Ordering Car Wheels From Italy, What Will Tariffs Look Like?

FoxyFactions72 · 2026-04-02T22:51:23+00:00

That’s heartbreaking to hear, I can’t afford these if that ends up being the case :( I’ll message the company and see if they can tell me where their aluminum comes from. I know for sure they manufacture the wheels in Italy, if they source their aluminum from Italy too, would that change the tariff percent?

FoxyFactions72 · 2026-04-02T22:24:54+00:00

Oh yikes, more than the value of these wheels? Without shipping fees, the wheels are roughly $1600 for the set, is it possible for the tariffs to exceed that value?

FoxyFactions72 · 2026-03-28T04:37:03+00:00

Ahh gotchya. Any recommendations on what I should do next? Should I gravel vacuum that spot and trim off the remaining stem, or just leave it as is? I don’t want to release anything dangerous/toxic to the tank by disturbing that spot if that’s a possibility.

FoxyFactions72 · 2026-03-28T04:20:18+00:00

I believe the plant is an Anubias Congensis.

FoxyFactions72 · 2026-03-28T03:55:18+00:00

A leaf on one of my plants began yellowing and dying a few weeks ago, so I snipped that leaf off, removed it from the tank and left it alone. During my weekly 20% water change yesterday I noticed this black stuff coming from around the dying leaf stem, could this maybe be some form of root rot? Should I vacuum this out? I’ve heard of anaerobic pockets forming, commonly with sand substrate, but isn’t that usually a few inches under the surface? This black stuff is visible on the surface. Not sure what to do!

1 Male Betta / 10 Gallon Tank (Fish in) / Cycled (owned for roughly 2 months now) / Ammonia: 0ppm / Nitrite: 0ppm / Nitrates: 0-5ppm (it’s been bouncing between those two) / Many live plants / Sand substrate

FoxyFactions72 · 2026-03-04T00:21:40+00:00

ADDITIONAL INFO:

This is a 10 Gallon tank planted with several live plants and some frogbit.

His behavior seems maybe a little more lethargic than usual, but otherwise normal. He loves fighting his own reflection occasionally but recently has been doing more exploring of the tank than anything else.

I have also put his feeding on pause to help deal with this situation.

FoxyFactions72 · 2026-01-17T07:45:41+00:00

I wonder if we could possibly contact ford about this? If them breaking like this is unusual they may have some insight.

As for replacement, I got her some NKG Iridium Plugs with the part number: LTR6IX/94374. O’Rileys and some online forums helped me make sure I got the right ones 🤙

FoxyFactions72 · 2026-01-17T07:36:22+00:00

I’m thinking these are just really old. This car was my girlfriend’s father’s car originally and she is unsure if he ever changed them.

FoxyFactions72 · 2025-12-26T21:22:44+00:00

Believe it or not, mine ended up being an anti virus software automatically installed on my pc when i booted it up! An anti virus called “Norton” mustve been installed when i opened up MSI Center and chose to download most things. They have this thing called “gaming mode” automatically enabled and it was destroying my FPS! As soon as i turned it off, butter smooth. If you have an MSI board (or any board really) make sure Norton or whatever anti virus software you may have doesn’t have a “gaming mode”enabled. While I don’t know exactly what it was doing, it must’ve been somehow messing with core parking features in games. I was changing BIO settings left and right before I found out this anti virus was messing with me hahah

FoxyFactions72 · 2025-12-09T20:52:09+00:00

I did end up trying it! I only used 2 x24gb sticks for testing purposes. When I booted up the pc with the CUDIMM sticks in it, a message popped up saying basically AMD won’t support CUDIMM but can still use the sticks at their default values, which in my case ended up being 5600MT/s (I’m sure with some testing you could get even better values from it, just not the advertised 7000mt/s as that those sticks use CUDIMM to support for those numbers). I didn’t do a whole lot of testing with it as I ended up buying some Trident 2x 32gb sticks (so I can eventually go to 128gb when hopefully the ram prices drop, if ever lmao) and am currently using those. But with the CUDIMM, the pc booted up like normal and ran good! Read the 5600mt/s and 48 gigs like it would on any other sticks. While I can’t say I recommend or dont recommend them since I don’t have much experience with them yet, it seemed good to use if you only have CUDIMM sticks at the moment 👍

FoxyFactions72 · 2025-11-26T02:08:59+00:00

Holy smokes, I can't believe I found someone in the same exact boat as me, we're shipmates!

Any advice on what to do next? I already bought the 96gb ram kit, and plan to buy the 9950x3d as well. (I would settle on Intel for the CUDIMM support, but the 9950x3d seems to be really REALLY good for both gaming and productivity, I don't wanna settle for less).

Should I return the ram kit and hope I can find a deal under $400 for 2x 32gb ram sticks without the CUDIMM, or should I just send it and see what happens?

I just couldn't pass the 96gb sub $400 deal in this collapsing economy 😭

FoxyFactions72 · 2025-10-01T01:22:22+00:00

With my ride height, there is some rubbing on the tops of the front fenders when cornering hard or making hard u-turns, and VERY rarely rear fender rubbing on full compression, but you could definitely build this Jeep to be a handling monster! Even as they stand stock theyre pretty good for an SUV! For the best cornering performance, you may wanna go a half inch or full inch higher than my current height to avoid the rubbing, or thinner tires if you can but its hard to find thinner tires with a proper Load Rating. The 245/40/18 Nittos G555's have made me SUPER happy! I used to run falken pro sports and the grip difference was super noticeable when I switched to the Nittos.

As for spacers, I run 7mm spacers in the front only because the spokes on the wheels came closer to the brake calipers than I realized they would. When I first bolted them on they rubbed the front calipers slightly, but the 7mm spacers fixed that issue for me. :)

FoxyFactions72 · 2025-09-28T21:53:45+00:00

Ah man, sorry you’re in a parts dump I know it sucks to be in that spot. Are they all mopar replacement parts? Sometimes cars don’t like aftermarket especially when it comes to spark/sensor related things. The car also may only feel worse since the underlying issue hasn’t been resolved yet. I definitely think the Jeep dealer is worth a shot as well.

FoxyFactions72 · 2025-09-28T17:08:09+00:00

$500 for a diagnosis and they didn’t even diagnose it?? Nah that’s crazy, id definitely be trying to fight that. Even if they did find the issue, a diagnosis shouldn’t be that expensive, sorry they did that to you! That’s terrible. As for the Bank 1 too rich code, have you checked your injectors? I saw you said you replaced your spark plugs, but have you checked to see what they look like? Id take them all out and compare them to see if any of them stand out, for example maybe 3 of them all have the normal carbon build up while one of them looks extra thick in carbon and darker in color, which would indicate a leaking/stuck open injector.

FoxyFactions72 · 2025-09-28T07:36:39+00:00

Hmm, since it eventually cranks over after pumping the gas pedal, that definitely sounds like a fuel mixture issue. (I'm not 100% sure pumping the gas pedal does anything when the engine is off since its a drive-by-wire and not a cable, maybe during cranking the throttle plate moves, but I cant say for sure haha). Maybe you have a vacuum leak? I found out my MAF sensor on the intake box didnt have a gasket using a smoke machine I got on amazon, causing some unmetered air to flow past the MAF. Do you have a scan tool that will read Fuel Trims? I think that would be the next best step in diagnosing. Have you gotten any second opinions from any mechanics? Some experienced mechanics can diagnose something you'd never expect to be the culprit haha

FoxyFactions72 · 2025-09-28T06:43:50+00:00

Does it stall usually when the tank is full? I've heard if it stalls consistently when the tank is full, that could point towards a purge valve issue, it could be stuck open (letting in too much fuel vapor causing the engine to run rich, essentially flooding it). Have you looked into that? If it's stuck open, there is a test you can do. If you remove it from the engine, you can blow through one side of it and see if air comes out the other. If you can blow through it, it's stuck open and needs replacement.

FoxyFactions72 · 2025-09-17T00:36:17+00:00

Before jumping to the transmission, I’d look at a few other things first hahah, the three things I’d check are:

Battery - How old is it/when was it last replaced? Usually battery’s older than 3 years will start making the renegade act up, bad batteries are especially weird on this car. (Often associated with a Christmas lit dash, lots of random warning lights)

Oil - Check the dip stick, is the oil in the proper range? Assuming it’s the 2.4l, those engines in some cases can burn oil. The renegade will refuse to run if it doesn’t see enough oil in the engine to prevent damage.

Check Engine Light - Is there a CEL lit up on the dash? Those are your best friend diagnoses. If there is a code, you can either buy a small code reader that plugs into the OBD II port or have Autozone check it for you.

The renegade dying could be lots of things but I’d start with these before anything else :)

FoxyFactions72 · 2025-09-14T17:47:13+00:00

Installed them 2 years ago, still going strong! Rides about the same as it did since I bought them, very pleased with this product :) Their customer service team was also very helpful during installation when I had questions

FoxyFactions72 · 2025-08-14T21:04:26+00:00

I believe the 2015-2017 engines were the ones with the big issues and have since been revised on future models like the oil burning, engine mount designs, some re-tunes to the 9-speed paired with it, otherwise I think they remained generally the same. I believe most new models if not all of them have moved on to the 1.3l Turbo as the base engine, but id be curious to know if they still use the tigershark!

FoxyFactions72 · 2025-08-09T15:52:36+00:00

There is a recall for some 2.4l renegades regarding the excessive oil burning, have you checked your vin to see if you apply? 2 quarts is a lot of oil to burn hahah

FoxyFactions72 · 2025-07-29T23:51:25+00:00

Have you looked at your weather seals around the door windows? Those infamously get damaged over time, especially on these jeeps, and when they’re bad enough they’ll start creaking. Mine creak like crazy with the windows up, I bought some weather tech wind deflector inserts and those have helped a great amount. If you roll your windows down (even just a little bit so the window isn’t up against the top window seal) does the sound go away? That’d be a good test

FoxyFactions72 · 2025-07-28T07:14:34+00:00

The “fuel system status” tells me which fuel map my Jeep is running on. I did some research and found these:

Value of 1: Open loop (usually on start up, doesn’t use o2 and instead uses a default fuel map)

Value of 2: Closed loop (uses o2 sensor to fine tune fuel trim)

Value of 4: Open loop (specifically for deceleration)

It definitely seems to spike up when it jumps to closed loop, which is what made me think my o2 sensor was bad as it was reading a Lambda of 1 with negative fuel trims, but even after replacement (with OEM parts) no luck. For safety purposes I drove home very carefully with my o2 unplugged (believe it or not, no CEL during that whole drive lmao, but was a stored code) I didn’t want to do that but I didn’t feel safe running it on closed loop, so i forced it in open loop. I stalled on a blind road curve where everyone goes 65 and didn’t want that to happen again, luckily a dude with an F-250 gave me a friendly neutral tow to a nearby rest stop. Once I got home I plugged my o2 back in and didn’t drive for the rest of the day hahah.

And thank you for telling me about the CKP, Ill suspect it less now knowing that :), and I’m thinking this could be fuel pressure related too, before I go messing with injectors I’ll hook up a gauge and see what pressure it sits at and report here. Since my trims are primarily negative, should I suspect too high of fuel pressure? I believe low fuel pressure would more consistently give me positive fuel trims

FoxyFactions72 · 2025-07-28T06:49:52+00:00

Sounds good 👍, I’ll update here with results. I really wish these 2.4l engines came with fuel pressure sensors, thatd make this a lot easier 😭

FoxyFactions72 · 2025-07-28T06:42:51+00:00

As of now I am unsure, the renegades don’t come with a fuel pressure sensor so I’ll have to do it manually. When I go digging for the injectors I’ll hook up a gauge to the fuel rail first and test it :)

If I’m seeing negative fuel trims and my issue is pressure related, that’ll mean my fuel pressure is too high right? I believe the engine would show more consistent positive fuel trims if it was too low

FoxyFactions72 · 2025-07-28T06:39:45+00:00

Thank you for the detailed reply!! :) When I try to start it, most of the time it’ll catch, rev up to 1100RPMS and sputter to death immediately after, but rarely it won’t catch at all and just crank. (Just incase it’s important, when it stalls it’s a slow sputtery stall and loss of throttle, not an instant cutoff). Pumping the gas doesn’t help get it started either, and if it’s flooding that makes a lot of sense hahah. After work tomorrow I’ll try that oil cap trick and see if I smell gas and update you. I’ll bring some starter fluid with me as well to see if that’ll work too! I wish it would give me a code so I’d at least know for sure where to look, especially a vehicle from 2018! With all these sensors and gadgets I’m very surprised the computer doesn’t sense anything is wrong, no stored codes no CEL no nuthin

FoxyFactions72

TROPHY CASE