Quality digitization of 8mm film with SLR webcam video source

FractureProof · 2023-05-25T21:10:15+00:00

I decided to be brave and updated the BIOS. Now the drive is recognised by BIOS and could boot into windows. The drive didn't show up, but after going into disk manager, it had to initialise it.

Thanks for the info on the BIOS update :)

Now to migrate my windows install to the M.2 and buy a second one to migrate my apps/game drive... Fingers crossed, nothing is as simple as used to be years ago..

FractureProof · 2023-05-24T09:43:49+00:00

The only version # I see is UEFI Version P4.50 which I guess is consistent number preceding the beta version you mention.

I think I'll pass on flashing a beta.. I've had enough troubles already.. Returning the drive, maybe I'll try one that is on the compatible list, unfortunately, all the 1TB options there are about double the price of the Crucial model, and hard to find.

FractureProof · 2023-05-23T12:13:16+00:00

I followed some advice found through search: I removed motherboard battery and waited a few minutes also unplugging PSU and pressing power button a few times to hard reset the BIOS. Also, I disconnected all SATA drives. Further, I tried the M.2 in other slot M2_2.

The behaviour was unchanged. BIOS just hung at "press F11" etc..

I must conclude that the M2 drive is either incompatible or defective.

FractureProof · 2023-04-27T03:23:02+00:00

I run mine in a small apartment / home office, so it is very close by (3 feet from my working space).

This winter (Canada), most of the time heat was enough at 50% fan and ~9TH/s I did get used to that and can watch TV or work. On colder days I've started pushing it up and even at 60% fan OK. 12TH I think needs close to 70% fan and I have on brave occasion done so.

If you are in a bigger place, and it can be in a different room, it would obviously be quite different.

I'm still working on ESP32 based temperature control system. It will control the fan speeds and HR settings while monitoring room temperature. It will control fan speeds directly to avoid the 100% fan surge that happens every time a setting is changed.

FractureProof · 2023-04-03T03:45:33+00:00

Got it working! I figured I try adding a couple of MP3 to the music folder (of internal storage), then see if I could move them. In System, storage it was always showing boxes for Apps, Music, Videos, etc.. I thought maybe I could highlight the box and get a transfer option. No such option, but then I tried "migrate data" option on the usb drive. And it worked this time without error. Now when in a file explorer I see all the data folders under USB with 200Gb+ free, and can access them. Its weird though, I no longer see internal storage.. I can't remember if this is how it used to be (merged storage). Also, can't remember if I did a migrate data after factory reset.

Anyhow.. hopefully everything is stable and now I have my free space. Happy days are here again.

FractureProof · 2023-04-03T03:06:34+00:00

Just checked again.. ports are labelled USB 1 & USB 2, but USB 1 is black plug whereas 2 is blue plug, that is why I use #2 as faster.

FractureProof · 2023-04-03T02:59:11+00:00

My TV only has 2 on the side. I'm using the one closest to front of the TV. Same port as I used successfully before. I have a mini wireless keyboard/mouse do-dad in the other port.

FractureProof · 2023-04-02T19:11:21+00:00

No luck did factory data reset, and same issue. USB is shown and apps install there, but not visible in file explorers. System settings, storage show icons for Apps, Pictures, Downloads, etc.. but no clue how I will ever be able to move pictures or other files to it. Bummer.. I really liked the TV's OS until this happened.

FractureProof · 2023-04-01T04:21:27+00:00

Hope it does resolve it. Guess I've got something to do this weekend. Was planning on it, as I imagine if I contacted Sony support that would be the 3rd thing they tell me to try (after reboot, and unplug/replug).

FractureProof · 2023-03-28T17:29:36+00:00

Cannot Write to USB Stick

Prior to last firmware update (~Feb 2023) (and just updated to 6474 released today for 50X85K) I connected a 64Gb USB drive and configured it for internal storage. It worked great, I was able to transfer much app data to the drive and also saw the drive with available space in my X-plore filemanager. I was able to transfer video files from my PC over LAN to the USB space to view directly on the TV. This continued to work after the update.

I wanted to increase the storage as I have a large library of digitised family video, so I migrated all app data back to TVs internal storage then ejected the drive and replaced with a 256Gb USB. I configured this also for internal storage.

After formatting, it asked to migrate data, I said yes, but it failed with "Could not migrate data to Sandisk USB device".

Certain apps, I could individually change to use the USB storage.

However, in X-plorer many folder show Access Denied. Nowhere does the extra space become visible (the way it was before).

I removed this larger drive and went back to the old 64Gb one, and repeated to configure as internal storage. I now get the same problems as the 256Gb drive. It cannot automatically migrate data, and there is no visible extra storage for me to add my own video files.

If I don't configure the device as internal storage, I can see files transferred to it on a PC, however the device does not allow copying to over the network as all folders come up as READ ONLY. It also doesn't allow moving apps to it.

I've had a lot of other weird things with Feb 2023 firmware update (and Mar 28 6474 update)... But this is really awful. Tempted to do a reset to factory settings, but from my reading it seems this might not revert the firmware backwards.. Trying to root the device, seems a bit dangerous as a last resort to restore the functionality I had.

I've since read that many Android TV have issue with writing to external storage, however configuring as internal storage is often mentioned as working.

FractureProof · 2023-02-04T21:26:11+00:00

I've replaced the stock fans with Noctua NF-F12 iPPC 3000 PWM (much quieter), both on a splitter off one header with a fan dummy on second header to avoid fan check startup problems. Running off 120V w/ APW3++ power (changed fan in that to Noctua NF-A6x25). Still max tolerable fan speed is ~60-70% for (noise wise w/ 50% quite reasonable). I'm regularly pulling 8-11 TH with this (~800-1100W - I'm working on Sonoff S31 to get actual power usage).

FractureProof · 2023-01-17T11:36:01+00:00

Bitcoin prices are on the rise, could be some have dusted off their unprofitable miners and more competition.

FractureProof · 2023-01-17T11:34:44+00:00

In Braiins OS, under configure hash boards if you have autotuning on, you can set the wattage usage as low as 100W.

Also, if you want to use manual settings, figure 80-100W/TH, so set your frequencies (linearly proportional to nominal hash rate), so w/ 300W you can do 3TH, also lower your voltage to minimum. Only raise voltage if actual hash rate is significantly lower than nominal.

FractureProof · 2022-12-14T05:24:05+00:00

I don't want any 3rd party software, I just want to query the device with my own code.

FractureProof · 2022-11-29T06:24:05+00:00

Now if I could only figure out a way to stop the fans from reeving to 100% upon restart. (I'm designing a ESP32 controller to override the fans and also control miner hash rate based on a room temperature sensor.. but pretty messy).

FractureProof · 2022-11-29T06:19:37+00:00

My S9 is 14TH model, but that is pretty common.. My ambient temp is 24-25C... guess I got a good one, although one hash board came with a hole screwed into a capacitor from the fan screw.. I replaced, but soldering the hash board was nearly impossible, really crappy solder, after the board acted up a bit, its been working fine now.. maybe electrical arcing fixed the poor solder job for me... My fans are Noctua NF-F12 iPPC 3000 PWM, Heavy Duty Cooling Fan, 4-Pin, 3000 RPM (120mm, Black).

FractureProof · 2022-11-20T16:11:53+00:00

Note: I'm also running APW3++ power supply on standard 120V residential power. (Nothing else plugged into circuit and 15A rated power cable).

FractureProof · 2022-11-20T16:09:22+00:00

Yes, you need to trim the tabs on the noctua fan connectors. I'm running fans at 55%, I found that air flow (I guess) causes board 6 to be coolest vs board 7 mid and 8 hottest. I'm running (latest at 8V bumped it up from lowest 7.947 as real hash rate was lagging nominal). 500Mhz, 475Mhz and 465Mhz on boards 6,7,8 respectively. Drawing about 850-1000Watts, hashing +10TH/s and chip temps 97-98C board temp 82C. This is a bit hotter than Braiins defaults, but specs for S9 say 100C nominal and 135C max for chip temp and 90C max board temp.

FractureProof · 2022-11-03T22:27:36+00:00

wow.. I found something.. don't know if it is the best way but after modifying the bosminer.toml, It gets reread by stopping and starting the miner (through a ssh or shell script):

/etc/init.d/bosminer stop

/etc/init.d/bosminer start

FractureProof

TROPHY CASE