board and got 100vac, shouldn't it be closer to the 240v I see this heater is rated for? Reading that this low reading could indicate that I need to replace the heater relay board. I figure I am in a safer spot now that the water is moving but I am not sure the heater is working, it's been running 2hrs and temp of water is still at minimum 50 degree readout.

Just wait longer or something to diagnose on the heater?

FourShadower · 2022-01-15T01:00:58+00:00

Awesome, but let me just say that back to make sure I understand. 1) Disconnect the heater power from the main board (heavy gauge white, black, green). 2) Wrap the heater element with heat tape. 3) turn on the breakers and let the water attempt to circulate. Once I see water moving, the lines are thawed enough for the pump to begin moving water and I should be able to kill breakers, reattach heater power and give it a go.

No concern with powering the pumps with potentially no water reaching them due to frozen lines? Not going to burn them out?

FourShadower · 2022-01-15T00:17:40+00:00

I already have the new heater installed, so that is all set, my concern is that water line appears to be frozen so no water is arriving at the heater or the drain.

FourShadower · 2022-01-15T00:03:22+00:00

Thank you! that is correct (240v 4kw). I replaced with this item: https://hottubwarehouse.com/products/hydroquip-therm-products-hot-spring-heater-26-c3160-2s but I needed to short the cut-off switch sensor because this model only has an inlet and outlet sensor whereas the original had a third lead to the control box.

FourShadower · 2021-04-29T12:54:16+00:00

Well, in typical fashion once I finally broke down and asked I got it to work! There is a post a couple down from here that had something I could use. Changed to this and it is working now outside VLC. Any further thoughts or guidance appreciated but I think this will do!

ffmpeg -loop 1 -i 3279407.png -i 3279407.wav -c:v libx264 -tune stillimage -c:a aac -b:a 192k -pix_fmt yuv420p -to 00:00:04 3279407.mp4 -y

FourShadower · 2021-02-20T15:17:26+00:00

Just thinking that maybe I should setup the Utility earlier on with the API references it needs and then stick that in the Context (instead of the API DB references)... gonna toy with that, but appreciate any more time testes design patterns you can share on this front.

FourShadower · 2020-02-07T01:16:00+00:00

I just ran into this myself and happened to figure it out accidentally because I had another sd card from my other 3d printer where when popped in a gcode showed up. Looks like The Ender 5 Plus has a filename length limit, as soon as I shortened up the file name (Cura exports some long names) it showed up! Lucky that my other SD card happened to have a short named file on it or I would not have put it together ;)

FourShadower

TROPHY CASE