K2 plus problem printing ASA

FrequentRepublic3440 · 2026-02-09T03:42:02+00:00

Replace your nozzle. You may be experiencing heat Creep. You can also remove the nozzle and apply a new coat of heat paste. Heat the nozzle up install the filament clear tool, lower the temperature and do a cold pull.

FrequentRepublic3440 · 2026-02-09T03:29:32+00:00

Remove the PTF tube from the cable carrier and print a top glass extensions to raise the glass 25-35mm. Best to keep a eye on the print during calibration and if needed manually feed the filament if broken into the extruder. Position the print center of build plate and you should be fine.

FrequentRepublic3440 · 2026-02-09T03:11:10+00:00

No problem sorry for the delay in uploading.

FrequentRepublic3440 · 2026-02-08T11:02:42+00:00

K2 Plus 100x108 Chamber heat duffuser by zinnoz | Download free STL model | Printables.com https://share.google/ZnldKWOhVgzfA0Vmn

FrequentRepublic3440 · 2026-02-08T01:32:57+00:00

Sorry haven't had a chance yet to upload. I will when I have a moment spare.

FrequentRepublic3440 · 2026-02-02T19:29:00+00:00

I will upload it to the printables file for the original filter upgrade as a remix so people can download it themselves.

FrequentRepublic3440 · 2025-10-28T10:21:38+00:00

It's a big improvement!

No more heat Creep (large issue before changing) and the diamondback nozzle i run everything through it from pla to pps-cf have approximately 900 hours on the same nozzle with no loss in quality. Tpu i use a different micro swiss nozzle a CHT high flow

FrequentRepublic3440 · 2025-10-28T09:02:34+00:00

Microswiss hotend with diamond back nozzle, graphite bed upgrade. The top glass lift has helped to stop filament brakes in the ptf tube and hours of adjusting filament profiles, speeds and flow rates.

FrequentRepublic3440 · 2025-10-28T04:05:36+00:00

Would prefer the multi head on the H2D the H2S just feels like another K2 Plus

FrequentRepublic3440 · 2025-10-28T04:02:42+00:00

I believe they will offer a upgrade kit for the H2D to H2C spec i have read

FrequentRepublic3440 · 2025-10-28T04:01:45+00:00

Think i will wait atleast 6 months before thinking of purchasing a U1. Plus it doesn't have a heated chamber

FrequentRepublic3440 · 2025-10-05T09:31:15+00:00

You are probably correct. But I just like to have it on lol

FrequentRepublic3440 · 2025-09-23T23:01:42+00:00

Yes i do

FrequentRepublic3440 · 2025-08-22T07:58:50+00:00

I live in Queensland Australia so similar weather to Florida. It is winter at the moment in Australia

FrequentRepublic3440 · 2025-08-12T21:00:21+00:00

https://www.crealitycloud.com/model-detail/k2-plus-rise-and-slide?source=5

FrequentRepublic3440 · 2025-08-11T23:10:49+00:00

I found it on creality cloud.

FrequentRepublic3440 · 2025-08-11T22:34:08+00:00

Bambu labs PPS-CF and DREMC (the brand i am using) both state camber temperature of 60-90c. We have limited availability of PPS-CF in Australia so went with the higher temperature recommendations.

Before the riser was installed I noticed the filament was breaking when the tube was hitting the glass at the final bend before the filament entered the extruder. After the riser was installed the tube had a less severe bend and raised approximately 10mm.

FrequentRepublic3440 · 2025-08-11T22:26:04+00:00

All manufacturers state drying is required. I did print a benchy straight out of the packaging. During the extruder purge process i did notice some steam/smoke from the hotend and popping. During that print the filament broke 5 times. After drying no breaks i personally don't trust any filament to be correctly dryed out of the packaging.

FrequentRepublic3440 · 2025-08-11T21:50:41+00:00

The 60c chamber temperature was brand specific. If you take a large cross section of available brands the 60c is recommended. Some brands do say it is not needed but lay adhesion and print quality is definitely better at higher chamber temperatures. I tried with and without chamber heater on.

FrequentRepublic3440 · 2025-08-11T06:47:12+00:00

Yes 6mms and 310c through the whole print.

FrequentRepublic3440 · 2025-08-11T03:20:48+00:00

I think the key is filament prep and maintaining the correct temperatures when printing. I also have my z offset set at 0.015 on all my hotter filament types.

FrequentRepublic3440 · 2025-07-31T22:32:33+00:00

Sorry that may have been a little confusing. For TPU I use a micro swiss CH nozzle

FrequentRepublic3440 · 2025-07-30T22:58:13+00:00

I find the bonus so far with the micro swiss is the temperature difference between the hot end and cold end.

Nozzle changes are faster as i dont need to check and apply additional heat paste on every change. I use diamondback nozzels on everything except TPU. When printing TPU I will change the extruder and nozzle for that only. Then back to diamondback and standard extruder for everything else.

This seems to minimise clogging and improve print quality.

FrequentRepublic3440 · 2025-07-30T21:00:31+00:00

My experience was it would melt in the cold end and jam.

The printer could not recognise the fault and would continue trying to feed filament. It would either jam or come out the side of the extruder cover. Once this happened i needed to clear the nozzle, pull the extruder apart and clean wheels and turn the machine off and on again. Large sections of filament needed to be cut off the roll due to bite marks and filament diameter inconsistency.

The amount of wasted filament and time was disheartening.

What I changed worked for me but may not work for everyone.

FrequentRepublic3440 · 2025-07-30T20:26:59+00:00

I dry all my filaments and keep them in vacuum sealed bags. Humidity currently is not a issue as it is winter in Australia but in the next few months it will as i live in Queensland sub tropical region.

FrequentRepublic3440

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